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Old 07-01-2018, 06:00 PM   #1
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No flow on cold water side

Hello all,

I'm currently living life in a state park in a 1998 National Tradewinds 7370. As this is my first time in an rv, I decided to sanitize the water system. I set the water heater to bypass, loaded bleach correctly through the winterizing kit, and filled the tank. Then I went to run the water through the lines and let it sit.

However, when I go to run it on cold nothing happens. I let it sit for 30 minutes with nothing. When I ran the hot water, it got the air out and then ran fine. I'm currently draining the tank and will then refill it to get the bleach out of the lines, but I have 2 questions.

1. Since I'm running bleach water out of the lines, is it safe to drink or at least good enough to brush my teeth and shower in.

2. Does anyone know how to get the cold water running? It ran at the shop that inspected it for me before I bought it, I also have an under sink anti-bacteria filter to install of I can get it running.

Thanks for the help, now I wish I had brought a tow vehicle to go grab water, but here I am stuck with a bicycle.

Lastly, this is rooted on my phone a that's where I have internet, please forgive any typos.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:14 PM   #2
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If you had normal water flow before you turned the valve to bypass, I think that might be a clue. How many valves did you have to turn in the bypass step? There could be up to 3 valves that need to be turned to properly shut off the water to the water heater.

Also check that the shower, inside and outside, if you have one, have all water valves shut. Sometimes the shower gets shut off at the showerhead hose and with both valves open, it can allow water to cross flow.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:40 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply. I have one valve in the water bay for the bypass, put it bank and made no difference. However now to add to things, my grey tank it's full all the way into the shower and it's not draining when I pull the valve.
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:37 PM   #4
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So I managed to get the grey tank dump valve open enough to where I should've been able to pry back the closing mechanism, but it turns out the valve isn't broken, something clogged it which is strange as it was empty when I started and should only have bleach and water in it. No news on the other issue, I think I'm just going to call a dealer tomorrow and beg for an appointment.
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:47 PM   #5
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A lot of campgrounds "know a guy" who will do repairs on site. Ask the host.
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Old 07-01-2018, 11:05 PM   #6
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Welcome to the forum! I'm sorry that it took a problem for you to join us, but we hope that you will stay engaged after you have a resolution.



Since you had cold water before, you need to go back through and make sure that you have the valves back in the correct position. Those valves do have a pesky way of hiding from you.



As is a standard suggestion, the best thing is to camp in your backyard or driveway for a bit in order to get a feel for your coach and then if you do have an issue, you have resources to deal with it and a fall back position (your bed).
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Old 07-02-2018, 09:18 AM   #7
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I got the tank draining ring solved after a messy mistake. Apparently gray handle doesn't always man grey tank. Now my pad has poop on it from me trying to unclog it. I will have to buy some beer for my neighbors out here.

More seriously though, as the hot water side has been bleached, do you think it's safe to drink while I continue to troubleshoot the child water side?

I really do appreciate all of the quick replies here.
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:49 AM   #8
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

I've never sanitized our system so can't advise you.

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:07 AM   #9
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ORIGINAL MSG
........ I set the water heater to bypass, loaded bleach correctly through the winterizing kit, and filled the tank. Then I went to run the water through the lines and let it sit.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You said you winterized using the winterizing kit?
If you used to hose that is used on the rig did you turn the winterizing valve back to its normal position?
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:18 PM   #10
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I did, I don't actually know if it's called a winterizing kit or not, but it has a short hose on a second port and a switch to change it from "tank to pump" to "inlet to pump." Currently it's on tube team to pump setting
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IggyTech View Post
ORIGINAL MSG
........ I set the water heater to bypass, loaded bleach correctly through the winterizing kit, and filled the tank. Then I went to run the water through the lines and let it sit.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You said you winterized using the winterizing kit?
If you used to hose that is used on the rig did you turn the winterizing valve back to its normal position?

I had thought of this also^^, but something else makes this whole thing puzzling.


He has hot water flow, but no cold water flow. My understanding of the system is that the hot water can only flow if there is cold water flow and pressure into the water heater, forcing the hot water to exit out to the faucets. If that's the case, then how can he have cold water flow/pressure to the water heater but not to the rest of the system?


The winterizing line taps into the system on the supply side of the pump--between the fresh water tank and the pump. If it is left open, then the pump will suck air and not be able to supply pressure/flow to the system, or at least in a greatly reduced rate. That should also be affecting the hot water supply as well, but apparently, it's not.


The only thing I can guess is that the cold pipe to the water heater is very close to the pump outlet and he is, in fact, having a reduced flow of water from the hot side but the cold side is further down the line and the flow is so weak that it appears non-existent, especially if the hot faucets are opened at the same time.


Someone please correct my understanding of this if I have missed something. Also, I am unaware of any setting that cuts off the pump or city water to the cold supply but leaves the cold supply to the water heater intact.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:23 PM   #12
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Thanks for the reply, I've also tried the whole thing on city water which should definitely have enough pressure, but I think you may be on to something with the order of things on the water line. According to what I read, the water heater is almost always first.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:56 PM   #13
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Typically you don't fill the WH with winterizing fluid, hence the bypass valve.

Sanitizing the system with bleachy water, to include the WH is ok but usually it includes only the fresh water tank and the water lines from it to everywhere. After you sanitize you drain all that sanitizing water out and then flush the fresh water tank and pipes with fresh water. Bleach into the grey and black tanks?

To clean the WH you use vinegar (see youtube) and turn it on and heat overnight and then drain/flush.
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:03 PM   #14
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Yeah I ran the bleach water into the grey tank and out. I wanted to just dump it, but there are things like plants and animals so I didn't. Do you think it'll be safe to drink water out of the hot side after this knowing that I couldn't bleach the cold side? I've been going to the store and buying water to drink. It seems it would be safe, but I'm new to this so thought I'd ask.
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