Leveler hydraulic fluid query

[Bat Dude]

Hi all,

We had a leveler collapse when the supporting "Lego" block apparently slipped in the loose gravel after auto leveling.

REV RV sent a replacement that arrived the next day and we were also lucky a resident mobile mechanic was living at the Flagstaff KOA.


Apparently the drivers side front wheel was lifted off the ground during leveling a bit on the side the jack shaft bent and collapsed.


Not much fluid was lost but wanted to see what was used to top up the reservoir. Apparently this is ATF fluid as long as it is not the Ford type which will destroy the seals.

I also discovered that if there is creaking/popping it is suggested that "anti-stiction" oil be added.

Anybody have any experience with this? We do have creaking-popping when parked for longer periods of time form various jacks when moving about our coach.


I will order some fluid when we are parked for the next 2 months in Rodeo, NM but wondering about the additional oil.


Bat Dude

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

If there is a popping noise in a Lippert Leveling system, Lippert has approved adding a quart of anti-stiction
fluid. Approved fluids are listed by brand name and fluid characteristics below:
1. Torco RFF Grade 15 (Fig. 1)
2. Maxima Fork Oil Grade 15 (Fig. 2)
3. Caterpillar Hydraulic Oil Additive 1U-9891 (Fig. 3)
For maximum results in the shortest amount of time, please follow the preparation and procedure exactly
as written below. Failure to follow the preparation and procedure may result in delayed resolution of the
audible disturbance.

[Ray,IN]

Your HH leveling system identifies an alternate for the HWH oil. Systems differ, some OK Dextron III, some don't. For instance my manual OK's type A ATF.
If you want to avoid any problems just buy HWH brand system oil. NEVER use hydraulic jack oil!
The only time my HWH jacks make noise is on concrete. Since the jack brackets have a slight angle to the outside, the foot must slide when lifting the MH as a result.

[NXR]

Sounds like you've already done the homework. Here is Lippert's bulletin on fluids: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002088.pdf

The popping can be fixed by adding anti-stiction fluid per Lippert's bulletin: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002091.pdf

But you never said WHO made your jacks system. Is it Lippert (LCI), HWH, or who?

For us, if we extend the jacks more than normal we can hear the popping. But we never use auto level anymore because that seems to really extend the jacks plus it lifts the coach higher than desired when there is no need. We always use manual leveling now. No popping and no tires off the ground, ever. As you found out, that can turn our badly.

Ray

[astrnmrtom]

Just be sure to follow the proper procedure when topping off to prevent overfilling. My jack system uses the "Jack(s) Down" alarm as a fluid level indicator. To get the proper fluid level in the reservoir, my system requires one jack to be extended 6" at which point the alarm should sound. Fluid is either added or removed, till the alarm activates at this point. You system may be different.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by NXR

Sounds like you've already done the homework. Here is Lippert's bulletin on fluids: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0002088.pdf

The popping can be fixed by adding anti-stiction fluid per Lippert's bulletin: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002091.pdf

But you never said WHO made your jacks system. Is it Lippert (LCI), HWH, or who?

For us, if we extend the jacks more than normal we can hear the popping. But we never use auto level anymore because that seems to really extend the jacks plus it lifts the coach higher than desired when there is no need. We always use manual leveling now. No popping and no tires off the ground, ever. As you found out, that can turn our badly.

Ray

Ray, over-extension of HWH leveling system may be corrected. Download the leveling sensor adjustment procedure, it is accurate and easy to follow. The pivot bolt is what determines final height, back it out a bit, then re-adjust level with screws A & B.

What happens is; the main mounting/adjustment screws are screwed in too far.
I thought that was silly, what difference could the amount of spring compression make, but that caused the distance from the ground auto-leveling problem.
It doesn't take much backing out of the screws to cause the coach to level nearer the ground.


The 625 system leveling sensor is more complicated.


EDIT: I just realized you guys have the Lippert system and I addressed the HWH system, sorry.

[Dodge Guy]

Just did all the hoses on our 2012 Georgetown, 3 slides and all jacks. The system takes Dexron/Mercon III.

[Bat Dude]

Hi guys,


Tnx for replies. Sorry had Lippert included in my first draft then lost the @$#%^ thing before it was sent so retyped and forgot to note the system.


Appreciate all the feed back. Also while at the last KOA where the failure occurred I purchased an additional set of leveling blocks for the wheels. Our older ones are beginning to deform from the coach weight.


Here at Rusty's in Rodeo NM sites are really level so no issues.


Need to work more on manual leveling.


Cheers,

[NXR]

I use Manual leveling exclusively.

Even after calibrating our 2020 Georgetown GT5 jacks I did not like how Auto Level really jerks the coach around. It seems to "split the difference" on each adjustment and that results in the coach being higher than we like (less weight and less tire footprint on the ground). What I do now:

1. Turn on the panel and push Manual.

2. Using your level of choice, see whether the front is the lowest or the rear is the lowest.

I use the LevelMatePRO system. I also use the Android app named Bubble Level by Gamma Play as a double check. I just set the phone on the kitchen counter between the sink and the stove top. Apparently the later iPhones have such a level app built in somewhere.

CAUTION: If the rear is lowest, that is a warning that the jacks may lift the rear coach tires off the ground, the tires where the parking brake is and where the transmission Park is. Bad things will happen if you allow that, especially if there is any wind or rain. Closely evaluate whether repositioning the coach or driving each rear tire up on blocks is a better alternative. HINT: Yes, it is.

3. Push and hold the button for whichever end is lowest. Raise that end up until the coach is now either level front-to-rear or that end is a touch higher. I make it a touch higher because the next step will raise the other end a bit.

4. Push and hold the button for the other end until you just feel the coach move.

5. Walk outside to assure all four jack feet are on the ground and no tires are close to coming off the ground, especially the rears where the parking brake is.

6. Now level left-to-right and re-check that no tires are close to coming off the ground.

7. Turn the leveling panel off.

In Auto mode, if the panel is properly calibrated, the green LCI light will be solid green when level. In Manual mode (on ours), if the panel is properly calibrated, the green LCI light will be flashing green when level.

I always double-check with the the Bubble Level app. I can feel if the coach is much more than 0.5 degrees off-level, so I try to keep it within a half-degree both front-rear and especially left-right. I'll usually try to keep the front a bit high so rain water runs off the rear instead of the front.

NOTE: The jacks always move in pairs to avoid twisting the frame. That's also why there is only a Retract All function; to avoid twisting the frame.

LITTLE KNOWN FACT: When you are in Manual mode, the Retract All button does NOT perform a full retract. It just retracts all four jacks while you have your finger on the button. You may be able to make a minor correction this way.

NOTE: Lifting the front too high will also make the bottom entry step a lot higher. Many of us carry a large stepstool for those situations.

NOTE: Remember that your holding tank dumps are on the driver side. If you are higher on the driver side than the passenger side, even a bit, you cannot fully drain the tanks so they may fill faster than expected. That's because the holding tanks are far longer than they are high.

NOTE: With the LevelMatePRO system, it seems that as long as 4" or less is needed before extending the jacks, I can use the jacks without needing any blocks. FWIW, I do have RV SnapPads installed on all of my jack feet to give them a bigger footprint and to protect the flimsy metal used for the jack feet from bending. The RV SnapPads do add 1" to the bottom, so they're sort of like having a 1" block under each jack all the time.

FWIW,

Ray

[NXR]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

EDIT: I just realized you guys have the Lippert system and I addressed the HWH system, sorry.

No need to apologize. I tend to file tidbits away even when they do not apply right now. Thanks for taking the time to write that.

Ray