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Old 03-22-2023, 06:17 PM   #1
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Newmar New Aire Electrical Question

Hi, Here's the situation that I'm hoping the 'Gray Beards' in here can offer some input on.

We're considering the purchase of a Newmar 'New Aire' RV. The dealer mentioned that as it's 'all electric' we need to have a charge on the unit (plugged in) when not use. He went on to say that most storage facilities have shore power so that's not a problem. But it is.

We would like to store the RV at a facility that doesn't offer electrical hookups. Before you say that we should go elsewhere, the place is the best in the area and it's close to our home, so we intend to store it there regardless of the lack of power.

The problem is that the dealer went on to say that solar panels are a waste of money and not to install them. Our current rig has solar panels and they provide more than adequate power to keep everything up and operational.

So, this is the question(s). Have any of you encountered similar problems and if so, how did you address them? Install solar panels? If so, what Kwh output is adequate? I'm thinking 900Kwh, but am very open to inputs from folks who have similar power requirements.

If you need additional information, please don't hesitate to ask. And if anyone has options for us to consider, we'd deeply appreciate it!

Thank you for your time and consideration!
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Old 03-22-2023, 06:34 PM   #2
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What, if anything, do you want to keep running when the unit is in storage?
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Old 03-22-2023, 06:35 PM   #3
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Are you handy? If so, just keep a pair of gloves and a wrench in/near the battery compartment. Then, after you park in storage, just disconnect the ground(s) from the batteries. There's nothing I'm aware of that must have power while in storage. Your refer is empty, and all the phantom loads are unnecessary. I would definitely put a 'IN CASE OF EMERGENCY CALL THIS NUMBER' with your own number note in the door window and in the drivers side window. Just in case of the very unlikely occurrence of some sort of issue where the storage crew needs to move your RV. And of course be sure the storage office knows your RV will start once the batteries are reconnected.

I've stored mine several times and just put the note in the windows and then disconnect the batteries. Saves the batteries too. Keeps them from getting totally ruined if connected in storage.

When you go to pick up the RV, if it's been months, just be sure the storage facility either has jumper cables or you carry them with you and can reach your battery compartment. Not a big deal except when the batteries are very old. You just jump the starting batteries only, get the engine started, and let the alternator charge up the rest of the way. Most storage lots have a heavy duty charger though and it's best to use that, if you need to. Most of the time you won't.
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Old 03-22-2023, 07:01 PM   #4
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For short term just use the battery disconnect. If you think you will only use the coach once or twice per year, go with your 900 watts of solar and you'll be fine. Its kind of sad that most RV sales people don't know much about the class A's they sell.
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Old 03-22-2023, 08:18 PM   #5
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"All Electric" shouldn't matter unless you plan to keep the fridge running. The term simply means you don't have any propane appliances on board, but if you aren't running them then not having an outlet available in storage makes no difference.

Parasitic loads would be the issue whether all electric or not. As others suggested, just turn off the "salesman's switch" or pull the negative battery cables.
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Old 03-23-2023, 05:28 AM   #6
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Hey, thanks a lot! Actually, to respond to some questions, we plan on being on the road about 1/2 to 3/4s of the year. As we live in Florida, we don't have to contend with snow and there are plenty of out of the way campgrounds in the state to keep us occupied through the winter months. So we aren't looking at long term storage, just a month at the most.

But the battery disconnect issue is great advice. I don't consider myself uber handy, but I CAN disconnect the battery and do have a heavy-duty jump set!

Again, thanks!
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Old 03-23-2023, 06:12 AM   #7
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Be careful of the recommendations to disconnect the negative battery cables on the coach batteries. If the coach has a Magnum inverter/charger, refer to the manual for disconnecting batteries. Mine says to disconnect the positive leads.

This is because of the circuitry of the Magnum inverters. Removing the negative ground cables can cause the inverter to ground internally and this is expensive.
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Old 03-23-2023, 06:29 AM   #8
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I wouldn’t remove cables from the battery to disconnect it. I’d use the red battery disconnect switch. You’ll still have some small parasitic load on the batteries, but it won’t be much. My coach is “all electric” and it has a little 10W solar panel on the roof specifically placed to trickle charge the chassis batteries. I’d guess your coach has this too.
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Old 03-23-2023, 06:48 AM   #9
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200 or 300 watts of solar will keep the batteries charged on any RV, if parked in the sun.
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Old 03-23-2023, 07:39 AM   #10
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Not sure about the new aire, but on my mountain aire, i have disconnect switches on my house batteries, and once thrown those batteries stay very stable for months. The chassis battery has a (factory installed) disconnect switch, BUT it is wired in such a way that there are *some* of the electronics on the coach that are still powered. The factory installed small solar panel has no trouble keeping the battery topped off though.

So .. Keep in mind that if you install solar, the system will likely only keep the house batteries charged, so dont forget about the coach batteries.

For the record, i have like 900 watts solar, but if i am storing for more than a week or so, i disconnct the solar, and throw the disconnect switch on both the house and chassis batteries..
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Old 03-23-2023, 11:48 AM   #11
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We're considering the purchase of a Newmar 'New Aire' RV. The dealer mentioned that as it's 'all electric' we need to have a charge on the unit (plugged in) when not use. He went on to say that most storage facilities have shore power so that's not a problem. But it is.
I think he is blowing smoke. All-electric means it lacks propane, not that it has to be plugged in all the time. What does he think happens while you drive - do you have to run the generator then? And besides, it has a large battery bank, right?

So yeah, if it's not plugged in, it will run the batteries down. Sooner rather than later if you leave appliances powered on. But if the fridge is off and you aren't trying to keep water hot, why do you need a lot of external power? It's no different than a "partial electric coach" in that regard.
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Old 03-23-2023, 12:28 PM   #12
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I have a 2014 Canyon Star that I store outside here in SoCal

The PO installed (4) 175 watt solar panels, operated through a controller.

The 10watt OEM solar panel was disconnected, and the solar controller will direct a 2 amp trickle charger to chassis battery, once the house batteries reach full charge.

My coach has propane, but a residential fridge with it's own inverter.

It has (4) 6 volt, Lifeline AGM 220 amp/hr batteries in the house bank and an AGM Group 65 chassis Battery (gas coach).

I turn off all lights, and both inverters when I store it, but leave the salesman switch on. Sometimes, during the heat of the summer, I will leave one or two fantastic fans on low, for air circulation through the RV...

I also bring it to my home (no 120V plug available) prior to a trip, leaving the fridge on for 2 or 3 days for outfitting for the trip.

I have had no issues with that solar system keeping those batteries fully charged in storage or at my house pre-trip. I have not experienced low or dead batteries in the 3 years I have owned it with that set-up.

Your local weather and the size/type of your house batteries will dictate how much solar you may need, but I offered the above anecdotal experience as a general comparison for you..

A Solar system is more than capable of keeping your batteries well charged when storing an RV outside.
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Old 03-23-2023, 02:08 PM   #13
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If bidirectional charging circuit is working all the batteries should stay charged with about 200w like twinboat said.
Check out Epever DuoRacer solar controller from 10-30a it has separate 1amp battery circuit that should chassis batteries. The bidirectional charging not working comes up really often. The DuoRacer doesn't really cost more than the same non dual controller. Just only offered 10, 20 & 30a -100v PV max. The 30A should good to about 800 w with panels flat on roof . A few too many watts is not an issue but they trip for over volts on PV side.
Check out FB marketplace for used grid tie panels within a reasonable ride. Most are advertised as about 7yrs old and about tad under .50 a watt maybe .35 if lucky. I would look for ones with Monocrystaline solar cells, they appear black instead of blue.
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