Locked out

[RELHUB]

Also once I got in the MH the only way to open the door was to dismantle the lockset completely from the inside. It was a BIG .... PIA

[TripleEEE]

Sheesh, after reading the lock failure issues, I'm glad I have a drivers side door that I have a hidden key for. Probably the only time i would use it.

[Hpyhilm]

I have had problems with the door handle lock severals times on other units, now I only lock the deadbolt lock.

[Donlock]

The cast deadlatch is the one that breaks. The door flecks when traveling.
I always use the paddle lock it has a short stout tail peace.
Don

[TRV1]

Strangely enough, we have not had this problem since our last post on 7/29/19, then as if by magic, a notification about this issue appeared on our email. Then our problem which matches the original OP reappeared within 1 day. Coincidence, magic, or just a higher power with sense of humor?
This was a latch issue not a lock problem.
Very grateful for these posts and hope this helps someone. We have left a window unlocked to gain access, just in case this problem were to recur. We were able to crawl in the window, and open the door using the inside handle. Our problem has been the outer paddle pull handle not causing the striker latch to release. The issue is the lever from the outer paddle handle rides underneath the release mechanism that is attached to the inner handle.
By the way, using silicone spray to lube the latch made the problem worse since the paddle handle lever had less grip and slid underneath the release mechanism more easily. The fix: disassemble both halves of the latch assembly. Put it together when out of the door so that the problem can be observed. Slightly bend the lever up so that it will make contact with the release mechanism being careful not to damage the paddle hinge. I used a c clamp on the hinge pin to isolate and protect it and a vice grip to bend the lever. Use grease to lubricate the assembly. A 7/16 adjustment nut is accessed through door edge will provide “fine tuning” of the mechanism. Hope this helps someone.

[jnwhite]

Well, it happened to me today (right now!!!). Door is NOT locked, handle moves, but does not unlatch. Same as the original poster.

The Good and Bad -

Good: It is in my yard and next to the garage with all my tools.

Bad: A/C, Radio and lights are on, no 5 yr olds around.

Turning off the A/C breaker and the battery disconnect at the engine does NOT turn off the coach battery latched relay. I guess I can disconnect a coach battery to drop the relay.

Then I can start trying all the suggestions in this thread.

Jay

[jnwhite]

No luck so far and I don't want to risk an expensive double paned window by drilling the frame. The lock unit is dead anyhow. Anyone know the right place to drill the Trimark POS to be able to move the latch back?


Jay

[Donlock]

Did you push on door and lift on bottom while pulling latch handle .
We’re both locks open positions?
If all that is ok then drill a hole rivet size hole parallel to latch bolt ,use ice pick
To draw latch back.
Don wish I was there to help

[triplewide]

I had one fail when I was outside the coach. Dead bolt worked OK, the latch bolt broke in to two pieces. Drilled out the keyway for the latch, no help. I just kept drilling holes, removed the paddle (think I used a grinder or Dremel tool), kept drilling. Eventually was able to access the broken bolt and retract it with an awl. As I recall it would have been best to drill a hole closer to the door edge of the latch but not into the frame of the door. You may be able to peek into the crack of the door with a flashlight and estimate where the bolt lays horizontally.


As for me, I just obliterated the entire latch.


One tip is be careful when removing the latch mechanism from the door. I dropped a spacer plate down into the door frame. Rather than listen to it rattle constantly when driving I removed the entire door, turned it upside down and shook the loose part out. Turned an aggravating job into fully qualified pain in the rear.

[DRVMON]

For the future, you can leave a window unlocked that you can get through. For now, see if there are any windows that are hinged on the outside and remove the screws or bolts and take out the window. This worked for me on a 2000 Diplomat.

[jnwhite]

I will try Donlock's small hole method first. If that doesn't work I have a high speed die grinder and will grind until I can free it like Triplewide.

I have been replacing all the blinds and had all the windows open the two days prior to being locked out, but shut and locked them all good and turned on the A/C the day the latch failed. Such is the way my luck goes. If I had a duck it would drown.

Will report back later on results.

Thanks to all for ideas,
Jay

[ChasL]

Look behind outside door handle for a plastic plug. Remove and insert screw driver to open. This applies to certain brand locks. I have seen this on some very exspensive Motor Homes. Please don't ask me how I found out about this...the hard way.

[Shallow]

Jay,

Best of luck. I had to use a cutting wheel to carve up the latch exterior to expose the failing portion of the latch. Then manipulate the latch to release the door.

I ordered my new door lock/latch assembly from Fleetwood directly because I wasn’t sure I would order the correct one from online resources. It wasn’t cheap but came with keys and delivered within a week.

If I was confident in part number and such, I would have bought it online.

Let us know how it works out.

Hal

[TRV1]

Not sure what coach you have But if there is a sliding window such as in the Fleetwood, one trick to get in without destroying anything may be to use a long Allen wrench to slip in between the two sections of the window and rotate it up to real ease the window latch. Still have to crawl in ( or find someone who can)
Hope this helps.