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Old 08-22-2020, 06:24 PM   #1
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National 2000 Seabreeze BCC issues

I'm new today to your threads and would appreciate help concerning my National 2000 Seabreeze bcc issues...which I just bought.
Everything was working great...now my bcc will not allow 12 volts to work when I turn the battery disconnect on.....nothing 12 volts work.....when I press the rocker switch it now won't stay on(the battery light all ways came on before).
My two cab batteries are showing over 13 volts......as well as the engine battery next to them.
No 12 volt at all to any lights,levelers,a/c,water pump, etc.,....which were all working fine.When I use shore power the same.
I flushed water in the toilet and the pump came on....and worked....then all of a sudden all 12 volt stopped working.
I watched lots of you-tube videos.....and the only circuit breakers I found are on the bcc board(rv control center #111979)....two different push button 30 amp/one 150 that did not trip.(I've checked the main breakers also)
Is there any other breakers of any kind any where else.?
Please help me.....thanks,....Mike
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Old 08-22-2020, 08:43 PM   #2
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Mike, your explanation is a little confusing. The two batteries (Tied together with cables) are "Coach" batteries. the single battery is a "Chassis" battery. The RV electrical systems are split to "Share" the load. I have a hunch your coach batteries a bad.

RV Custom Products in Santa Fe Springs, CA built the units, and still does. Contact them for your specific unit.

https://rvcustomproducts.com/

The attached file will give you a general idea.

Fred
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File Type: pdf 12v,120v power system all models (closest to ours).pdf (566.0 KB, 8 views)
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Old 08-22-2020, 09:37 PM   #3
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Using a 12 volt test light, check for positive voltage at j3 and j2 on the first diagram Fred linked too. These will be bolt heads on the circuit board. If no positive voltage on j2 then the disconnect is open/off. I have a 1999 and my disconnect failed in the open/off position. I chose to bypass mine rather than try to replace. Damon
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Old 08-23-2020, 12:45 AM   #4
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Fred posted a link to RV Custom Products. Below is a link to the documents you can download for the 111979 BCC.
https://rvcustomproducts.com/111979
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:43 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Fred and Bonnie View Post
Mike, your explanation is a little confusing. The two batteries (Tied together with cables) are "Coach" batteries. the single battery is a "Chassis" battery. The RV electrical systems are split to "Share" the load. I have a hunch your coach batteries a bad.

RV Custom Products in Santa Fe Springs, CA built the units, and still does. Contact them for your specific unit.

https://rvcustomproducts.com/

The attached file will give you a general idea.

Fred
Fred,my two coach batteries are only one year old and I am getting 12.75 volts from each...my one chassis battery I just bought and it also shows 12.78 volts with my meter.
When I use the battery disconnect switch....I can hear the solenoid clearly trying to switch.....but it will not allow any 12 volts to anything.
Do you know of any other circuit breakers other then what I mentioned on the bcc board?
I will contact rv custom tomorrow morning....any other help from you would be greatly appreciated....thanks, Mike
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Old 08-23-2020, 04:48 PM   #6
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Fred,my two coach batteries are only one year old and I am getting 12.75 volts from each...my one chassis battery I just bought and it also shows 12.78 volts with my meter.
When I use the battery disconnect switch....I can hear the solenoid clearly trying to switch.....but it will not allow any 12 volts to anything.
Do you know of any other circuit breakers other then what I mentioned on the bcc board?
I will contact rv custom tomorrow morning....any other help from you would be greatly appreciated....thanks, Mike
If you can hear the solenoid clicking, but nothing happens, then itís probably bad. It seems they go bad quite often.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:41 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Nomad757 View Post
Using a 12 volt test light, check for positive voltage at j3 and j2 on the first diagram Fred linked too. These will be bolt heads on the circuit board. If no positive voltage on j2 then the disconnect is open/off. I have a 1999 and my disconnect failed in the open/off position. I chose to bypass mine rather than try to replace. Damon
Damon.....you were exactly correct.....I have no voltage at j2 so my disconnect I assume has failed like yours in the open/off.
How do I bypass this......and if I wanted to replace.....what would I be replacing?
As I wrote earlier......my solenoid clicks when I toggle back and forth on my disconnect switch.
Thanks, Mike
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Old 08-25-2020, 01:45 AM   #8
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Hey Mike, behind the circuit board is 2 solenoids. Looking at the board, the solenoid on the left/inboard side is the "interconnect solenoid", the black box on the right/outboard side is the disconnect. My BCC is located on the forward wall of the storage bay just aft of the entry door.

I started by removing ALL power. Remove battery cable from battery/s (chassis and house), unplug shore power, no generator, and in my case shut down solar.
I was able to install a jumper cable from one side of the disconnect to the other side. Bypassing the disconnect altogether. I had the cable made at a battery store using 2 gauge. Get behind the board and remove the nut on the left side of the disc. and put on one end of the cable. I went under the disc. to the right side terminal and did the same. when doing the left side, you are working blind and by feel. The right side was easy as it is facing the outside. I don't remember how long the jumper cable was, but I wish I had added another inch or two to it. Would have made it easier to work with.

I was able to get some good pictures with my phone before I started, so I knew what I was feeling around for. It was fairly easy for me to get done.

I did search for a replacement dissconnect. I could not find one that would have been a direct replacement. In order to replace the dissconnect with a new style, I would have to remove the entire BCC, take it apart and rework it. I don't dissconnect my batteries anyway (Solar installed), and if I did want to dissconnect the batteries I would just pull a cable/s.

