Mid 90s basement compartment catch replacement question

[TT_Vert]

I have one catch that is broken and I want to replace it. However as you can see by the pics it's under the aluminum framing for the door which means that framing has to come off. (You cannot access from the back) I tried to remove the screws holding the framing but it's not budging. Perhaps they use some form of adhesive as well? Anyone ever replace these? Did you have to de-bond some type of adhesive or just remove the screws holding the framing together and use a bit of persuasion? As hard as finding parts for this is, i do NOT want to destroy this door as I'd probably have a better change finding hens teeth.


Thanks much

Dave

[Flyer15015]

If you take the center latch out, will the 2 outer catches will slip thru the hole?
If it is filled with foam, it will not and you are down to taking the frame apart.

Mike in Colorado

[TT_Vert]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

If you take the center latch out, will the 2 outer catches will slip thru the hole?
If it is filled with foam, it will not and you are down to taking the frame apart.

Mike in Colorado

Nope, there is only a very small channel in the foam for the rod. I am sure I have to remove the frame just unsure if they are just secured w/ those screws at the joints I see or not because it's not budging and I'm not too keen on forcing it. I did use a little light persuasion but forcing it isn't on my list of good ideas.

Dave

[Flyer15015]

Try pulling the bottom angle off and see if the foam is loose or bonded to the panel.
On mine the end latches are on the outside of the angle.
Maybe you could mount your new ones that way.
There should be enough room.

Mike in Colorado

[TT_Vert]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

Try pulling the bottom angle off and see if the foam is loose or bonded to the panel.
On mine the end latches are on the outside of the angle.
Maybe you could mount your new ones that way.
There should be enough room.

Mike in Colorado

I cannot mount them on the exterior there isn't enough clearance to do so. With that if I knew that the angle was just secured by the 2 screws on each end I would but it doesn't want to come off and i don't want to force it.

Dave

[mlpeloquin]

If you can get the screws out of each end of the straight, wood or hard plastic three to four inches wide against the aluminum and tap with a hammer. Working down the length should slowly move it out. Remember it may be held in place with a lot of old polish and dirt. Work both sides. Might try WD40 as well. It will dissolve the wax over time. Give it over night after spraying the length of the edge.

[TT_Vert]

Originally Posted by mlpeloquin

If you can get the screws out of each end of the straight, wood or hard plastic three to four inches wide against the aluminum and tap with a hammer. Working down the length should slowly move it out. Remember it may be held in place with a lot of old polish and dirt. Work both sides. Might try WD40 as well. It will dissolve the wax over time. Give it over night after spraying the length of the edge.

Yeah I just wanted to ensure they don't use epoxy on this atop the basic screws I see before I go pounding on it. if they used epoxy it's going to take a ton of foam out with it.

Dave

[Flyer15015]

Dave,
As a last resort, you could cut out the foam around the latch, say a 6"square, drop the latch out, install the new one and reglue the foam block back in position.
Messy, but doable.

Mike in Colorado

[TT_Vert]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

Dave,
As a last resort, you could cut out the foam around the latch, say a 6"square, drop the latch out, install the new one and reglue the foam block back in position.
Messy, but doable.

Mike in Colorado

The latches are on the sides and i'd have to cut a good 20"x4"x1" thick piece of foam out which is all sandwiched in there. And then somehow fish the new latch back in. Not something I want to try if I can get the end off which I assume I can.

Dave

[Ray,IN]

I have the same latch if yours look like this; The steel pull-rod should stay in place-held by the foam. Otherwise my method below should work. If your doors are not foam-filled, you may drill out the pop-rivets, remove the center lock and steel pull-rod from center lock to slam-latch. Then the broken slam latch just pulls out.
Reverse your actions to install the new slam-latch. Reattach pull-rod to slam-latch, pop-rivet it back into the frame, then reconnect center lock to pull-rod.

[TT_Vert]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

I have the same latch if yours look like this; The steel pull-rod should stay in place-held by the foam. Otherwise my method below should work. If your doors are not foam-filled, you may drill out the pop-rivets, remove the center lock and steel pull-rod from center lock to slam-latch. Then the broken slam latch just pulls out.
Reverse your actions to install the new slam-latch. Reattach pull-rod to slam-latch, pop-rivet it back into the frame, then reconnect center lock to pull-rod.

Am I seeing this right that you had to cut the door to access this? My doors are certainly foam filled like yours.

Dave

[Flyer15015]

Dave,
This looks like what I described.
You could use bolts instead of re riveting the new latch in.
Mike in Colorado

[TT_Vert]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

Dave,
This looks like what I described.
You could use bolts instead of re riveting the new latch in.
Mike in Colorado

I'm good w/ rivets as I have tons. I would just use rivnuts if I did this but I'll be damned if I'm cutting open the aluminum door skin for this. There is foam SANDWICHED between the basement door inner/outer skin, this isn't just foam BTW. I would be absolutely shocked if this is how they intended this to be done. I have to assume that side frame piece would (will) come off. I do see screws on either side of the miter joint in the track for this frame so I have to assume that is the SOP for this.

Dave