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Dgreen1069 · 02-19-2019, 05:54 AM

I just went through this exercise myself. I used these guys and was super happy with their service: Marine Wiring, Boat Cable and Electrical Genuinedealz.com

They used tinned wire and lugs which resists corrosion. It’s the same stuff used in he marine industry. I bought premade cables for my series and parallel connections, and bought their lugs and shrink tubing to replace my main inverter connections.

Winemaker2 · 02-19-2019, 05:56 AM

I would respectfully disagree with recommendations for solder and use of welding wire.
Here is a great link w many useful tips on 12V electrical systems. It's done by a real Pro (ABYC Certifed electrician boats & yachts). IMO MHs are closer to boats than any other comparison and his tips are spot on.
https://marinehowto.com/category/electrical/
Vibration causes problems w both welding cable... very fine stranded wire and solder... susceptible to breakage at the transition. He has detailed articles on making battery wires as well as general crimping tips.
If it's worth doing... it's worth doing correctly!

oscarvan · 02-19-2019, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winemaker2

I would respectfully disagree with recommendations for solder

Agreed.

oscarvan · 02-19-2019, 06:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdracr39

Size your cables to your master circuit breaker size and the distance it is from the batteries
. My cables are short and I have a 200 amp breaker so I used 2/0. You never want your wire size to be rated for less than the protection device is rated for or a meltdown could occur before it trips.

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437

Except none of the series/parallel cables will carry the full load. The connection to the chassis will, but not the cables connecting the battery. The most any of them will carry is half the load on the parallel cable. Nothing wrong with 2/0 but it's unwieldy for the connector cables. 1/0 is plenty, 1 will do the trick. Also don't think he has a 200A main breaker. Heck, mine's only 150.

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oscarvan

Except none of the series/parallel cables will carry the full load. The connection to the chassis will, but not the cables connecting the battery. The most any of them will carry is half the load on the parallel cable. Nothing wrong with 2/0 but it's unwieldy for the connector cables. 1/0 is plenty, 1 will do the trick. Also don't think he has a 200A main breaker. Heck, mine's only 150.

Thanks for this explanation ! I was going to get 4/0 cable for my connections ( existing cables are 4/0 )...yikes that would be stiff to bend !! But now I understand your reasoning so I should be able to make all the battery connections with 1/0 cables ? Except for the 4/0 cables that run to the chassis.

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oscarvan

One more thing.... I STRONGLY suggest you invest in a multi meter and that you wire the batteries together and then VERIFY voltages as you puzzle it together.

Thanks...yes I have a meter and will check V as I go.

twinboat · 02-19-2019, 07:29 AM

The longer 4/0 cables are for voltage drop issues and are not needed for short jumpers between batteries next to each other.

Although you do want parallel cables that can handle the current of the main fuse.

If you undersize the parallel jumpers, like one recomendation, there is a chance of a bad connection causing 1 series set of batteries carrying all of the current. That would overheat that thin cable.

Find the fuse, make note of its capacity, and size all of the cables for that.

Genuinedealz.com makes great custom cables and has charts for calculating what size cable you need.

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 07:31 AM

This is the current layout I have made...using green and white wires for reference. I had earlier posted some wrong battery layouts. Is this correct ? Thanks

Click image for larger version

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Winemaker2 · 02-19-2019, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Migkiller

This is the current layout I have made...using green and white wires for reference. I had earlier posted some wrong battery layouts. Is this correct ? ThanksAttachment 235421

I'm having a hard time as your pic chops off some of the connections and not sure which terminals are the + & - connections to the MH.
The connections to the MH have to be tied to the common + term where the 2 parallel banks connect together and the same for the common - term.

Domo · 02-19-2019, 09:05 AM

Why not go to a battery shop and have them made up to fit by someone that's in that industry?

I just changed my house batteries and the dealer (Interstate Battery) asked if I needed them to make new cables. I didn't need them - but the service is available.

Also, cables, to required length and gauge, can be purchased on-line...

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Migkiller

This is the current layout I have made...using green and white wires for reference. I had earlier posted some wrong battery layouts. Is this correct ? ThanksAttachment 235421

I didn't know I chopped it off ! The bottom of the picture that is chopped off shows the white wire being the parallel connecter for the 2 banks on the negative post..

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Domo

Why not go to a battery shop and have them made up to fit by someone that's in that industry?

I just changed my house batteries and the dealer (Interstate Battery) asked if I needed them to make new cables. I didn't need them - but the service is available.

Also, cables, to required length and gauge, can be purchased on-line...

I am going tomorrow to a battery shop to get the necessary cables custom made. Just want to be sure I have the lengths I need correct. Thanks

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

The longer 4/0 cables are for voltage drop issues and are not needed for short jumpers between batteries next to each other.

Although you do want parallel cables that can handle the current of the main fuse.

If you undersize the parallel jumpers, like one recomendation, there is a chance of a bad connection causing 1 series set of batteries carrying all of the current. That would overheat that thin cable.

Find the fuse, make note of its capacity, and size all of the cables for that.

Genuinedealz.com makes great custom cables and has charts for calculating what size cable you need.

Thanks ! The parallel jumpers on the old batteries are 4/0. That is what I will get for these new ones.

Migkiller · 02-19-2019, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Migkiller

Thanks ! The parallel jumpers on the old batteries are 4/0. That is what I will get for these new ones.

Took me over an hour to get the batteries to where they lined up with the coach cables !! This should work now ! Will take these to the battery shop to get new cables made. I have 2 breaker panels and each has a 50 amp main breaker.