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Old 06-28-2020, 05:43 PM   #1
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Leveling System Not Working

Need some help. I have a 2008 American Eagle. It has a Valid Manufacturing pad by the driver, and HWH jacks. The jacks stopped operating. 3 of the 4 are 1/2 way down and will not go up or down. Pad will not go to auto leveling, defaults to manual. Travel mode has no effect on jacks. Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 06-28-2020, 09:34 PM   #2
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Are they electric or hydraulic? Do they have springs, are they on the outside of each jack?
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Old 06-28-2020, 11:15 PM   #3
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A little more info needed. Do you have a light on the panel showing that you have electric? Have you checked that you are not low on hydraulic fluid? Does the system make any sounds?
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Old 06-29-2020, 05:58 AM   #4
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Getting them working is of course the main goal, but in the meantime know that they can be manually retracted so you're not stuck where you happen to be. Find the hydraulic pump and manifold. There will be four circular solenoid-operated valves attached to the manifold. At the end of each, opposite the manifold, is a manual release of some kind. Some use a 1/4" wrench to release the valve, and some use a lever. Your owner's manual should have the details, and in some cases the wrench you might need is built into the filler plug for the reservoir.


Somewhere is a fuse or breaker that protects the electronics and control board. Try to find it, and verify that it's not blown (fuse) or reset it (breaker).


Finally, AZPETE on this forum works for HWH and a quick search will yield his contact information. Others have found him very, very helpful.
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Old 06-29-2020, 07:36 AM   #5
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Contact Paul at AZPETE on the Irv2 forum. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He is a Commercial Member and has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a message.

He has helped others on this forum and I am sure he can help you.
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Old 06-29-2020, 08:59 AM   #6
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You need to reboot the system. Disconnect all sources of power to the coach including the house and chassis batteries. Wait a couple of minutes and reconnect. Make sure the coach is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Your ignition switch should either be in the ACC position or the run position (depends on how it is wired) before you try again.
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:07 AM   #7
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There is a main 40 amp fuse on the pump that powers the control module, the release solenoids, etc. If they won't release and retract the fuse may be blown. Had the same thing happen last trip out.
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:04 AM   #8
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Assuming you're set up as required....engine running (high idle), parking brake set, etc....turn on the power to the Valid and reset it by pushing and holding it down for 10 seconds. If AZPETE cannot help or you can't access him, call Valid, they are very helpful.
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Old 07-02-2020, 01:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt Dan View Post
There is a main 40 amp fuse on the pump that powers the control module, the release solenoids, etc. If they won't release and retract the fuse may be blown. Had the same thing happen last trip out.
Ours has a 150 amp bussman fuse. Replaced it, and the pump ran for about 2 seconds before fuse blew. Turns out it is a bad motor. Bypassed the fuse and ran the motor for a second. It sounded like a box of rocks.

Now to locate a motor.

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Old 07-02-2020, 01:43 PM   #10
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If yours is like mine on a Freightliner same HWH auto jacks. The motor is near the engine as it runs the hydric lines. If they are AUTO JACKS the reset is the bottom button hold in for 10-sec and it will go into an auto-reset all the way down and back up. SO make sure your on level grounds when you try this.

Good Luck
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Old 07-03-2020, 12:35 PM   #11
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Here is a tip, that cost me $200 to get from a RV repair shop.
My HWH jacks would do the same thing. He told me to wipe a very small amount of WD-40 on a paper towel and wipe the jacks light,y with it. As soon as I did that they worked like a dream. So for the many yrs after that every two weeks or month during camping season I would do it. They worked great.
One stupid Rv Repair shop wanted to do a $5,000 replacement of the jacks.
Haa,haaa!
WD-40
Try it, you'll like it
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Old 07-03-2020, 12:51 PM   #12
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WD-40 is not considered a lubricant but I believe a jack manufacturer suggest using it occasionally to clean off crud from the ram shafts. Followed by their recommended lubricant...often ATF. I don't recall a brand of jacks that only suggests WD-40 but that's not to say one of them didn't for one of their jack models.

In my limited experience, there's no 'set' lubricant that you should use on your rams UNLESS spec'ed by the jack manufacturer. That's what folks should try to go by, whatever the users guide says. If I remember correctly, my HWH & Power Gear jacks both recommended wiping the jack rams down with a clean dry cloth followed by a wipe down with an ATF soaked shop rag.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:07 PM   #13
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Leveling Jacks Not Returning

Two weeks ago after returning from a 4-day weekend at an RV Resort, both my jacks and slides failed to function. This happened after placing my rig in our barn and following the opening of the rear slide to access the wardrobe closet. I ended up with a stuck rear slide partially out. No way was I now going to be able to get the rig out of the barn!

Following my backing the rig (2005 Winnebago 39K Journey) into the barn, and encountering the rear slide problem, I observed hydraulic fluid on the concrete pavement outside the barn where it had been parked. My rig hydraulic system is a HWH 325 series. The hydraulic system reservoir, pump and solenoids can be accessed under the front entry steps. After accessing the components under the step, I found the hydraulic reservoir to be low and added one quart of Dextron automatic transmission fluid. This did not enable either the jacks or slides to function, but after attempting to operate the system, I now observed the cause of the leak, which was one of the 4-check valve 5/8" nuts on the top of the manifold block, was leaking. Removing the 5/8" check valve nut, showed a broken O-ring. After replacing the O-ring the leak stopped, but the slide and jacks still did not work.

I subsequently called Chuck Stuart at Sturat's Service, (Elkhart, Indiana) who I had been informed was a knowledgeable repair person for the HWH systems. Over the phone, he guided me through a procedure to test the system, which also allowed me to return the rear bedroom slide. He concluded I needed to replace the manifold shuttle valve, which he sent me, along with O-rings for the 4-check valves. After I replaced these items the system worked just like it had for the preceding 15-years. His cost for parts and shipping and handling was $112.

Sturat's Service phone No. 1-800-826-6267 or 574-262-0225

Hope this helps your situation

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Old 07-07-2020, 09:54 AM   #14
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this may be too late for your situation, but maybe it will help others.
the hwh shuttle valve is stuck. go to the hwh jack manifold. with engine off, so you can hear, loosen one of the four check valve brass caps on top of the manifold. open it slightly, not too far, only until some fluid escapes. listen for a click. tighten the cap, and go back inside. turn the ign key on, or to acc. hit store, nothing else.
the jacks should retract.
at that point, if the jacks retract, do not use the hwh system until you have replaced the shuttle valve. you will also have to replace the o ring on the check valve cap. it will probably be cut by the pressure of the fluid released. part # RAP7964, oring can be bought from ace hdwe.
please call me, i can help.
602 549 3638
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i do not solicit part sales, or service work on this system.
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