Community Forums

Smsudad · 10-07-2013, 08:36 AM

I all, I have a 2006 allegro gas, I'm wondering exactly what continues to run on my unit when I'm plugged in to 110 at my house. Will this keep things from freezing during the winter? Or will I have to run a heater inside the unit. I think my heater in the unit is gas only. Thanks.

Ramblin · 10-07-2013, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smsudad

I all, I have a 2006 allegro gas, I'm wondering exactly what continues to run on my unit when I'm plugged in to 110 at my house. Will this keep things from freezing during the winter? Or will I have to run a heater inside the unit. I think my heater in the unit is gas only. Thanks.

110 @ 20A will allow you to run pretty much any SINGLE big draw item. AC, microwave, etc. The caveat is that the coach is the ONLY thing on that circuit, so dedicated to the coach.

I live in central NC, and our winters are typically pretty mild. I always winterize, but I also set my coach's furnace on 50 degrees so it'll kick on and keep things happy on the coldest days. 110V will happily run your GAS furnace no problems.

BFlinn181 · 10-07-2013, 09:04 AM

If your MH has 'heated tanks', they probably are only heated when the LP forced air heater is running. You could put a few light bulbs in tank bay and keep them warm enough if you live in a relatively mild climate. Safest would be to drain all liquids, blow out water lines or use RV antifreeze. Don't forget drain traps.

frankdamp · 10-07-2013, 09:10 AM

Once I've winterised the MH and tucked it away down the side of the garage, I put a 1500W oil-filled radiator in the hallway in the toilet/shower area. I plug it into a short heavy-gauge extension cord through a "Kill-a-watt" meter and a plug-in digital thermostat set at its minimum temperature of 45 degrees. I keep an eye on the temperature through a wireless indoor.outdoor temperature indicator, leaving the "outdoor" unit in the MH and bringing the indoor unit inside the house.

The coldest overnight last winter was 27F and inside the MH stayed at about 36. I can't remember the KWH total on the Kill-a-watt, but it was fairly low for the three months it was on.

MJFZ · 10-07-2013, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smsudad

I all, I have a 2006 allegro gas, I'm wondering exactly what continues to run on my unit when I'm plugged in to 110 at my house. Will this keep things from freezing during the winter? Or will I have to run a heater inside the unit. I think my heater in the unit is gas only. Thanks.

I suggest you winterize the water lines. It's cheap insurance only asking a few gallons of pink anti freeze and an hour of your time.

Mike

SuperGewl · 10-07-2013, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

If your MH has 'heated tanks', they probably are only heated when the LP forced air heater is running. You could put a few light bulbs in tank bay and keep them warm enough if you live in a relatively mild climate. Safest would be to drain all liquids, blow out water lines or use RV antifreeze. Don't forget drain traps.

Ok yes blow all lines, but don't put RV Anti-freeze in the water lines. As long as you blow all water lines completely and then leave the faucets open. Make sure you drain the Hot Water Heater and then drain the san tanks last. Now It's OK to get that gallon of RV anti-freeze and pour some down all of the P-traps and about 1/2 gallon into the toilet, leaving a little bit on the ball valve. Don't forget to drain the low point drains and the outside shower also. Doing thins this way keep you from having to decontaminate the Potable water system come next spring. All you will have to do is fill and drain the system once.

BFlinn181 · 10-07-2013, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperGewl

Doing thins this way keep you from having to decontaminate the Potable water system come next spring. All you will have to do is fill and drain the system once.

I use RV antifreeze, which is non-toxic. In spring I fill the water tank with water and 1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gallons of water. Run all hot and cold faucets until I smell bleach. Let sit 4-6 hours. Drain. Refill tank with water and run each faucet until bleach smell is gone. With water distribution manifold and all the turns and curves of my water system I don't trust air to prevent water from pooling in low spots or valves. I'd rather have the RV antifreeze in there knowing it will not damage plumbing to -30º, more than we've ever had in southern Ohio.

