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Old 06-04-2017, 05:07 PM   #15
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How does one know where the actual cut off is for weight of front axle to rear axle?
Not sure what you mean by "cut off". The axle limits are whatever the axle manufacturer says they are, e.g. 20k for your rear axle. A 20k limit doesn't mean the wheels fall off at 20,001 lbs, but exceeding it does mean you are over stressing the components and suffering increased wear & tear.

Sometimes the RV builder chooses an axle too light duty for the coach he builds and it ends up being overweight even though only a modest load is placed onboard. It's a poor design, but they sometimes do that to keep the price down, and sometimes they just screw up and add too many heavy goodies. It sounds like you have a 39.9 ft coach on a chassis made to carry a shorter (and lighter) 38 footer. Sorry, but the time to check available weight carrying capacity was before you bought, so it's too late now and you have just to live with it. If its any consolation, you aren't the first.

Water is heavy ( 8 lbs/gallon), so right away you put a bunch of weight onboard in the fresh tank, probably 600 lbs if it's 3/4 full. And then you carry some clothes and gear, probably more than you realize. You may have to limit your water load to help keep the weight in check.
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:03 PM   #16
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Any weight placed behind the rear axle will add to the rear axle and subtract from the front axle.

Any weight placed in front of the front axle will add to the front axle and subtract from the rear axle.

Any weight placed between the axles will add to both axles based on the ratio of distance the weight is placed in relation to the two axles.

You could calculate the amount you would have to move forward to transfer enough weight off the rear and on to the front axle to solve your problem.

Having said that, I once had a 2002 Monaco Knight 2' shorter than yours with only 2 slides. I think I would have had to put a small car in the bedroom to over load the rear axle. I always carried full fuel and water tanks and never even came close to overloading anything. You're problem seems odd.

Here's a link to another thread on the the topic of Monaco PDQ weights.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/appr...dq-129528.html

I'm shocked at the lack of CCC on that particular model. It has a CCC less than my Nissan Armada.
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:14 AM   #17
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Any weight placed behind the rear axle will add to the rear axle and subtract from the front axle.

Any weight placed in front of the front axle will add to the front axle and subtract from the rear axle.

Any weight placed between the axles will add to both axles based on the ratio of distance the weight is placed in relation to the two axles.

You could calculate the amount you would have to move forward to transfer enough weight off the rear and on to the front axle to solve your problem.

Having said that, I once had a 2002 Monaco Knight 2' shorter than yours with only 2 slides. I think I would have had to put a small car in the bedroom to over load the rear axle. I always carried full fuel and water tanks and never even came close to overloading anything. You're problem seems odd.

Here's a link to another thread on the the topic of Monaco PDQ weights.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/appr...dq-129528.html

I'm shocked at the lack of CCC on that particular model. It has a CCC less than my Nissan Armada.
I agree and would like to add some here. The CCC of some large MH's is not as much as you'd think. Poor design. I'm not wagging my finger at you here so please don't take it that way...but for anyone else searching on this site and looking to buy a MH this needs to be examined 1st before you buy.
But in your case here's what I'd do:
1) Carry less water. Maybe a 1/3 tank or less (that should get rid of about 400lbs)
2) Then move some of your gear in rear storage bays to the front. I no your said you haven't loaded in much but do what you can
3) Re-evaluate what you have in the inside cabinets. Move heavy stuff to front, put light stuff in rear
4) Watch your tire inflation tables carefully
5) I don't know how your towing your toad but evaluating how it's being towed and possibly changing that some could shed some weight
6) and on a lighter note...I would highly recommend that everyone onboard go on eating frenzy of high fatty foods for the next few month's and gain some weight. Maybe 200 - 300 lbs. That will certainly tip the front end down, raising the rear end and that just might get you within weight limits.
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Old 06-05-2017, 07:10 PM   #18
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HERE IS ALL THE INFO I CAN GIVE YOU....IT STILL SEEMS BIZAAR THAT WE ARE 1100 POUNDS OVER ON THE REAR AXLE.I agree and would like to add some here. The CCC OUR CCC IS 3169of some large MH's is not as much as you'd think. Poor design. I'm not wagging my finger at you here so please don't take it that way...but for anyone else searching on this site and looking to buy a MH this needs to be examined 1st before you buy.
HERE IS WHAT IT SAYS ON THE COACH SHEET INSIDE THE CABINET DOOR
GVWR 33,000
UVW 28,481
SCWR 308
CCC 3169
GCWR 43,000

