Quote:
Originally Posted by jimemeone
Newbie, and I have seen many combinations of wood and plastic pads being used to level. So one question is, is it better to build up the pads so that you don't extend the jacks a lot or just say 3" of pads. Sometimes when I retract the jacks they come up nice and smooth and other times it sounds like the mh might have moved a little and I hear a binding type retraction. Also do I level side to side first and then front to back/ do I retract front first or back first?
Thanks in advance for all responses.
Jim & Diane 98' HRE 37'
|
Jim,
If "Fyrflie" didn't answer the way he did, I'd have said the same exact thing, almost word for word. Very good answer. About the only part of his answer I might comment on is:
" My MH only applies the parking brake to the driveline/rear wheels".
My response to that is not to dismay his statement but, simply to kind of, clarify the fact that, ALL motor homes, trucks, cars, etc. apply the parking brake(s) to ONLY the rear wheels. Now, on some motor homes, namely many gas ones, the chassis supplier set up the parking brake on the drive line, not the rear wheels. It does the same thing, it stops the rear wheels from turning, only from a different point. No biggie.
Now, you'll get many responses to your question/statements. I too am one that NEVER, EVER raises the front wheels in order to achieve a level coach. I carry a small lumber yard with us all the time specifically for leveling. As I approach a site, I observe just what's going to be needed for leveling. Sometimes, in nice parks, the site(s) are pretty darn nice so, one touch of a button and, the coach does all the work leveling itself.
But, that's not always the case. Many times I've needed to bring out the big guns (leveling ramps, blocks etc.) to drive on so that, I achieve about 98-99% level with the tires and wheels. Then, I add blocks to the jacks so they don't extend very far to do the "fine tuning" and stabilization.
That way, when it's all said and done, I've got 10 points of combination leveling/stabilization in contact with the ground. And, no one particular component, i.e. tires, wheels, suspension, jack system, is handling all the ENTIRE task of leveling. To some, that's way too much "work". To me, it's all natural. I just simply do it without thinking about it.
As for which plane of direction to level first. Well, if I recall, my automatic operation of my leveling system levels side-to-side first, then, end-to-end. Good luck.
Scott
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrflie
Generally speaking, you should level the low/downhill side first. Then use the other levelers to finish the job.
Always use levelers in pairs. I.e. Left side up, right side up, front up, etc.
This reduces the chassis from twisting.
I prefer to extend my levelers only enough to level and stabilize the vehicle. This method also keeps all wheels on the ground for more stabilization.
My MH only applies the parking brake to the driveline/rear wheels. So you can imagine what could happen when the rear wheels are lifted off the ground. :eek
In extreme circumstances, I have built up a pad for my leveler to sit on but then you have to determine if your entry step is going to be too high off the ground. Sometimes it's easier to find a different place to park.
My levelers have a large foot pad already, so usually do not need anything under them. The larger the pad, the Better the load is spread out.
There are numerous variations and opinions related to vehicle stabilization.
Just remember, the higher the vehicle is raised in the air, the less stable it becomes.
|
Fyrflie,
Outstanding answer. You're probably very similar to me in that, you don't really consider your procedure any form of work or pain in the a$$. You simply know what you need to do, in order to accomplish two things. One, get it level and two, protect the coach from excessive strain on any particular component(s).
Scott
Linear Mode
