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Old 08-11-2021, 09:42 PM   #15
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I also cut some 2x12s various lengths so I could put them under the tires. I used redwood, but the boards kept splitting from uneven ground. I am planning to make some more, but screw on some plywood to prevent the splitting. Is there a better way?
Plywood will be much less likely to split. 2x8, 2x10, 2x12 will all split. DF, oak, mahogany, cocobolo, maple, redwood, ash, birch, you name it, it will split. If you’re dead set on using dimensional lumber, attach a same size piece of horse stall mat to the bottom side.
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Old 08-16-2021, 02:24 PM   #16
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10" cut square 2x10's with a 1/2" 10"x10" square piece of plywood glued down and screwed to it. That helps keeps the 2x10" from splitting.
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Old 08-16-2021, 02:53 PM   #17
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If you park long term (I.e. seasonal site) and need blocking, I would avoid wood. You will find the bottom of the blocks full of termites when you get ready to leave. My comment based on experience.
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Old 08-16-2021, 03:06 PM   #18
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Whether you can raise the front wheels off the ground will be determined by who made what.
On my '02 Dutch Star/Spartan I found:
Newmar said it was OK.
Spartan said it was OK
Reyco Granning said it was OK
HWH said it was OK.
Koni said it was OK.
I did it for 6 months at a time for 13 years with no trouble but I went the extra mile to assure it was OK.
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Old 08-16-2021, 03:07 PM   #19
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If you use ground contact 2X ‘s. No termites and no spilling.
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Old 08-16-2021, 03:08 PM   #20
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If you use ground contact 2X ‘s. No termites and no spilling.


Supposed to say no splitting
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Old 08-16-2021, 04:26 PM   #21
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I am thinking oak, hard maple or pressure treated 2x12. Should hold up better than redwood for sure.
Something to keep in mind is a pressure treated piece of lumber adds no strength to the board. Yes, it will resist rotting but will not be any stronger than an untreated piece of lumber. Most if not all the pressure treated lumber available around my area is pine. I glue and screw plywood to all my jack base blocking with the grain run 90 deg. of each piece.
I try to park where I am as level as possible but there can always be variances. One example is the site I have each year at a NASCAR race. When I back in the right side of my coach is 4 1/2" lower than the left side. I built three ramps five feet long with two risers I can drive up onto which will level my coach. After I'm parked I stack 12" X 12" blocks under the jacks and shim them with 1 1/4" blocks. My front jacks are do not move independently but my rears do. As I jack the coach up I'm careful to do it in a manner where I'm not going to twist the frame or chassis anymore than necessary. There is no rush. We are going to be there for a few days. I take the jacks up only enough to take the rock out of the coach when walking around inside. There is still major weight on the tires and suspension. I see others in the same situation I start with and they have tires and wheels dangling off the ground. I can only cringe thinking what unseen damage can occur.
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Old 08-16-2021, 04:46 PM   #22
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Going on 5 years fulltiming in a 33,000# GVWR DP. I have tried just about everything on the many dispersed, dry camping sites we like with soft dirt, sand and gravel surfaces. I spent a lot of time and money on 2" x 12" boards only to have to use them for firewood after they split. Had pretty good results with Hosspads but my jacks, especially the front one on a 13,000# GAWR RVA II 3 jack system, punch through the 1 1/2" thick rubber pads on soft or soggy ground. To their credit the company sent me replacements but they have to be paired with 2 layers of 3/4" marine grade plywood to prevent punch through.
My best results have been using Hosspads under yellow Camco Curved Levelers. I added about a foot long loop of reflective plastic mooring line to the small end of each leveler to prevent the leveler from sliding away from the tire as you drive up on it. It's a common problem on pavement. The rubber of the Hosspads cushions the levelers from damage from rocks and gravel and also helps keep the levelers from sliding away from the tire.
Where I'm camped now in a beautiful USFS campground in the Rockies the site slopes downhill on the passenger side. I have one Hosspad under a Camco leveler under the passenger steer tire. I also have a leveler on top of a Hosspad under each rear dually on the passenger side. With a little practice I am usually able to climb up the levelers on the first try coming very close to level where I only use the jacks to make very fine adjustments using the rolling marble on the counter test to find perfect level in all directions without spotters. The jacks are usually deployed only to stabilize the coach.
The great thing about the Camco levelers is they are rated for a 30,000# weight. I have used Hosspads and levelers under all 4 rear tires supporting the 20,000# GAWR rear axle when the rear of the site is low and a Hosspad and leveler under both steer tires when the front end is low. The levelers look like new after a quick spray of water.
The diameter of my 275/70R/22.5 tires is 37" which I thought might be too big but it has been no problem.
https://bsrminc.com/product/hosspad-mega/
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Old 08-16-2021, 06:39 PM   #23
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Welcome.

Blocks: 2x12 with a 2x4 at the end for a chock. I carry 8 for the rear or front. Mainly used for the rear if it need to be jacked where the tire would come off the ground. 2 - 6x6x14" use under the jacks if I have a tall lift needed. 4 - 14"x14"x2" hard plastic/fiber for under the jacks on soft surface.

My rear jacks are 10T each and my front's are 8T each. I use them as jacks and stabilizers.
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Old 08-25-2021, 05:44 PM   #24
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I actually have 3 10 count bags of the orange Lynx Levelers. Their website says they are rated to 40,000 pounds! I called thinking that was the rating for 1 block, but they insist the rating is good up to 5 high as long as you stack like a pyramid. Bottom line, I am just going to use these when needed. I'll obviously never need to go 5 high with full weight on them. However, they work perfectly for parking the coach per Freightliner instructions. 5 high under the front leveling jacks and 4 high under the rears. Dump the air, and the Lynx's keep some weight off the tires with the jacks fully retracted.
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Old 08-25-2021, 09:11 PM   #25
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I've got the Lynx Levelers as well. Twenty year warranty, made in the USA, and rated for 40k!
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:08 PM   #26
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Surprising response from Freightliner - the shocks limit the distance from the frame to the axle - not the air bags. You should be able to hang your front axle all day long - just think what happens when you drive down the road - the shocks are keeping the axle and frame together - not the airbags.

Gang - please correct me if I'm wrong (won't be the last time).
Freightliner is adamant about this during the Camp Freightliner classes. Their primary concern is that when the wheels are off the ground, the airbags can unseat from their mount.
This has been discussed many times in this forum so there’s no need to rehash it in this thread, but Freightliner’s position is that the front wheels should always be supported.
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Old 08-25-2021, 10:28 PM   #27
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Here is a link to FL's s "storage best practices" (page 2). Idea is to get some weight off the tires, but I can see that this would help keep the airbags from getting mashed. That was not my intention, but I do see the benefit. Also, I think I read in my manual that you can do like I did and put blocks under the retracted leveling jacks rather than jack stands under the frame.

https://www.fcccrv.com/wp-content/up...-Checklist.pdf
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Old 03-30-2022, 08:30 PM   #28
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What are you using in situations where the leveling system would lift wheels off the ground? Are the orange "Lego" blocks strong enough? Thanks!
I'm new to RVing, but have just purchased these https://www.outriggerpads.com/produc...d-12-x-12-x-2/
They are substantial and come with a lifetime warranty. I don't see the need to put anything under my tires. From my research, leaving your front tires off the ground is OK. If your rear tires are being lifted off the ground you may want to try manually leveling your rig so that doesn't happen.
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