AT THE WEIGHT STATION THEY GAVE US
STEER AXLE 11,600
DRIVE AXLE 21,180
TRAILER AXLE (TOAD) 4340
GROSS WEIGHT 37,120

OUR COACH MODEL AND YEAR INFORMATION BROCHURE IS
STEER AXLE 13,000
DRIVE AXLE 20,000
GROSS WEIGHT 33,000
GROSS COMBINED WEIGHT IS 43,000

But in your case here's what I'd do:
1) Carry less water. Maybe a 1/3 tank or less (that should get rid of about 400lbs) I GET THAT
2) Then move some of your gear in rear storage bays to the front. I no your said you haven't loaded in much but do what you can OUR BACK CARGO HOLDS ARE SMALL...CURB SIDE CABINS BEHIND THE WHEEL BACK THERE THAT HAS THE INVERTER, EXTRA WE HAVE IN THERE THE PLASTIC LEGO BLOCKS FOR LEVELING, THE LITTLE COIL HOSE TO CONNECT COACH TO CAR AND OUR WINDSHIELD WIPER AND MIRROR COVERS. JUST FORWARD THAT BUT STILL BEHIND WHEELS ARE THE BATTERIES.
ON THE ROAD SIDE, IS ONE REAR BAY, WHICH IS THE POWER CORD.

3) Re-evaluate what you have in the inside cabinets. Move heavy stuff to front, put light stuff in rear INSIDE IN THE BEDROOM IS THE SPLENDID THAT CAME WITH COACH, OUR CLOTHES, TV, BED, SOME TOWELS, IN CLOSET IS THE CABINET WITH BREAKER SWITCHES. AND THEN SOME OVER HEAD CABINETS THAT ARE PART EMPTY.
4) Watch your tire inflation tables carefully OUR TIRES INFLATION SETTING IS FROM A CHART ONLINE CALLED A LOAD/INFLATION INFORMATION CHART FOR RV's BASED ON THE TIRE SIZE AND COACH WEIGHT.
5) I don't know how your towing your toad but evaluating how it's being towed and possibly changing that some could shed some weight NOT SURE WHAT YOU MEAN BY HOW WE ARE TOWING IT. IT IS HOOKED TO THE COACH VIA A ROADMASTER ALL TERRAIN BLACKHAWK 2 AND A CAR HAS BLUE OX BASEPLATE. TOWED 4 DOWN.
6) and on a lighter note...I would highly recommend that everyone onboard go on eating frenzy of high fatty foods for the next few month's and gain some weight. Maybe 200 - 300 lbs. THAT PART I DON'T INTEND TO DO, WE ARE ALREADY GAINING ENOUGH WEIGHT BEING IN A MOTORHOME CAUSE AT THE BEGINNING I HAD TO LEARN HOW TO USE A CONVECTION OVEN. SO WE WERE EATING ALOT OF SANDWICHES, PASTA AND ALL THE STUFF WE SHOULDN'T! LOLThat will certainly tip the front end down, raising the rear end and that just might get you within weight limits.
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:17 PM   #19
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Haven't been following it all, but you are ok except on the rear axle...

you said:
HERE IS WHAT IT SAYS ON THE COACH SHEET INSIDE THE CABINET DOOR
GVWR 33,000
UVW 28,481
SCWR 308
CCC 3169
GCWR 43,000

AT THE WEIGHT STATION THEY GAVE US
STEER AXLE 11,600
DRIVE AXLE 21,180
TRAILER AXLE (TOAD) 4340
GROSS WEIGHT 37,120


Was this a CAT scale for accurate weights?

OUR COACH MODEL AND YEAR INFORMATION BROCHURE IS
STEER AXLE 13,000
DRIVE AXLE 20,000
GROSS WEIGHT 33,000
GROSS COMBINED WEIGHT IS 43,000


STEER AXLE 11,600 + DRIVE AXLE 21,180 = 32,780 which is under your GVWR of 33,000 !

your front axle weight is close, but still under 13000-11600 = 1400 lower than rated

and now adding in your toad of 4,340 + 32,780 = 37,120 which is under your GCWR of 43000

your toad adds no weight "LOAD" to your rear since it 4 down, but does count in the GCWR...

so you are good once you transfer that weight FROM the rear to the front - camp happy
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Old 06-05-2017, 11:01 PM   #20
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"Enterprise".....When "marjoa" said to move some of your stuff from the rear storage bays, that didn't just mean behind the rear wheels. I'm guessing your coach has two pass thru bays between the front and rear wheels. The heaviest gear should all be in the front storage bay.

