Community Forums

Luv2go · 03-24-2018, 08:09 PM

Progressive makes both hard wired and plug in units. I have a plug in Surge Guard and installed it at the end of a 9' Dryer pigtail I used in place of the long power cord. The pigtail happens to reach my 50A outlet in the RV tent where the coach is stored. This allows me to lock up the plug-in Surge Guard in the compartment when I need to. Note to get under and overvoltage protection you need their EMS units, not the SSP's.

powercat_ras · 03-24-2018, 08:26 PM

In the real world, the L1 and L2 sides of a RV with a 50 Amp Shore Cable rarely if ever draw over 30 Amps each. This is why many RVs with a 50 Amp Service Panel and 50 Amp Shore Cable only have a 7,000 Watt Generator capable of output of 30 Amps each on L1 and L2, I would just size for the 3% voltage drop at 50 Amps and actual load will be less and actual real world voltage drop will be less.

If what you plan to ever park at your site has or might have the 12,500 Watt Generator then the RV maker designed the RV to actually draw 50 A each on both L1 and L2 in a real world worst case, and sized the generator to be able to deliver 50 A x 2. In that case IMHO you should oversize, incremental cost is quite small compared to the price you paid for your very deluxe RV.

mmorgan · 03-25-2018, 03:10 PM

Don’t worry about an 80 foot run for 50 amp service.

I just ran a 310 foot line to power up a new 50 amp circuit, used #4 copper that is working great.

I just went out to the coach and with no load I’m seeing 122 volts on each leg. I turned on all three air-conditioners, residential fridge stays on all the time and the electric water heater for a total draw of 36 amps......voltage dropped to 120 on each leg.

If I added Microwave and electric dryer would probably drop another one or two volts and still be well above safe minimum voltage levels.

Scottybdivin · 03-25-2018, 03:19 PM

I agree with previous post. Mine is about 95', which is at or beyond the limit. No problems running 2 or 3 AC's. I was was glad I ran 50A to it last summer when the AC went out in the house. We slept in the RV for almost a week while we had a new one installed. Otherwise it would have benn off to an RV Park or Motel.

Crasher · 03-25-2018, 04:16 PM

I would bury wire to the RV site and put your 50 amp recep. box there. Might cost a bit more to do, but would be the best for years to come. We've buried thousands of miles of direct burial wire in the business over the years. I suspect a local electrician will have a mini-sneaker to make the job easy.

HamboneTHW · 03-25-2018, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crasher

I would bury wire to the RV site and put your 50 amp recep. box there. Might cost a bit more to do, but would be the best for years to come. We've buried thousands of miles of direct burial wire in the business over the years. I suspect a local electrician will have a mini-sneaker to make the job easy.

Crasher,

I've had plenty of experience. While it sucks, I really don't mind trenching. The issue for me is that this isn't our forever home. Just don't see the point. The extra 50' of extension cord might also come in handy down the road. A hardwired receptacle with hundreds of dollars in wire and a lot of trenching won't do much for me in a house that won't be ours in 3 years. The Navy sees it fit that we move often.

MisterT · 03-25-2018, 04:25 PM

I've run 200' foot, no problem.

Mudfrog · 03-25-2018, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

I used to do electrical work. I'm not a fan of trenching wire and I like the traditional braided 6/3 better than the weatherproof wire, so then you're talking PVC work as well. A black extension cord temporarily won't both me. This isn't our forever home, otherwise I might look into doing that. The Navy still moves me every 2 to 3 years.

I just finished installing 30 amp service out to the MH. I'd say it took two or three days to make the plans, locate and buy the materials (receptacle, 6 awg thwn wire, conduit, grounding rod, other misc items.), rent the ditch witch, and then do the 100+ foot install. All total, a bit over $500 with me doing all the work.

You only being there for a couple of years, the cord is the way to go!

BigBillSD · 03-25-2018, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triangle Drifter

Why do you need 50amp service from house to trailer? I assume you want to chill the fridge & possibly top off the battery bank.

+1 I just plug my coach into a 20 amp circuit to get the batteries topped off and the refrigerator cold the night prior to leaving. You only need the 50 amp to run the A/C. You didn't mention living in it outside the house. I've never seen a reason to need more than 20 amp service when loading the coach or working on it at home. -Bill

Scottybdivin · 03-26-2018, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Crasher,

I've had plenty of experience. While it sucks, I really don't mind trenching. The issue for me is that this isn't our forever home. Just don't see the point. The extra 50' of extension cord might also come in handy down the road. A hardwired receptacle with hundreds of dollars in wire and a lot of trenching won't do much for me in a house that won't be ours in 3 years. The Navy sees it fit that we move often.

In that case go buy 50' of 6-4 SO cable plus male / female ends. SO cable will be more durable and easy to carry. I made one when we first started RV'ing and have used it many times..

HamboneTHW · 03-26-2018, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottybdivin

In that case go buy 50' of 6-4 SO cable plus male / female ends. SO cable will be more durable and easy to carry. I made one when we first started RV'ing and have used it many times..

Scotty,

I was definitely looking at that route, but the cheapest I've found 6/4 SO is $2.50-$3.00 a foot. So $125-$150 just for the cable then $15-$20 for each of the plug ends. Found an already fabricated cord in 6 AWG for $188 to the house with free shipping. I figured for the price difference, why not get it already assembled and done?

Luv2go · 03-26-2018, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Scotty,

I was definitely looking at that route, but the cheapest I've found 6/4 SO is $2.50-$3.00 a foot. So $125-$150 just for the cable then $15-$20 for each of the plug ends. Found an already fabricated cord in 6 AWG for $188 to the house with free shipping. I figured for the price difference, why not get it already assembled and done?

We have two 50A extension cords for the Canyon Star. One made from the shore power cord that came with the coach with a female end put on. That one is very flexible in cold temperatures. The second was purchased from one of the big RV stores for a very good price. It has a plastic jacket instead of rubber and gets very stiff in cold weather. If I could do it over I would spend the extra money and get one that is rubber like SO cord.

TXTiger · 03-26-2018, 02:37 PM

Surge Guard now has a lifetime warranty also.

Scottybdivin · 03-26-2018, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HamboneTHW

Scotty,

I was definitely looking at that route, but the cheapest I've found 6/4 SO is $2.50-$3.00 a foot. So $125-$150 just for the cable then $15-$20 for each of the plug ends. Found an already fabricated cord in 6 AWG for $188 to the house with free shipping. I figured for the price difference, why not get it already assembled and done?

I'm sure it has gone up in price in 6 years or so. I think I built mine for just over $100. I once ran mine over two chain link fences and hanging from some tree limbs when we we parked on the beach in Rotary Park beside Lake Havasu for a boat race.