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Old 06-09-2017, 06:51 AM   #15
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Another preventative / time maintenance item:

When you change the air filter, get a can of MAF sensor cleaner. Remove the MAF sensor and give it a good cleaning. (Mass Air Flow)

The MAF sensor is mounted in the air cleaner assembly

Thoughts on spark plugs:

Our vintage F53 V10 has a history of spitting spark plugs. This is generally attributed to people changing plugs and not following the procedure TO THE LETTER. (type plug, use of antisieze, torquing)

My chassis has 55k miles on it. I chose to NOT touch the plugs as they appeared to be OEM and have never been removed.

The plugs and COPs (Coil on Plug) should easily run 100k miles. I do carry a couple extra plugs and COPs as spare parts.

Exhaust manifold bolts

Look at the bolts on the exhaust manifold. You'll probably find one or two that are completely rusted off. I have one missing one that I'm keeping an eye on. Its on the drivers side all the way forward. Its not producing a leak, yet, but the bolts should be replaced. Maybe next spring I'll remove the manifolds and replace all of the bolts.

Records

I keep very good records on what I do. ALSO - I write things up, take a lot of photos, etc This is kind of a side hobby that I enjoy doing, AND, has one very big benefit. It documents what I've done so when it comes time to sell, it answers most questions a potential buyer has regarding the condition of the motorhome. I had no problem selling my ole Mirada when I upgraded to the Southwind.

Mirada web site

Southwind web site

..
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:14 AM   #16
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Look here.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/f53-p...ml#post3226173
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Old 06-11-2017, 09:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1doodadd View Post
If the first owner kept good records how many miles were on it when He sold it? How many miles did second owner put on it? And mileage on it now? Help the rest of us help you.
First owner logged 28k. Second owner logged 7k. Total of 35k. I have not put more than 500 mi on the unit. Total now about 35,500
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Old 06-12-2017, 04:29 AM   #18
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Then the second owner really did not have time to screw it up. Probably did not need to do more than an oil change to keep current. The biggest worry I would have is rust on the rotors from sitting.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:15 AM   #19
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With only 35 k I would not even consider looking at those plugs till you get to the 100000 k mark. They are famous for striping the threads. If this mechanic doesnt know that about the v10, I would be taking the mh somewhere else as it is common knowledge with rv techs and anyone who owns or owned one. The a\c they say it cheaper to run the house air than the dash air, so why spend money on that unless hes talking about the house air conditioners. I got 50000 miles out of my first set of brake pads on my f 53. Yours might be getting down a bit, depends on how it was driven, but Im guessing you a good for another 15k or so. If you want to talk maintainence, how about checking the caulking on the roof and wall seams, slide seals and toppers,and the roof condition in general. Leaks can get expensive. An ounce of prevention eh. Also, to all rv owners in general, but especially the v 10. Dont just come roaring off the highway and shut the engine off. The v 10 is famous for cracking manifolds. Let them idle out for a few minutes before shutting them off. Turbo diesels should get the same treatment, but for me all engines should. jmho
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinchgut View Post
I have a 1999 Holiday Rambler Admiral 37 ft with a Triton V10. I am the third owner. The first owner kept very good records as to what was done mechanically to the unit, as his records indicate. The unit was sold to the second owner in Oct 2008. This is when all the records stopped. The second owner did diddley squat as far as keeping any records, as to what (if anything) was done from that point on. I purchased the unit in March 2017.
My local mechanic suggested that I need to do the following, before I make any long adventures, since there are no updated records.
1)- Radiator and oil cooler flush
2)- Air conditioner pumped out, cleaned, leak checked and recharged
3)- Check brake pads, rotors, etc. and flush brake system
4)- Transmission flush
5)- Inspect rear differential
6)- Inspect/Change spark plugs (leave alone)
7)- Full service on Onboard generator (yes)
8)- Oil/ filter change
I apologize for the long list, but need y'all ( the experts ), for your input and it would be greatly appreciated.
I agree on everything on the list except not too sure on item #2 & #4.
Have only driven her about 400 miles and have not had any problems with air or transmission.
Thanks to all of you veteran RV'ers for any and all comments.
Digby
Mechanical
• Because of condensation that gets into ALL fluids and lines (especially if you live in a humid climate) and then adding to the fact that you have—no baseline—to go by of when all the fluids have been changed last, that was my 1st priority on our MH and should be yours too. So that means thoroughly flushing and replace all fluids: coolant (be sure to use the right replacement coolant - check manual for that year), brakes, power steering, engine oil (be sure to used OEM recommended filter type), tranny and differential. While they are changing the diff oil have them check and be sure the diff vent hose is clear and working properly. I would have this all done at reputable shop that has all the proper flushing equipment to ensure a thorough job. I'm particularly anal when it comes to maintenance so I also had my fuel injectors cleaned and flushed and then I maintain them by adding BG Products 44K to my gas tank at every oil change or about every 4K - 5K miles.
• Another step you can take on your radiator is go to Walmart and buy a gallon of Simple Green, pour into a pump action garden sprayer and saturate your radiator, oil cooler etc as much as possible by opening your hood and getting it in there. Let sit for about 15-30 minutes, hose off thoroughly with a hose
• Then check DOT date of all your tires on the sidewall. If more than 5 years old have them inspected and for sure watch your PSI based on your MH weight. Don't know the weight, get it weighed. A lot more can be said here about maintaining tires but you can search here for that info
• Grease the front chassis
• Leave spark plugs & coils alone
• On the A/C units - don't do what he recommended but do read this
https://axleaddict.com/rvs/How-To-Se...Conditioner-AC
• Get on a crawler, get under the chassis and look at ALL rubber hoses throughout the chassis and anything else rubber for that matter. More than likely they are hard and/or dried out. If they are cracking, replace them. If just dried out use this product to restore moisture and elasticity. This stuff is quite amazing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• While you're under the chassis, Tejay, a fella here on this forum brought up an excellent post that every FORD chassis owner needs to check. You can read it here. Read post #4
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/shoul...ml#post3548887
• Check battery water levels and also perform an Electrolyte level test using a hydrometer (also at Walmart for about $4) Batteries always seem to give people grief so knowing where you are in this dept. also will be good. Here's just one link that kinda explains this test a little more
Testing Battery State of Charge with a Hydrometer | All About Lead Acid Batteries
• Go to manufacturers website, type in VIN# and search for any recalls or service bulletins and then check your MH to see if they have be done. If they we're, they were probably done by the 1st owner during those 1st years.

