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Old 05-14-2022, 11:12 AM   #15
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Thanks everyone. I ended up ripping the entire floor out from the back of the bedroom all the way up to the front of the motorhome.. Just got a little more carpet to take care of and the front slide carpet to remove properly. I'm going full vinyl. Started laying in the back already; got half the bedroom done.

I'm going to focus my attention on fixing the slide gaskets. Had an RV tech guy that's been helping me pro bono with a few things come out and look at it all; and his advice was similar that he would not start cutting the floor out and would let it dry out and try some kind of sealer on top of it and lay new vinyl down. He also thinks this leak is coming from the rear slide gasket.

Another thing to mention, while ripping the carpet up and vinyl in the bathroom I discovered a way bigger leak. My entire bathroom floor was soaking wet ; I had my dehumidifier on for the past few days drying it out and sprayed with cleaning vinegar to hopefully control some of the mold. I'll buy an actual mold killer tomorrow and spray it on.

Essentially both slide gaskets rear and front (in my kitchen / dining table area) are leaking by the looks of it. The RV Tech looked at it immediately and pointed out that there is also slight delamination going on around the wall of the front slide out which is too convenient and sort of showed me the path he believed the water was taking. It all makes perfect sense; and it doesn't resemble a pipe burst at all.

The previous owner was very anal about winterization and kept stressing the importance of doing it properly to me when I was viewing / buying the MH.
He also mentioned that he had stored it every year except for last year as he had health issues to deal with and basically missed his spot in storage and couldn't find anywhere else to go last minute.

Does anybody know of a good product to apply on top of the semi-soft (dry) OSB flooring in my bathroom area so that it can hopefully become more 'sturdy' or hard before I apply new flooring down?
I've used West Systems 2-part epoxy to fix rotted wood - on houses, boats for over 30 years. All wood must to be dried first. Their products, support, and instruction material are great.

On mold, I just spray bleach. Had some mold in our 100+ year old house crawl space. Sprayed it and I've never had it come back, 25+ years ago.

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Old 05-19-2022, 02:43 PM   #16
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Thanks for the advice everybody. I am definitely going to have to just bite the bullet and get rid of the damaged subfloor and figure out a way to put a new piece in.. I still have not quite figured out how to do that.. It sounds like an "easier said then done" kind of situation however. I say this because of the way the OSB subflooring is laid in my RV. It appears theres a diagonal cut as shown in the photos in the kitchen where the blackest parts / weakest part of the flooring is. This leads me to believe there is a total of 2-3 pieces of subfloor (from factory) that I'm going to be cutting into and trying to make 'sturdy' again with new subfloor.

I could be entirely wrong, I'm no carpenter by any means. I may end up epoxying the wood thats nearest to my slide with West epoxy as recommended by DRM901 and others as I do have quite a bit of this epoxy left from a previous project. However the other areas just seem a bit too unstable for me to feel comfortable with epoxying and covering. The bathroom itself it all sorts of wonky, my foot isn't falling through but the wood is swelled to hell so the only way I'll get away with a nice looking flooring is to put new plyboard down I would imagine.
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Old 05-19-2022, 09:38 PM   #17
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Well I finally worked up the courage to rip this rotten floor up.. came up way easier then anticipated.. literally pulled most up just by hand.

This is what I’m seeing. The rotted floor in the hallway connecting to the kitchen area appears to have the furnace vents (metal) under it. Appears the OSB subfloor was glued to it. I see pin holes and some rust on the vent.

In the bathroom looks like the OSB subfloor is glued directly on a layer of foam.

My question now is.. am I able to remove all of this rotted crappy wood and go with a higher quality plywood 3/4” and simply glue it back on? Or do I have to screw it down? I’ve yet to find any screws. I didn’t rip too much up yet though.

Also.. do I absolutely have to take up the layer of foam? Surprisingly what I have exposed so far isn’t wet at all.
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Old 05-20-2022, 09:43 AM   #18
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Ideally, screw & glue. Foam can stay as long as it isn't wet.
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Old 05-20-2022, 10:56 AM   #19
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I started demolition. I can’t see any screw besides one that goes into the aluminum piece right next to the bathroom vanity. Im dreading the thought of taking the vanity up because I have no idea how I’m going to replace that wood in there with all the plumbing.. I really don’t want to get into plumbing.

All the foam is dry but that’s not to say water didn’t get under it
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Old 05-21-2022, 06:40 AM   #20
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Can you get to the bottom of the foam? If so, I would check it.

If not, I had to replace the floor in our ski boat and had a similar question. So, I dug out a corner of the foam, since the bottom of my foam was the hull. Since it was a low point, I figured if no water was pooled there it was ok to keep the foam.

No water, and 10 years later all is still good.
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Old 05-21-2022, 07:27 AM   #21
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I can, I tried cutting a piece about 7”x7” from the center of the floor and I definitely cut down to the wood but having a hard time pulling the piece of foam out after I cut it. I’m no carpenter as I mentioned in other posts, so I have absolutely no idea if this foam, once ripped up, will cause me huge issues if I just forcefully rip it up.

I was even thinking since I had some west epoxy left if I could maybe just drill some holes down into the wood underneath the foam and inject some epoxy in there after drying for a few days with a dehumidifier.
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Old 05-21-2022, 07:53 AM   #22
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OSB (oriented strand board) loses its integrity once it gets wet. It will swell and then the wood pieces separate.
I had a leak just inside the door on our 32 year old Class A Foretravel coach.
After trying almost everything to stop water leaking around the door seals I decided to rip out the crappy shag carpet on the steps. It looked like it had been in a dog coop for years.
I was amazed when I found a 3/4" thick piece of marine plywood sitting in the puddle under the carpet!! The wood is back in there and is just fine!! I drilled drain holes under the plywood so any water that did get in the step well could drain out.
If I were attempting your repairs I would just go ahead and replace as much of the OSB that is subject to water damage and is in high traffic areas, with a good grade of marine plywood.
Once and done is my motto.
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Old 05-21-2022, 09:54 AM   #23
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OSB (oriented strand board) loses its integrity once it gets wet. It will swell and then the wood pieces separate.
I had a leak just inside the door on our 32 year old Class A Foretravel coach.
After trying almost everything to stop water leaking around the door seals I decided to rip out the crappy shag carpet on the steps. It looked like it had been in a dog coop for years.
I was amazed when I found a 3/4" thick piece of marine plywood sitting in the puddle under the carpet!! The wood is back in there and is just fine!! I drilled drain holes under the plywood so any water that did get in the step well could drain out.
If I were attempting your repairs I would just go ahead and replace as much of the OSB that is subject to water damage and is in high traffic areas, with a good grade of marine plywood.
Once and done is my motto.
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately marine grade plywood seems to be very difficult to locate here in Nova Scotia but I’ll keep looking
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Old 05-21-2022, 11:14 AM   #24
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I'd just use regular plywood coated with West Systems epoxy, or similar 2-part marine epoxy. In boating or outside, I'd do 2 coats, but 1 coat should be ok here. Just paint or roll it on.

Heating the wood will improve the absorption. Just put it in the sun for a while, then move to the shade to put the epoxy on.
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:33 PM   #25
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Thanks, I thought about doing this as I have a bunch of west system epoxy leftover from my delamination repair. Glad to know I wasn’t crazy thinking about going ahead with this idea!
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Old 05-30-2022, 06:16 PM   #26
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I use a wood hardener product on any soft wood, its a polymer in alcohol that penetrates deep into the wood and gives it amazing strength, plus a good waterproofing.
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