Side Note:.....Your coach has diesel fuel doors on both sides. On most Monacos, those fuel doors were built into a sold panel that doesn't open like the other doors. If you look closely, those solid panels are hinged at the top. They actually open to allow access to the fuel tank. They are held closed by two screws under the coach. I added latches to mine and used the area above the fuel tank, when panels are open, to store items I rarely use. On the passenger side I stored chains. This panel is directly behind the front wheels. Anything stored here moves weight forward. I sored other items I used infrequently. I was even able to store a blue sewer tote in there.

I believe the Knight had the sliding generator bay up front. On my Diplomat, there was room for a large tub mounted between the front of the generator and the front hood. I stored fuel filters, extra toad pins, some cleaning supplies and other odds and ends. Actually it was very convenient to store windshield cleaning stuff. Another place to move weight forward.
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Old 06-06-2017, 04:37 AM   #21
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Was this a CAT scale for accurate weights?
[/COLOR][/B]
Yeah just to be sure, why not get a 2nd opinion and have it reweighed at a different location? Like at a Flying 'J". But before you do, shed some water, try to do some of things mentioned in this post.
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Old 06-06-2017, 04:56 AM   #22
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WOW, I just finished reading another post going on right now from another member and I think it may help you. Apparently if your Ride Height is not adjusted correctly it will throw your weight off amoung many other things. They start to address this Ride Height adjustment issue in post# 7 in the link below. I'm not a DP guy, but if you have air suspension, I think this post is a must read for you and it may help. I'm sure others here will help you if this is indeed your problem.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/why-...nt-343371.html
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:44 AM   #23
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WOW, I just finished reading another post going on right now from another member and I think it may help you. Apparently if your Ride Height is not adjusted correctly it will throw your weight off amoung many other things. They start to address this Ride Height adjustment issue in post# 7 in the link below. I'm not a DP guy, but if you have air suspension, I think this post is a must read for you and it may help. I'm sure others here will help you if this is indeed your problem.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/why-...nt-343371.html
As I stated earlier, you can not shift weight from front to back or back to front with the ride height adjustment. You can only shift from side to side. You can shift weight from back to front only on a tag equipped coach by changing the tag suspension psi. The OP does not have a tag coach.
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Old 06-06-2017, 02:15 PM   #24
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"Enterprise".....When "marjoa" said to move some of your stuff from the rear storage bays, that didn't just mean behind the rear wheels. I'm guessing your coach has two pass thru bays between the front and rear wheels. The heaviest gear should all be in the front storage bay. YES CORRECT and we have done some of that, guess we need to try to do more

Side Note:.....Your coach has diesel fuel doors on both sides. YES On most Monacos, those fuel doors were built into a sold panel that doesn't open like the other doors. If you look closely, those solid panels are hinged at the top. They actually open to allow access to the fuel tank. They are held closed by two screws under the coach. I added latches to mine and used the area above the fuel tank, when panels are open, to store items I rarely use. Is this really safe to do? Is there anything that should not be put in there. Same with the Generator, is that safe to do? I have always wanted to put one of those auto fire extinguishers in there because it concerns me, not that we run it real often, but often enough. Guess it is the worry women in me?!?!?! On the passenger side I stored chains. This panel is directly behind the front wheels. Anything stored here moves weight forward. I sored other items I used infrequently. I was even able to store a blue sewer tote in there.

I believe the Knight had the sliding generator bay up front. On my Diplomat, there was room for a large tub mounted between the front of the generator and the front hood. I stored fuel filters, extra toad pins, some cleaning supplies and other odds and ends. Actually it was very convenient to store windshield cleaning stuff. Another place to move weight forward.If truly safe, good idea, where did you mount the tub please?
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Old 06-06-2017, 02:19 PM   #25
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Yeah just to be sure, why not get a 2nd opinion and have it reweighed at a different location? Like at a Flying 'J". But before you do, shed some water, try to do some of things mentioned in this post.
We had it done twice at two different times and the rear axle was within about 100 pounds of each weigh.
They were done at flying J CAT scales. We did a 3rd but that person that helped us was crazy, she made us disconnect the car and put it all the way to the back of the scale. It showed us having like 10,000 pounds over. Waste of time and $11.00 lol Also done at a flying J CAT Scale, I just don't think she really knew what to do with a Motorhome pulling a toad.

Edited to say: Not any different but they were Pilots, not flying J's.
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:01 PM   #26
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"Enterprise".....I owned a 2005 Monaco Diplomat for 10 years. I stored above the fuel tank and in front of the generator for those 10 years and 77K miles.

