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Old 07-02-2017, 07:38 AM   #1
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Mounting my angle iron for my mudflaps on my Class A

First let's start off with a Happy 4th of July to all. Next I'm looking for some input and perhaps some Pics of how they mounted their angle iron to the rear of their Class A MH. First I will say I have a 2018 FR GT5 31L5 and I guess I felt it would be a no brainer to mount this once I got it so didn't look to closely at areas to mount it to on the rear of the frame but now that I have it and look underneath I've come to the conclusion the only way to mount the aluminum angle iron need to mount the mudflap to is to either weld it to the frame or drill holes into the frame to mount it. Both not ideal things to do. So I'm looking for some suggestions and Pics if possible (because we all know Pictures speak a thousand words) on how other's mounted theirs. I also like to know how far back and how high off the ground it should be. I hear 4" off the ground is the norm to keep rocks from pummeling my toad.
Thxs to all
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:45 AM   #2
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If you have a square or round crossmember at the rear of your coach, you might be able to use axle U-bolts to attach the flaps to the coach. On my Discovery the rubber flaps are bolted to a slotted steel L-angle beam which is then mounted to a square crossmember at the rear of the coach.
Good luck.
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:11 AM   #3
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We went to a dealership and looked at how the factory had installed the mudflaps on a rig like ours. Installs a flap, did not see it made much
Steve & Sherri
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:56 AM   #4
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I attached extended mud flaps to the rear of each fender well material already there. New extensions do not have to be directly behind each tire, but the further back each one is necessitates them being wider. Example: 12" back make them 6" wider.
Do use extra screws/bolts. Use heavy duty mud flap material so they last. Bought mine in ebay. Should have used full width mud flap and cut it up.
They swing around a lot.
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:33 AM   #5
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I did ours myself. Not easy to do it all depends on what else is in the area. I used the supporting frame for the grey tank on one side and that flap is shorter. On the other side I had to fabricate a frame and bolting it to whatever existing framing I could find. That flap is longer. No one but me knows that because it is not apparent unless one gets down underneath the coach and specifically looks at it. If anyone really wants to do that they are welcome to do so.
I did not mess with the frame and do not recommend you do that. Rather than drill into the frame I would suggest making a "pinch" bracket like the rear track bar add ons do.

It also depends on what you are using for mud flaps. I just removed the across the back rubber flap and cut it into mud flaps and used the angle iron that it was mounted with for framing. I think I may have bought one short bit of angle iron to finish things up. If you do not have a across the back flap to work with you will have to buy commercial flaps and be prepared to modify (cut) them. Every installation will be peculiar and custom built for that coach thus pics of my install would be of little use to you.

The best offer I can make you is that if you send me or post some pics of the area behind your wheels perhaps I can offer suggestions and then post pics of my installation. Good luck.
2014 Itasca Sunova 33C, 2019 Jeep Cherokee Lattitude Plus toad, Demco tow bar, SMI braking system. 20 yr USAF ret.
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:56 AM   #6
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Why do you want to install the large flap on your motorhome. The best way to protect the toad is the small individual flaps behind the tires. The big one will have a tendency to flip small rocks up into your toad due to the down draft created by it. I along with many others have removed the big flap and eliminated further damage to my trailer and toad.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:13 PM   #7
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Full width flaps look right on coaches and are functional. If your angle is aluminum, you can not weld it to the steel frame. Either material will require the use of existing holes or new ones in the frame or available crossmember. 4 to 6" is a good rule of thumb. If it is too low and it drags when encountering bumps or dips in the road it will cause debris to fly up.

Good luck on your installation.
Larry and Stacey
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:12 PM   #8
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Hang the flap using short lengths of chains. Adjustment can be made to how low the flap hangs. On level flat ground there should be 4 or 5 inches space between the bottom of the flap and ground. My picture slown was not on level ground, but you can see how it's mounter.

Ellen & Greg
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:22 PM   #9
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How I installed my mud flaps

How I installed mud flaps - post 9
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:43 PM   #10
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Mine has an "eye bolt" on each side which gives you some adjustability. It might be easier to drill the frame on both sides and use an "eye bolt". Since it's threaded you can get some "fine" adjustment out of the bolt if you're in between chain links on length.

Once you have the eye bolt installed, use lengths of chain to adjust the height. I use one of these as a chain link so the mud flap can be easily removed.

Lastly......and VERY important......Let's say you mount the connectors to the frame of the coach, 36" apart. If you mount to the mud flap, 36" apart, the mud flap will constantly swing from side to side as you drive. Make sure your mounts on the coach and the mud flap are not the same width apart.

Typically, if you mount the connectors on the frame, 36" apart, the mounts on the mud flap should be about 40" apart.
Don & Mary
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:46 PM   #11
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be aware that if the mud flap gets between the tire and a curb when your backing up it can pull down the flap and whatever its attached to. I had a friend break his fender when he backed into a curb,
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Old 07-06-2017, 04:42 PM   #12
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I was able to mount attaching brackets to my frame mounted trailer hitch and then attach mud flap angle iron to it.
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Old 07-07-2017, 08:34 AM   #13
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Make sure chains are pulling on them selfs put them at a angle so flap doesn't swing back and forth
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