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Old 12-04-2024, 09:43 AM   #1
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Lithium Batteries

I drugged my feet for a long time on Lithium batteries,Until my 4 LifeLine AGM 8D batteries started failing, Almost 10 years old (Not Bad) I did not want to spend 10k on batteries either so I just installed Li Time 280 amp hr batteries, Not done yet I'm waiting for some new 4/0 cables, I removed the LifeLines and Damn they are heavy 165Lbs x4 660 Lbs new batteries 59Lbs x 4 236 I like that part, Got compartment all cleaned up and new batteries installed now just waiting for cables, I will have to reset my 2 Magnum 2812 Inverters and my Victron 712 BMV , I did some reserch and Li Time use to be Ampere Time and I read a lot of good reviews and watched some positive videos, Lot of sail boat owners use them My friend put them in his bus 3 plus years ago and so far so good.I don't know some of my pics are side ways
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Old 12-04-2024, 10:53 AM   #2
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What have you done to limit your alternator output to that large battery bank. Unlike AGMs, lithiums will accept all of the output your system will supply and that could drastically shorten it's life.
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Old 12-04-2024, 05:44 PM   #3
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.I don't know some of my pics are side ways
It's due to the antiquated software the forum's owner's are using. Not your fault.
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Old 12-04-2024, 09:33 PM   #4
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I am still waiting for one report of an exploding alternator due to lithium batteries.
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Old 12-04-2024, 11:51 PM   #5
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What have you done to limit your alternator output to that large battery bank. Unlike AGMs, lithiums will accept all of the output your system will supply and that could drastically shorten it's life.
I did the BIM upgrade on mine, took about 45 minutes - 50% of which was drilling through the very thick stock on the inverter baggage box to mount the new BIM.

Wiring between the 2017 era BIRD I had and the new BIM was pretty close to straight-forward, I think I had 2 wires I was in debate on and had to follow them back to determine for certain what i was moving. 1 or 2 were not used, and I just left them connected to the old BIRD, and left it mounted as an immediate hot spare if ever needed.

Now- the standing charge of the chassis batteries (even when plugged in) leaves a little to be desired - plugged in will keep them just below full - I think that is an outcome of the lower floating voltage spec on my lithium battery bank. If I tick it up .1 or .2 volts in the inverter/charger, the chassis batts will go to full, but I leave it at 'lithium spec'.

When not connected, the BIM doesn't maintain the chassis batteries from the genny or lithium bank very well - and after 3 days on some desert BLM land I'll get low-voltage warnings on engine start. I saw others with the same problem on YouTube and one had a great idea that I implemented. Cheap solar controllers are just +12 volts to 12 volt charge management, instead of solar panels on the roof - just use a solar controller connected to the lithium bank and out to the chassis. I installed 25 amp over-current protection in front of the 17'ish amp charger, and and use the 20 amp switch/fuse as a way to turn it on or off - and I only use it when I'll be boondocking for a few days.

Works great - better than a trickle charger, but doesn't create a big draw on the lithium bank - only about 200 watts (at full stream) out of a 400 amp-hour lithium bank and gives quite a bit of peace of mind.

Leaving it on when starting the engine - that immediately pops the breaker I noticed, so I only use it when standing still.
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Old 12-05-2024, 08:15 AM   #6
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Leaving it on when starting the engine - that immediately pops the breaker I noticed, so I only use it when standing still.
You could install a relay that disconnects that extra connection when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. It will eliminate the breaker tripping when you forget to disconnect or otherwise accommodate the added circuit.
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Old 12-05-2024, 11:54 PM   #7
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You could install a relay that disconnects that extra connection when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. It will eliminate the breaker tripping when you forget to disconnect or otherwise accommodate the added circuit.
That's a really good idea.. the BIM has an ignition wire on it, and it's not far away.

I like having the feature, though - our 12-volt chassis moves the stairs, slides (3 of them in our case) and most of the interior lighting- I've always thought it was odd that the coach batteries are not wired to that stuff, and we have a safety-lockout that prevents the slides from moving if the engine is running so we can't use the alternator power to do it. So, if I'm a little low on chassis juice in the morning, I'm idling the engine or something for 30 minutes to recharge the batteries to close the slide rooms (even though I have boatloads of power left in the coach side). The coach batts do charge through the BIM, but it is SLOW...

if we do a night at a Harvest Host or something like that, I've found the hack to be pretty useful, I just flip it on, and no need to worry about it.
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Old 12-06-2024, 09:18 AM   #8
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All the guys on Bus Forum that converted which is most of them,I am the straggler,The Lithium's are house only, not tied to chassis batteries at all generator has it's own Gel-cell for starting Gen, The house batteries are charged by 2 Mannum 2812 inverters that can be set for LifePO4 batteries, Set to Custom and set all parameters either plugged in or Gen running, Driving down the road it has a DN50 375 amp alternator with a adjustable regulator, most say leave it alone Johnathan Fine set his up to 14.3v. The Lithium charge at 14.2 to 14.6 The Victron BMV 712 I will also have to reset for accurate info. Everyone that I have spoke to has positive things to say about converting, One of the biggest is at 50 percent of battery charge it still has 13.1v the AGM's or lead acid are almost dead at 50 percent and 4,000 charge cycles verses 500 wow much better and these LIFEPO4 Lithium iron are safer then earlier Lithium Batteries, Getting close Time will tell.
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Old 12-06-2024, 09:54 AM   #9
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I was using this as a replacement for the diode isolator on our Trek.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

I now use it as a switchable connection from the freshly installed LIFPO house system to the "maintenance free" LA starting battery with an indicator switch on the dash. I have a relay installed to only allow connection when the engine is off. This does a decent job of float charging the starting battery when not charging the LIFPO batts and is controllable.

I also have a 40amp DC to DC charger controlled by a remote trigger switch on the dash with an indicator light for using the alternator.

The 40amp shore charger is also switchable.

300 AHs lithium along with 360 watts of portable solar wired 2s3p into a 100/30 Smartsolar Victron charge controller.
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Old 12-14-2024, 09:51 AM   #10
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Latest up date on Installing 4 8D size LifePO4 Lithium batteries, Last Saturday the 4/0 cables showed up I charged up the 4 batteries separately to 100 percent using the Magnum inverters, I connected batteries in Parallel then let balance till Sunday then connected to coach, Victron shows 14.1v at 100 percent turned on every light ran Aqua Hot for 2.5 hours and all interior heat and bay heat, Next day I did the same all lights and Aqua Hot and all heat for another 2.5 hours, Thursday I inverted the full size Whirlpool refrigerator for 13 hours and on Victron BMV now shows 77 percent but the cool thing is the volts is 13.21v Wow I'm amazed, Still have not charged the batteries 1120 amp hours total and it used 285.8 AH, The Lifeline AGM batteries could have never or even come close to that, When they shipped batteries they came 50 percent charge at 13.1v a AGM or lead acid would be dead at 50 percent
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