DA_BUS · 10-07-2013, 06:51 PM

Gotta agree with Bob....Rv antifreeze.....to blow out the lines may work - until you find a line with a "slight" low spot or you froget to open a drain valve or miss a bypass......in a "slight" low spot the air can blow by and still leave water to recollect in a spot like this. I use the non toxic RV anti freeze and it doesn't cause any problems if you flush the system in the spring. Cheap insurance as a broken line in a difficult spot sucks. Here in MN it is cold - so I don't risk anything.

Smsudad · 10-07-2013, 07:23 PM

Thanks all. Anti-freeze is my friend.......... Will the 110 20A keep my batteries charged? Is it automatic or do I need to flip a switch somewhere Thanks again

Ramblin · 10-07-2013, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DA_BUS

Gotta agree with Bob....Rv antifreeze.....to blow out the lines may work - until you find a line with a "slight" low spot or you froget to open a drain valve or miss a bypass......in a "slight" low spot the air can blow by and still leave water to recollect in a spot like this. I use the non toxic RV anti freeze and it doesn't cause any problems if you flush the system in the spring. Cheap insurance as a broken line in a difficult spot sucks. Here in MN it is cold - so I don't risk anything.

I blow out the lines, always have, never had a problem.. I use antifreeze in the traps and waste tanks.

Here's what I think happens with low spots, etc. Water will collect there and you're right, there's no way for it to get out, and it freezes. But, as long as it has space to expand inside the lines as it freezes, it can't cause any problems. You have problems when you have lines FULL of water under pressure with faucets closed and no way for any expansion.

It's a leap of faith, and I understand that. And the safest thing to do is antifreeze. Being the cynical skeptic I am, I just can't imagine the antifreeze is really safe for my potable water system, and I can't justify the cost and hassle when I have had 100% success draining the tanks and blowing the lines.

Ramblin · 10-07-2013, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smsudad

Will the 110 20A keep my batteries charged? Is it automatic or do I need to flip a switch somewhere Thanks again

It should keep your house batteries charged, and may (or may not) keep your chassis battery(s) charges. You can buy a device called 'Trik-L-Start' that will keep your chassis battery topped off while plugged in to shore power if your coach doesn't already.

BFlinn181 · 10-07-2013, 07:41 PM

To check if both battery groups, house and chassis will be charged, use a multitester. Check voltages when off shore power, then when hooked up. There will be an increase if you converter/charger is hooked up to both battery systems. Check water levels in batteries to be sure your charger isn't boiling them dry, but you should be fine.

jfran304 · 10-07-2013, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smsudad

I all, I have a 2006 allegro gas, I'm wondering exactly what continues to run on my unit when I'm plugged in to 110 at my house. Will this keep things from freezing during the winter? Or will I have to run a heater inside the unit. I think my heater in the unit is gas only. Thanks.

Which model Allegro do you have?

We have the 2006 Allegro Open Road 35TSA.

Plugged in to a 110 volt outlet your house batteries will be charged. To keep the chassis batteries charged you will need to install a battery minder or something similar.

If your coach has a front and rear heater the rear heater has ducting ran to the wet bay to keep it from freezing. If you only have the one heater it will have ducting ran to the wet bay to keep it from freezing.

You would be much better off to have a 50 Amp circuit installed for your coach. If your house electrical wiring will support it, it doesn't cost that much.

For more information from owners of Tiffin Motor Coaches check out this site:
Tiffin RV Network

Jon

SuperGewl · 10-07-2013, 09:20 PM

Which ever way you go is what make you feel good in the morning.

I will stay with LP air, opening the faucets, draining the tanks and all the low points. If you leave the faucets open then if there is any water left in the lines then it has somewhere to expand to. RV Anti-freeze in the P-traps and toilet when done work just fine for me.

Less work in the spring, to each his own