Safety
• Sanitize fresh water tanks

• Change out all smoke and carbon monoxide detector batteries. Then, your propane leak detector is probably out of date too and needs replacement. It's near the floor usually around the sink/stove area. Be sure to check expiration date. Replacement can be found on Amazon.
• Check/Replace fire extinguishers

There are so many more things that should be checked but this will get your started with the most important stuff and as you said, "what should I do first". After these things have been done, now you have a good baseline, your safety stuff is up to snuff, you can tackle the other stuff you want to check/upgrade or install bling goodies for the DW.
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Old 06-13-2017, 05:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marjoa View Post
Mechanical
• Because of condensation that gets into ALL fluids and lines (especially if you live in a humid climate) and then adding to the fact that you have—no baseline—to go by of when all the fluids have been changed last, that was my 1st priority on our MH and should be yours too. So that means thoroughly flushing and replace all fluids: coolant (be sure to use the right replacement coolant - check manual for that year), brakes, power steering, engine oil (be sure to used OEM recommended filter type), tranny and differential. While they are changing the diff oil have them check and be sure the diff vent hose is clear and working properly. I would have this all done at reputable shop that has all the proper flushing equipment to ensure a thorough job. I'm particularly anal when it comes to maintenance so I also had my fuel injectors cleaned and flushed and then I maintain them by adding BG Products 44K to my gas tank at every oil change or about every 4K - 5K miles.
• Another step you can take on your radiator is go to Walmart and buy a gallon of Simple Green, pour into a pump action garden sprayer and saturate your radiator, oil cooler etc as much as possible by opening your hood and getting it in there. Let sit for about 15-30 minutes, hose off thoroughly with a hose
• Then check DOT date of all your tires on the sidewall. If more than 5 years old have them inspected and for sure watch your PSI based on your MH weight. Don't know the weight, get it weighed. A lot more can be said here about maintaining tires but you can search here for that info
• Grease the front chassis
• Leave spark plugs & coils alone
• On the A/C units - don't do what he recommended but do read this
https://axleaddict.com/rvs/How-To-Se...Conditioner-AC
• Get on a crawler, get under the chassis and look at ALL rubber hoses throughout the chassis and anything else rubber for that matter. More than likely they are hard and/or dried out. If they are cracking, replace them. If just dried out use this product to restore moisture and elasticity. This stuff is quite amazing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• While you're under the chassis, Tejay, a fella here on this forum brought up an excellent post that every FORD chassis owner needs to check. You can read it here. Read post #4
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/shoul...ml#post3548887
• Check battery water levels and also perform an Electrolyte level test using a hydrometer (also at Walmart for about $4) Batteries always seem to give people grief so knowing where you are in this dept. also will be good. Here's just one link that kinda explains this test a little more
Testing Battery State of Charge with a Hydrometer | All About Lead Acid Batteries
• Go to manufacturers website, type in VIN# and search for any recalls or service bulletins and then check your MH to see if they have be done. If they we're, they were probably done by the 1st owner during those 1st years.

Safety
• Sanitize fresh water tanks

• Change out all smoke and carbon monoxide detector batteries. Then, your propane leak detector is probably out of date too and needs replacement. It's near the floor usually around the sink/stove area. Be sure to check expiration date. Replacement can be found on Amazon.
• Check/Replace fire extinguishers

There are so many more things that should be checked but this will get your started with the most important stuff and as you said, "what should I do first". After these things have been done, now you have a good baseline, your safety stuff is up to snuff, you can tackle the other stuff you want to check/upgrade or install bling goodies for the DW.
That is all we have on these money pits is preventative maintenance if you think that you are saving money on these by not changing fluids and checking belts and all hoses your are sadly mistaken. You have to make sure every stone is untouched especially on an older coach. It is a total pain in the butt but you have to get a good base line so you have a piece of mind running down the road. There is nothing worse then sitting on the side of the road for something you could have prevented and ruined your vacation
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