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Old 08-06-2018, 08:52 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manwithtools View Post
Hey Scott,
You need to check out today's generation of Lithium Ion Brushless motor cordless tools. Their power and battery life is nothing short of amazing. Have you seen or used a Milwaukee 1/2" cordless Fuel 18 impact? I've got over 20 of the Milwaukee M18 tools, everything from a 10" compound miter saw to a mag drill. Last week we drilled 32 - 10.25mm holes in 1/2" steel plate with the mag drill on the same 5 amp hour battery with no pilot hole, just a 10.25mm (7/16") twist bit.

I've not done it, but I'd wager 40 lug nuts on a DP motor home would be no sweat for that impact. Most mechanics are changing to the cordless tools for a variety of reasons. Almost all skilled trades are moving that way too.

Picture of most of my collection attached, I'm a believer.

I wont pick up a corded or air powered tool unless I'm absolutely forced to. I will go out of my way to get the cordless tool over the corded one every time. My whole production electrical shop with 13 full time folks has almost no corded tools these days - including lights, knock-out sets and vacuum cleaners - just not worth the hassle / danger of dragging cords around. We are even getting ready to try battery powered heat guns.

Edit: Did you happen to notice my username?
Manwithtools,
Yep, I kind-a noticed your user name. A long, long time ago, BEFORE STAR WARS, I had a few battery powered tools. Well, obviously, back in the dark ages, those kinds of battery powered tools were weak, the batteries didn't last at all and, when you needed a replacement battery, it was cheaper to buy an whole new tool.

So, I veered away from cordless tools for that very reason. Recently, as in just about 6 months ago, I picked up a two-pack of Porter Cable 20V tools. One, a 1/4" hex drive impact and the other, a 1/2" drill/driver. I gotta say, I'm impressed with what they can do and how long the batteries last. So impressed that, I ran out just a couple of weeks ago and picked up a Porter cable 6.5" cordless saw and ordered another 20V battery from Amazon.

Now, those tools are for dinking around the house on various smaller projects. Based on just how well they work and what I've put them up against, It wouldn't surprise me that say, a 1/2" 24V or maybe 40V unit might not have any issues breaking 450 ft. lb. lug nuts loose. But, while that kind of unit may do the job quite easily, it comes at a fairly high price. And, with the frequency that I pull a wheel off this coach which, is no more than say, twice a year, maybe, I really can't justify that kind of cost, vs the infrequency of use.

If one does quite a bit of work on their coach where the wheels are needed to be more frequently removed and replaced in say a years time, that's where the cost vs benefit becomes way closer together. So, for now, I think I'll just keep my old hand crank torque multiplier hanging around. And, my used K D 3/4" drive torque wrench for torquing them down.
Scott
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Old 08-06-2018, 11:36 PM   #100
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New toys to work on new house.
First major job completed, King Pins, Tie rod ends, Front Brakes.
That was a fun 4 Days.....

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mDRzcw6qAJ6xgPVv5
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:11 AM   #101
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Wheel change

Quote:
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Back when I was running bias ply, tube-type tires on Dayton wheels I carried all the tools I needed to do any kind of tire work. As I switched to tubeless radials, I needed to do much less tire work. When changed to Bud wheels, needed the big impact, and the truck compressor would no longer work. So for over 35 years of driving a heavy vehicles, if I was not at my tools I called somebody to bring them to me. If it was just tire work, I called somebody to bring their tools, and do the work. While I think it would be good if all drivers where smart enough figure out how to do the lift the strength is not required.
And the "lower the axle so the wheel only has to be lifted an inch or so,"
is not very smart. Most jacks you need to get under the load, and without the tire to catch the load. Why did you jack it that high to start?
Because the tire was flat!
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:02 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Manwithtools,
Yep, I kind-a noticed your user name. A long, long time ago, BEFORE STAR WARS, I had a few battery powered tools. Well, obviously, back in the dark ages, those kinds of battery powered tools were weak, the batteries didn't last at all and, when you needed a replacement battery, it was cheaper to buy an whole new tool.

So, I veered away from cordless tools for that very reason. Recently, as in just about 6 months ago, I picked up a two-pack of Porter Cable 20V tools. One, a 1/4" hex drive impact and the other, a 1/2" drill/driver. I gotta say, I'm impressed with what they can do and how long the batteries last. So impressed that, I ran out just a couple of weeks ago and picked up a Porter cable 6.5" cordless saw and ordered another 20V battery from Amazon.

