Mold in Diamond Shield

[scooterbob]

I am in the process of removing mine now, about 1/2 done. The main thing I have found out is the MH should be facing the sun and very warm. I used a steamer and a stiff plastic putty knife.

[Busskipper]

Link - https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/dia...al-436641.html


Originally Posted by TexasTom View Post
I spent about $200 on different solvents recommended by everyone. (Did not try uglyjuice...to expensive) And I can say that none of them worked. Goof Off (all variations), Even the expensive Cut Thru EF, etc. were all failures.

Except for Xylene. Pick up a gallon at Home Depot and pour it in to a sprayer bottle. Works wonderfully as it dissolves the glue but doesn't hurt the paint. It will however, damage plastic headlights and lenses, so be sure to tape them off.

Xylene is the ticket - don't waste your time with a lot of others, I used the orange contractors cleaner, it did little, except as a lubricant to let the blade slide - just makes it easier to strip but does little to remove the glue. I tried the sprayer but it was never really directional - ended up using a brush as a spreader, for both the Orange and the Xylene - - and it also helped with the last little bit of cleaning.

Also, I didn't go down the plastic chisel path because I didn't see the sense in spending so much time sharpening it. Use plastic razor blades instead. They work great.

I tried the chisels and that was a bust - they actually put marks in the paint and did a Crappy job. The razors were the ticket - just remember to change them often - when picking out the holder for the Plastic blades think about having something a little longer and more comfortable to hold - after 10 or 20 hours they will mess up your hands You will be putting a lot of pressure on these blades so a STRONG receiver to hold them is also critical - but a metal head could cause damage if and when a blade breaks off -


https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrape...-2-spons&psc=1

Originally Posted by Busskipper

Good advice - the longer these masks stay on the more chance they will damage the paint of Clear Coat.

Xylene is the ticket - soak the glue then scrape it off with the Sharp Plastic Razors get a pile, then pick it off with a paper towel piece and put in container. You need to get every bit of it off as Xylene is the only thing that will remove it - I then Buffed it out with a Compound and put Rejexit on last.

I had a few spots where the clear coat came off (Had been penetrated by the mold) and just put new clear coat on and wet sanded and buffed - not perfect but pretty good at 3-4 feet

Am still working on the last little bit - well last 1/4 of the job - think I will have a full week invested in this - but the two things I concluded was Razors and Xylene with Orange Cleaner as a lubricant and using the brush to contain and control the Xylene were critical. (Xylene evaporate so fast the sprayer just made to big a mess in my case, so the brush was my ticket.)

^^^^^^^^^Great Advice ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

From the other post, Picturs on page 2 -

Hope this Helps,

[scooterbob]

Does it remove the clear coat after you use exlene ?

[Busskipper]

Originally Posted by scooterbob

Does it remove the clear coat after you use exlene ?

NO!

The plastic razor will peal it off a little at a time - just makes it easier.

Best of Luck,

[falconman]

I would be interested in hearing from folks who removed the DS a year or two ago and didn’t replace it. Curious to see if the front end paint has suffered, mine has. No amount of wax could have protected it from all the chips now in the paint.

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by ernest917

$1,800 - $2,400 to remove plus an additional $2,500 - $3,000 to install new. (Recent pricing from large RV dealer in East Texas)

That's highway robbery! I had mine removed and new DS with lifetime warranty installed for $2000. And mine was a difficult removal. The older it gets the more brittle it becomes making removal very difficult as you cannot remove it in any sizable pieces. I had it done in Red Bay by the mgr of the DiamondShield contractor there.
jt

[Belgique]

Originally Posted by falconman

I would be interested in hearing from folks who removed the DS a year or two ago and didn’t replace it. Curious to see if the front end paint has suffered, mine has. No amount of wax could have protected it from all the chips now in the paint.

Ugly Shield Removal (Wayne) removed mine 2 years ago and I did not replace. About 10K miles later, including some gravel highways out west, I have zero issues with the front end

[Fiesta48]

How many of you are using good wax every 6-9 months to stop the mold problem. Mine is 6 years old. Still looks good.
Any bad places especially around the edges I cut out as soon I see them.

[gnvrvin]

Here is another thread about removal:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/dia...-352716-2.html

jt

where did you get it done and replaced for 2K?


thanks
greg

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by gnvrvin

Here is another thread about removal:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/dia...-352716-2.html

jt

where did you get it done and replaced for 2K?


thanks
greg

As I said in the previous post, I had it done in Red Bay AL. You can contact Brock Keeton at 256-483-3904. He is the Mgr of the Diamondshield group at the Tiffin plant. Nice guy. Of course, prices may have gone up since I had my Newmar done 4 years ago.
jt

[darbyjudy]

I had mine removed in Dover Florida, the cost was $400.00. I made the decision to not put it back on. I understand the longer it is on the harder it is to remove. After it was removed on mine it looks great.

[cybersaab]

Originally Posted by darbyjudy

I had mine removed in Dover Florida, the cost was $400.00. I made the decision to not put it back on. I understand the longer it is on the harder it is to remove. After it was removed on mine it looks great.

Where/who did the removal?