BTW, the interconnect soleniod is what connects the chassis battery and house battery together when the Boost switch on the dash is operated.

Hope this helps.
Damon
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Old 08-25-2020, 12:51 PM   #9
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The RVP BCC board has circuit breakers (usually one on either upper corner) and the two solenoids somebody mentioned. Open breakers can cause your problem, and so can malfunctioning solenoids.
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Old 08-26-2020, 01:46 PM   #10
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The RVP BCC board has circuit breakers (usually one on either upper corner) and the two solenoids somebody mentioned. Open breakers can cause your problem, and so can malfunctioning solenoids.
Gary.....my board has two 30 amp circuit breakers, one on each top corner, and a 150 amp on the right bottom back side....and none of them blew or needed resetting.
What do you mean about "open breakers can cause problems,and so can malfunctioning solenoids"....please explain to me.
Thanks, Mike
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Old 08-26-2020, 03:58 PM   #11
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Mike, another simple test for you to try. Take a piece of wire (at least 14 or larger gauge for this test) and touch it to J3 and J2. May take 2 people. One person to hold the wire in place and another person to check interior lights. If your lights start working then the disconnect is in the off/open position, or it's contacts are fried. Either way the disconnect is bad or not working. You stated you can hear it "click" when the switch is operated. Makes me think the internal contacts are fried or the ratcheting mechanism is broken. Disconnect needs replaced or bypassed, your choice.
Now look on the back side of the board you will see metal bands going from J2 to a black box. That black box is the disconnect. It will have a large 5/16" terminals on each side and on the front will be two smaller terminals with a small wire connected to each from the back of the board. You can use your test light to see if either of these small terminals get power when you operate the switch. One of the small wires should be hot when switching on, the other should be hot when switching off. Again, if you have power getting to these small terminals along with clicking sound and still no 12 volt power at J2 then the disconnect is bad.
The breaker in the top left corner (cb3) supplies power to J3 which goes through the disconnect to J2 to supply power to the 12 volt circuits. The breaker in the top right corner (cb1) supplies power to the electric seat controls (optional). The large breaker in the lower right corner (cb2) supplies power to the generator starter. Which will not work if the disconnect is off/open position.

That's all I have for now,
Good luck
Damon
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:38 PM   #12
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What do you mean about "open breakers can cause problems,and so can malfunctioning solenoids"....please explain to me.

Nothing mystical. I merely meant that if those 30A breakers were open, the symptoms wuld be much as you describe. Ditto if the battery disconnect solenoid (relay) is not closing when it should.
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Old 08-29-2020, 09:10 AM   #13
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When a lot of DC things don't work, the issue is often a bad chassis ground. Look for a bolt on the frame with a lot of wires attached to it. Remove the wires, clean up any corrosion and reattach the wires.
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Old 08-29-2020, 02:11 PM   #14
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Mike, another simple test for you to try. Take a piece of wire (at least 14 or larger gauge for this test) and touch it to J3 and J2. May take 2 people. One person to hold the wire in place and another person to check interior lights. If your lights start working then the disconnect is in the off/open position, or it's contacts are fried. Either way the disconnect is bad or not working. You stated you can hear it "click" when the switch is operated. Makes me think the internal contacts are fried or the ratcheting mechanism is broken. Disconnect needs replaced or bypassed, your choice.
Now look on the back side of the board you will see metal bands going from J2 to a black box. That black box is the disconnect. It will have a large 5/16" terminals on each side and on the front will be two smaller terminals with a small wire connected to each from the back of the board. You can use your test light to see if either of these small terminals get power when you operate the switch. One of the small wires should be hot when switching on, the other should be hot when switching off. Again, if you have power getting to these small terminals along with clicking sound and still no 12 volt power at J2 then the disconnect is bad.
The breaker in the top left corner (cb3) supplies power to J3 which goes through the disconnect to J2 to supply power to the 12 volt circuits. The breaker in the top right corner (cb1) supplies power to the electric seat controls (optional). The large breaker in the lower right corner (cb2) supplies power to the generator starter. Which will not work if the disconnect is off/open position.

That's all I have for now,
Good luck
Damon
Damon....thanks for all of your great advice.....but before I start this morning I'd like to clarify a few things you wrote me.
#1,is it completely safe(meaning that I will not do any damage to the bcc board)to use a 12 gauge wire to touch between jp3 bolt head(that has power)and jp2 bolt head(that has no power)?
#2,you said to have a 2 gauge made(with I assume two ends crimped onto it to attach to the two 5/16 terminals with the nuts)on the sides of the black disconnect...(did you pull the entire board to do this....or as you said "working blind" from the front).....could I put a switch on this jumper when I want to turn it off?
#3.about the two small terminals lower on the front of the disconnect....the one on the left has a grey wire attached....the right one has a purple wire attached.I was told(by rv custom products)to use a piece of grounded wire and touch first the grey one(then check jp2 for power...which had none)....then touch the purple wire and again see if jp2 had power....which it did not...so this person felt the disconnect was bad.
#4,you said you could not find a direct replacement.....my board was made by "RV Custom Products"(model @111979)....and they told me they have stock if I want to buy it(model #RVC1002....battery latching disconnect).They said I'd have to pull the entire board to replace mine.....which scares me.....I'd rather use the jumper like you did....did you try to contact this company when you were looking for the disconnect?
#5,when you first replied you called the two "bolt heads"...j3 & j2....but they are actually called ....jp3 & jp2....I just want to confirm these are the correct ones.
Thank you again for all of your help.....I'm waiting to hear back from you before I try anything....regards, Mike
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