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Old 08-24-2022, 07:03 PM   #15
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+ one zillion for the safe-t-plus as mentioned above. It's about a boat buck - but it's the best money I have spent. Totally transformed my driving experience.
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Old 08-26-2022, 06:56 AM   #16
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I had a wandering issue on my almost new 2020 Thor Hurricane. I took it to a truck alignment shop, they said alignment was within specs but appeared as though the king pins had never been greased. All they did was grease all fittings and I drove out with a “new” coach! Wandering was gone.
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Old 08-26-2022, 07:29 AM   #17
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Weight distribution has a lot to do with handling, keep heavy items forward of the drive wheels and out of the rear end. While there is some play in the steering, where you look has more to do with drifting than anything else. Look 1/4 mile down the road and your line of travel will be much steadier than if you are looking to the sides just in front of the coach. Its well worth taking a driving class at Lazy Days or FMCA.
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Old 08-26-2022, 12:32 PM   #18
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Begin with the basic things to improve handling. Have a total alignment performed on the chassis. This aligns all 4 wheel positions to the chassis frame, not simply a "front-end alignment". The common sign of incorrect thrust angle is, steering wheel does not rest level when driving straight.
My MH was squirrelly on most highways, had a total/thrust alignment performed(rear axle was out by 3/4") and it now drives almost as easy as my Silverarado pickup.
There is another cause of poor handling, HDT's/semi-tractor trailers have a wider tire span than most MH's, when the "ruts" in old blacktop are deep the MH wants to follow one of them because the MH tires span is narrower and cannot follow both ruts.
Radial tires have more sidewall movement than bias-ply tires and are more susceptible to this "one side running a rut".
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Old 08-28-2022, 05:57 PM   #19
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Hello all,


I am new to the forum. Went form a 2011 winngebago 31 gaser to a 2013 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 31GA. A bit new to the RV world but heres my question. What can I do to upgrade the handling? Or is this a chassis PM issue? I find my rig likes to drift while towing and walk a bit in the lane. If this is a open thread already please direct me.
Check your steering alignment and linkage. I have an independent front wheel suspension in a 99 American Eagle 40 footer. I had the ball joints replaced and it improved dramatically: No more wandering in the lane.

Carlos Medica
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Aurora, OR
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Old 08-29-2022, 05:10 AM   #20
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I agree with the folks who suggested a front end alignment. My old 2003 Hurricane (F53/15.7) drove like it was a boat until I got an alignment after replacing the tires. 100% improvement.
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Old 08-30-2022, 06:45 AM   #21
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Safe-T-Plus

You should install a safe-T-Plus to see improvement. This device help me to keep my rig on road during a blowout happened. A guy at the body shop said, it help you a lot during the first second to keep it in the lane. You will not regret to buy this device.

Best regards,


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Old 08-30-2022, 07:30 AM   #22
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As an aside, my 2000 class A used to wander a bit. I was constantly making micro corrections. But now, after regular use and 5000 miles, it works great. Smooth, no more micro-corrections. Seems like using these things a lot really helps...
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Old 08-30-2022, 07:33 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by gmc1986 View Post
Hello all,


I am new to the forum. Went form a 2011 winngebago 31 gaser to a 2013 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 31GA. A bit new to the RV world but heres my question. What can I do to upgrade the handling? Or is this a chassis PM issue? I find my rig likes to drift while towing and walk a bit in the lane. If this is a open thread already please direct me.
I don't pull a toad so this might not be relevant to your situation but! I had wandering issues with my 36-foot Adventurer. There are lots of things you will be told on this forum but for me, adding "Air Lift" air bags worked like magic. My front end runs out smooth and the stability is awesome, it allows me to drive "one handed" for hundreds of miles, in fact I just drove from Pembroke NH, the Cumming GA in two days, it was a 1157-mile trip. (you're going to hear lots of stuff about this, I'm just telling you about my experience) Good luck and safe travels
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Old 08-30-2022, 11:02 AM   #24
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As an aside, my 2000 class A used to wander a bit. I was constantly making micro corrections. But now, after regular use and 5000 miles, it works great. Smooth, no more micro-corrections. Seems like using these things a lot really helps...


Before spending thousands to fix a chassis, I’d make sure the nut connecting the steering wheel and the driver’s seat is properly adjusted. Noticed this when teaching kids to drive. When they looked just past the hood, they made many small corrections. As they looked further down the road, they made fewer “corrections” and the ride became much more comfortable. The larger the vehicle, the further ahead your eyes should be focused. It also helped them immensely with anticipating stops and slowdowns.

Not saying this is the op issue, but having a focal point far ahead reduces need for corrections to try and keep straight.
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Old 08-30-2022, 11:11 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by gmc1986 View Post
Hello all,


I am new to the forum. Went form a 2011 winngebago 31 gaser to a 2013 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 31GA. A bit new to the RV world but heres my question. What can I do to upgrade the handling? Or is this a chassis PM issue? I find my rig likes to drift while towing and walk a bit in the lane. If this is a open thread already please direct me.
I would also have someone (you can do it yourself if you can climb under your rig) inspect the rear axle of you unit. Most have a torque arm that centers the axle between the frame rails. Normally attaches to the top or rear of housing and the frame rail. If the bushings in the link crack or ware, it will allow the axle to walk side to side as you travel down the road. This causes you to constantly have to correct with steering input. My Country Coach had this issue (bushing had just the least amount of cracking showing) and replacing the torque link made a HUGE difference in how stable the Coach is going down the road. Something else to at least look at.

Good luck.
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Old 08-30-2022, 04:39 PM   #26
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Shocks

I did not see anyone mention the shocks. The age and mileage (?) of your rv might be in the range that requires shock replacement.All I can do is relate to you what I found driving a 2002 HR Admiral with 25K on the odometer.


First, the tires do need to be properly inflated, not too high or low. New Toyo tires helped once I got the pressure in the right spot.


BUT, the best $375 I have spent was for front Koni shocks. It appeared to me that the original Monroe shocks were on the rig and did have some life in them. But I just don’t think they are heavy enough to do the job. My coach wandered terribly, and required attention EVERY second I was on the road. I actually got carpel tunnel in my wrist going on our 2K trip out West. After almost 2 years of this, I bought Koni gold shocks. Can’t even fully describe how much easier it handles. I, too, can now drive one handed, and it’s not a wrestling match any more. 4 bolts, easy install.


Good luck


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Old 09-01-2022, 08:04 PM   #27
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Two things:

1. My panhard bar bushings were also shot. Get them checked.

2. Any new shock will be better than a 20 year old shock.
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Old 09-14-2022, 08:08 PM   #28
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1986, if you scroll down to Ford Motorhomes the first sticky? is titled CHF.

You then have 499& pages of how to fix your issues.


Second that^^^^^
Chf & Safe T Plus are you number one and number two best friends.
They were added after the first four hundred mile trip home coming from our dealer that we bought the coach from.
Best investment you will ever make for your rig.
Night and day performance handling out of the gate.
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