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Old 06-03-2018, 12:14 AM   #1
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Modifying Ducted Roof Air Units

Hello,

Just returned from a long 10 day trip camping along the Colorado River where temperatures were in the low 100's. We do this ever year and really enjoy it.

I have a 2008 Fleetwood 40x- it has a little darker colors and seems to retain the heat inside the coach. I have cut window shades using the thermal reflective sheets for the front windshield and many of the windows and we also use the awnings/window awnings and it helps to cut down inside temp.

Even with all of this, it seems like the 2 roof air units struggle to keep/maintain temp- they never shut off and really never get to the desired temperature that I have set the thermostat to.

My question- Has anyone looked at the 2 AC units and done any modifications to get better performance and help quiet them down? I was reading something on another site about replacing both intakes with 2 residential style intakes and filters which helped increase air flow throughout the coach for faster cool down and the noise dropped as well since it wasnt "choking"

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:16 AM   #2
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Suggest you clean a coils on both A/C units check your local auto parts store a coil cleaning spray. I had that problem but after cleaning itís a lot better
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:20 AM   #3
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you can build quiet covers over the air intakes that will insulate from the noise (and hang down from the ceiling) but you are not going to increase intake airflow because no matter what you build the air still has to go through the same intake hole in the unit.
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:20 AM   #4
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While there about 50 things less expensive to try first, we swapped our Dometic Brisk Airs for Atwood Air Command units and are very happy. Dometic were SO LOUD. Atwood VERY quiet. Cools better too. Supposedly less amp draw also.
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:53 AM   #5
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Remove your air and return covers and check for any obstruction in ducting. In my last motorhome I found a flap of duct tape that would partially block air passage when air kicked on. I corrected the issue and it really helped quiet things down. You may need an inspection mirror to see in some of the passages.
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Old 06-03-2018, 08:04 PM   #6
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So.....I'll give you my experience with our AC (and we live in AZ). So after complaining to the dealer about the A/C being worthless, they checked the plate between the cold air and return air at the AC (where the cover is). They taped it off as to make sure the cold isn't being sucked into the return air. It worked...... but not all that good. So after still not getting the cooling I thought it should be doing, I did a little probing myself. I took down all the vent registers and stuck my phone camera up into the ducting. What I found was kinda funny but not, the foam ducts extended the length of the ceiling, past the last vent. So I bought some foam sheets and cut them to the size of the ducts, taped them into place with some AC foil tape at the duct. Both ends of the coach. The other place where it seemed to be loosing cool air was around my roof vents. I could touch the frame work and they were quite cold! Come to find out, the rear fan opening was set up for a second A/C unit (wiring and such). So I again, cut pieces to cover the A/C duct opening at the fan. At the end of each vent I closed off around 2 to 3 ft of ducting so the air was now being directed right to the vent. We find that after closing off the extra ducting with foam and taping it closed, we now have a pretty good amount of cold air going to all of the ducts now. Made a big difference in being able to cool the entire coach.
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:18 PM   #7
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Modifying Ducted Roof Air Units

Oops, wrong forum
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:46 PM   #8
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If you RV in areas that have high humidity a dehumidifier helps. We have a 30 pint Danby with the drain going through a 1/4 inch hole in the floor. We spend a lot of time on the Texas coast with humidity 80+%. with the dehumidifier the coach humidity is 45 to 50%.
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