Now, those tools are for dinking around the house on various smaller projects. Based on just how well they work and what I've put them up against, It wouldn't surprise me that say, a 1/2" 24V or maybe 40V unit might not have any issues breaking 450 ft. lb. lug nuts loose. But, while that kind of unit may do the job quite easily, it comes at a fairly high price. And, with the frequency that I pull a wheel off this coach which, is no more than say, twice a year, maybe, I really can't justify that kind of cost, vs the infrequency of use.

If one does quite a bit of work on their coach where the wheels are needed to be more frequently removed and replaced in say a years time, that's where the cost vs benefit becomes way closer together. So, for now, I think I'll just keep my old hand crank torque multiplier hanging around. And, my used K D 3/4" drive torque wrench for torquing them down.
Scott
Vert good video on you-tube, on the heavy duty uses for this impact wrench.

Terry
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:35 PM   #103
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Back when I worked for a utility company we had to R&R big tire wheel combinations in the field as needed, just get the height right and a flat shovel will put it on, or a little lube on the back side of a "men at work" sign will slide it right on.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:23 AM   #104
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Smile

Got the job done nicely with my new collection of "Heavy Duty" tools.
went with the 3/4" air impact from Harbor Freight.
$100 -25% off coupon = $75.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pnBWUJisaqo5Tu8R7

When putting back together, borrowed a 3/4 drive Snap On from a friend that runs a truck shop.

Got one of these to add to my collection for future use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for getting tires back on, I had it jacked up high enough to work on comfortably, so I used a floor jack to raise them up & slide them on.

Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it.

Dave
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:16 PM   #105
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I'm sure to get flamed with this....but very effective to remove front wheel lug nutsClick image for larger version

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Old 08-18-2018, 06:39 PM   #106
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I'm sure to get flamed with this....but very effective to remove front wheel lug nutsAttachment 215572
Not quite a flame, but Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey they taught us back in grade school shop class. Looks like the picture is showing tightening the lugs.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:46 PM   #107
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Not quite a flame, but Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey they taught us back in grade school shop class. Looks like the picture is showing tightening the lugs.
You beat me to it. But, I'm sure he meant to show the wheel turned the other way which, with the Jack on the front side, would be "loosening" the lug nuts. It would be just a lot of work to get the jack just right where things would work efficiently.
Scott
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:48 PM   #108
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Ha-ha... Nope, your both wrong. I was removing them
They didn't teach Budd wheels in your shop class?
The left side has LEFT hand threaded lug nuts on this coach & they are stud piloted.
And the set up is quick and easy. Loosen them about a 1/4 turn, then cheapo harbor freight electric impact spun them off.

.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigd9 View Post
Not quite a flame, but Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey they taught us back in grade school shop class. Looks like the picture is showing tightening the lugs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
You beat me to it. But, I'm sure he meant to show the wheel turned the other way which, with the Jack on the front side, would be "loosening" the lug nuts. It would be just a lot of work to get the jack just right where things would work efficiently.
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Old 08-18-2018, 06:55 PM   #109
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But, if it'll help, here's the right side. I just did this today. (Replacing ball joints)

Click image for larger version

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Old 08-18-2018, 07:41 PM   #110
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...teach Budd wheels in your shop class?
Budd wheels? That must have been way before my time, and grade school was back in the mid 50's!. Wait is that another name for the metric system? You know that funny way to measure everything? I'll bet that was what you were doing. You were metricitizing the lug nuts. No wonder I didn't understand what you were doing.

You embarrassed me into Googling Budd Wheels. Interesting stuff. I feel semi informed now. Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:07 PM   #111
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Actually it brings to mind how important it is to know what type of wheel fastener is on your coach. Older like my 1999 can have stud pilot wheels, using right and left hand threaded studs/lugs...the wheels and lug nuts are beveled to hold the wheel tight and centered.... The weight of the vehicle is on the wheel studs.

The car you drive has this type, except for the left hand threads.

.... however in the early 2000's most all chassis changed to "Hub Pilot" wheels. The hub is shaped to center the wheel. The lug nuts are flat flange and use a attached washer that doesn't spin against wheel when tightened. The same nut holds both rear dual wheels and brake drum onto hub. Very simple, and less wheel stress at lug area as all lug does is hold wheel onto vehicle.....and no left hand threaded

The Budd dual wheels are where it gets freaky... there's inner and outer lug nuts..so 20 on each drive wheel end...it takes a special 13/16" square socket to r&r the inner nut.

Wheel lug torque is so important on this set up.


I travel with a few RH and LH inner and outer nuts and 1" drive Budd impact socket just in case I get a tire issue and tire man ain't got one...
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:24 PM   #112
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Here's a random pic I got off the net, the inner nut has the square head....

One would install the inner wheel, torque to specs, usually 500 ft.lbs...the install outer wheel and torque the outer nuts to 500 as well...Click image for larger version

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