Lithium install LI-BIM confusion?!

[polterigest]

Going to install 4 SOK Lifepo4 batteries in my 2003 DSDP, it currently has the B.I.R.D. and the disconnect relay. I really would like to keep the disconnect relay function.
My confusion starts with Newmar's mess of wiring, what to move to the LI-BIM?
What do I leave on the relay solenoid?
This is NOT as straight forward as I hoped!

Just in case I do have a Magnum invertor that can do CC/CV and have those specs. I will be changing that out for victron hopefully this winter along with a solar install.

[twinboat]

Take the cables off the large solenoid and put them on the LI-BIM.

Ground the BIM and move the ign wire from the BIRD to the BIM.

[twinboat]

Some other info.

Ignition wire on BIRD.

House battery cable. Other large one is chassis battery.

Carefully, pull shore cord and remove cables from batteries before diving in.

Mark the cables and take pictures.

[polterigest]

Ok thanks seems a little clearer. Would I leave the other wires on the solenoid so it will still function? Or remove both?

I need to sit in front and study it. Glad someone understands this voodoo

[polterigest]

One other question.

The signal wire on the Li-BIM, I see in the wiring diagram the coach battery and relay wire are connected when the dash boost button is depressed. How could I retain this?

[tomgauger]

According to Will Prowse, the LiFePo4 has it's own BMS and my take is that it's pretty much plug & play. The caveat is the charge voltage range on your inverter/charger.
I'm planing the same changeout and I'm very curious how your s works out.

[hoosierrun]

I can't effectively use a BIM on my LiFePo4 upgrade because the voltage from the vehicle alternator does not get high enough to fully charge the batteries more than 80 to 85%. I ended up going to a DC to DC converter to get the 14.4 VDC required. I just wanted to mention that before you get too far along with your project. A lot will depend on the starter battery and alternator and that may be related to the age of the vehicle. Newer vehicles with AGM starter batteries have a voltage regulator that reduces the alternator voltage from 14.5 to 13.8 after about 20 to 30 minutes. That is not enough to charge the lithiums to full capacity. If you have solar, and the controller has a lithium profile, you will be fine. Otherwise, the best way to check is to run your vehicle for 30 minutes, don't shut it off, and check the voltage across the starter battery. If it is 14.4 (or even 14.2), you are good to go. If it is 13.8, you will drive all day and never get the lithiums above 85%. I have a Victron battery monitor shunt and it has a 2nd input for the vehicle starter battery, so I can check the voltage while driving (actually with wife driving). Just remember, a BIM does not boost the voltage, it merely connects the engine starter battery with the house battery at timed intervals. You can't push current in to a lithium battery without enough voltage. I am speaking from personal experience.

[polterigest]

Ok I am slow as molasses sometimes, but finally got around to doing this. It was much easier then I thought, took about 1/2 hour to do the whole job , maybe good planning helped.

Not sure about the charging part yet, wont have a change to drive anywhere for another month. Checked my alternator and its a 14v 160amp, not really worried about charging the Lifepo4 to 100% anyway, I will know more once I get the invertor changed out. I may have to get a DC-DC but I will wait until I see how the victron shakes out.

[polterigest]

Originally Posted by tomgauger

According to Will Prowse, the LiFePo4 has it's own BMS and my take is that it's pretty much plug & play. The caveat is the charge voltage range on your inverter/charger.
I'm planing the same changeout and I'm very curious how your s works out.

Long tiime but finally took a trip where we used the batteries and then drove. My alternator puts out 14V and is 160 amps and I have two 100ah SOK batteries. We left and they were at 100% SOC or 14.4V, used them that night - tv, lights, phones, computers, fridge and water heater (they are using 12v for ignition), down to 14.2V. So for fun I used the kettle and toaster and got down to 13.9V. We left and drove 8 hours got back up to 14.2V when we stopped that night.

So for my set up looks like everything is keeping up. But I am going to get my solar installed soon and will see about a DC-DC anyway.

[Wiweeds]

How about if you used a time delay relay in place of the Bird to simulate the action of the LI-BM (on for 15 min. off for 20 min.)(like this) to protect the alternator.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[filterbiz]

Originally Posted by polterigest

One other question.

The signal wire on the Li-BIM, I see in the wiring diagram the coach battery and relay wire are connected when the dash boost button is depressed. How could I retain this?

I have libim and lithium
Call precision circuits and talk to Danny send he knows exactly what you need to move.
Works flawlessly and lithium is the only way to go

[filterbiz]

Originally Posted by polterigest

Ok I am slow as molasses sometimes, but finally got around to doing this. It was much easier then I thought, took about 1/2 hour to do the whole job , maybe good planning helped.

Not sure about the charging part yet, wont have a change to drive anywhere for another month. Checked my alternator and its a 14v 160amp, not really worried about charging the Lifepo4 to 100% anyway, I will know more once I get the invertor changed out. I may have to get a DC-DC but I will wait until I see how the victron shakes out.

Can you hear it connect if you push the batt boost? It’s pretty loud. If not I have the fix