Slide your generator out. While standing in front of the generator door, look over the edge. There is a metal structure and that supports the generator and holds the front hood on. Just as you look over, there is a large dead space there. I had a tub that measured about 24" x 10" x 10", with a lid. I screwed down to perforated tubs to the lid where I kept hose fittings and one of those expanding hoses for washing the coach. Here a photo. It's not the greatest, but it shows the tub mounted in the same spot on my new coach.



Lastly, you should check your ride height. It DOES affect the front to rear weight distribution. After purchasing my coach new, I thought it sat low in the rear. After checking my ride height, I was off by two inches. Once it was adjusted properly, the rear of my coach came up two inches in the back. The handling of the coach also improved.

Adjusting ride height can be a dangerous job, but checking it on a Monaco can be done by just kneeling down at the wheel wells. You need to know what the ride height is for your coach. Monaco use to print it in their manual. If you don't have it, you can call Monaco with your coach number and get the numbers. The numbers are usually something 8 5/8" in the front and 9 1/4" in the rear.

You check it by measuring the distance between the two 1/4" thick plates that sandwich the airbags together. I used one of these banana shaped calipers to measure mine. I wrote the actual ride height numbers on the caliper, so I could check my ride height once a year. I would just spread the caliper to the distance recommended and checked the numbers.

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Old 06-06-2017, 06:01 PM   #27
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It should be pointed out that Freightliner uses three ride height valves. (That's what a Freightliner owner posted) One in the rear and two up front. Powerglide, (Tiffins own chassis) uses one valve in each corner. Setting both rear valves higher will make the rear ride higher, but will not transfer weight to the front. Setting one rear valve higher will increase the weight on the opposite front tire, but lower the other front tire. The increased weight on one front came from the opposite front and not from the rear. Not sure what Spartan or Roadmaster uses, 3 or 4 valves. A three valve system is more difficult to tune in, or so I've been told. I consulted Tiffin before making any changes and took it to a Kenworth dealer who was qualified to make the adjustment. Each person should contact their coaches chassis manufacturer for their recommendations.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:43 PM   #28
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"Enterprise".....When "marjoa" said to move some of your stuff from the rear storage bays, that didn't just mean behind the rear wheels. I'm guessing your coach has two pass thru bays between the front and rear wheels. The heaviest gear should all be in the front storage bay.

Side Note:.....Your coach has diesel fuel doors on both sides. On most Monacos, those fuel doors were built into a sold panel that doesn't open like the other doors. If you look closely, those solid panels are hinged at the top. They actually open to allow access to the fuel tank. They are held closed by two screws under the coach. I added latches to mine and used the area above the fuel tank, when panels are open, to store items I rarely use. On the passenger side I stored chains. This panel is directly behind the front wheels. Anything stored here moves weight forward. I sored other items I used infrequently. I was even able to store a blue sewer tote in there.

I believe the Knight had the sliding generator bay up front. On my Diplomat, there was room for a large tub mounted between the front of the generator and the front hood. I stored fuel filters, extra toad pins, some cleaning supplies and other odds and ends. Actually it was very convenient to store windshield cleaning stuff. Another place to move weight forward.
Dutch Star Don
We have been working hard on reorganization. DH is installing box in the Gen nose. Unfortunately, the diesel fills won't work for us as they are not hinged. They are screwed in and then you have to pull them out after you unscrew them. DH said if he did pull them down, he would put things in there that he would nearly never use and we don't really have that.

We do have a hard plastic dog pen for the two furbabies that (will probably cost me a bit) we are mailing to son in Las Vegas, along with 2 of the 4 (4') fold up tables I was using when I am a vendor at gift and variety shows. We are keeping only 2 tables cause I have not found many shows to do so far in our travels. When we do, we will readdress the issue.
We also have 2 fold up outside recliner chairs and 2 fold up outside upright chairs, we are going to send him the upright chairs as I thought they would be good to have to sit at one of our fold up tables outside. But we decided that if we don't have a picnic table, then we will just eat inside and only use the recliners outside to relax.
We recently had to get a new awning as it ripped off roof while closed. Insurance covered it and even added the lights feature to it, which is nice.
But the guy didn't have time to take the old one down and put the new one up when it arrived so not to be held an extra two weeks, we took it down and trashed it. We pulled the old awning material off of it and folded it up and kept it as a tarp. If need be, we will discard it.
I have to have this all done by Wed, so I can ship what I need to ship to son as we hit the road Thursday. Just gotta find a weigh station somewhere or another.
If anyone knows where there is any. We are leaving The Dalles, OR and heading for Kennewick, WA for an overnight stay and then onto Deer Park WA for a few days. Then it will be one and 2 night stays across the states till we reach Custer SD. There we will be for 2 weeks

Thanks again
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