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10-08-2011, 02:46 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6
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Newbie question on winterizing
Well... after searching I'm still not 100% sure of the right answer, so I thought I'd better ask.
Winterizing the water lines on a 1995 Southwind. So far I've dumped the fresh water tank, drained and bypassed the water heater.
Then added 4 gallons RV antifreeze, opened each faucet until it ran pink, then dumped a cup into each drain.
So far so good.
Then I opened the hot and cold water drains (back by the pump itself) until they ran pink, but while doing so, they ran dry. No more antifreeze. I suspect it's below the pickup level for the pump.
Questions:
Is it OK to leave the pump dry like that? and;
Should I leave all the drains and faucets open for the winter, or closed?
Any other pointers on something I could do differently?
Thanks in advance for your comments.....newbie over here appreciates it.
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10-08-2011, 02:52 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ft Myers Fl / Omaha Ne
Posts: 617
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If you have a ice maker or washer you need to do those. Otherwise, leave the pump as is, leave the faucets closed and lock the door. Good job!
__________________
Chuck & Mary
2008 Monaco Diplomat 40 SKQ
2008 Enclave Toad
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10-08-2011, 02:53 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 341
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Sounds like you have all the bases covered. Want to do mine?
Have you pulled the drain plug on your hot water heater? You may have said that but I forgot. And don;t forget any outside shower plumbing if you have that. Be sure to flush the toilet until it is pink or dry also.
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JayGee
Foothills of the Smokies
2005 Bounder 35E
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10-08-2011, 03:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Carmel, IN
Posts: 140
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Just finished winterizing our Pace >. Got everything blown out and drained. Anti freeze in traps, both tanks and ran through pump. I drained washer hoses, but can't find a way to clear the ice maker. I drained it's supply hose, but know there is still water in it. Ideas?
__________________
Radio Engineer
2005 Winnebago Adventurer 35A
Toad 2010 Jeep Liberty / Blue Ox Aladdin
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10-08-2011, 05:22 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,495
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radi , it sounds like, from your discription that you put the RV A/F in the fresh water tank. Personally I prefere not to do that, as the taste may linger in the tank for a long time. Look for a winterizing hose package at the RV parts store, this hose and fittings will attach to the pump directly, and draw A/F right out of the jug. Could cut A/F required in half. If you have access to an air compressor; then buying an adaptor to blow the lines is a real plus also. ( Use only 25 PSI to blow lines) this adaptor goes into your city water hook up . You may not have got any A/F to the city water hook up from your discription.
MHO from here on.
With compressed air.
1 drain fresh tank,2 by-pass and drain hot water tank,3 open low point drains ( your hot/cold drain taps) and all other taps in the coach. When water stops draining close all taps.4 Hook up compressed air (at 25 PSI) open taps hot and cold starting close to city water hook up and going to furthest taps. Flush toilet where it is in the system . run air through until no water comes out. Shut off all taps, disconnect air. 5 hook up A/F pick up hose to the pump inlet, at this time blow back to the fresh tank to clear the inlet line. ( this can be done from your mouth) 6 turn on the pump, and working from the closest to furthest open &close the taps, when pink appears, and flush toilet. Add A/F to P traps.
Without compressed air; skip step 4 of course. BUT when you are putting the A/F through the system you must manually open to back flow valve at the city water hook up. This valve is hidden by the screen washer at the hook up , so you have to remove the screen. With the pump off push the valve open with a screwdriver tip and have someone turn the pump on ( this gets messy) run until you get pink here too.
These methods result in stronger A/F in the lines.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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10-08-2011, 06:18 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Triple E Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Williams Lake,BC Canada
Posts: 1,230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxTurner1
Just finished winterizing our Pace >. Got everything blown out and drained. Anti freeze in traps, both tanks and ran through pump. I drained washer hoses, but can't find a way to clear the ice maker. I drained it's supply hose, but know there is still water in it. Ideas?
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Plug your power back in and turn on the ice maker (via flipp down lever) let it run over night. You should find a few partial lce cubes in the bucket in the morning. Then flipp up the wire again - till spring.
__________________
2020 Triple E Wonder RTB
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10-09-2011, 12:42 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6
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OurTime; no icemaker or washer. At least not until DW reads your post and realizes they are a possibility
Jay; Sure. Bring it over. Or if you are in a warm climate, I'll drop by...until May or so. Wisconsin winters aren't my thing.
Yes, I did remember the drain plug in the water heater, thanks for the reminder.
Skip; Yes, I did add the A/F directly to the tank, I couldn't find a direct suction line like I've read about here.
I thought about disconnecting the pump line @ the tank and putting that directly into the A/F jug, but decided against taking something apart that isn't broken, lest it becomes broken, lol. The kit sounds like an excellent idea.
I'll go back and look for the check valve in the city water inlet.
Thank you all for your comments!
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