Community Forums

tazzzytazus · 12-21-2017, 10:39 AM

Have the motor running. No power to interior lights, radio, refrigerator, convection oven etc.... Check for blown fuses and tripped breakers - none. Supposed to be taking rig to Florida tomorrow. Any ideas?

bobsharon · 12-21-2017, 10:54 AM

"Salesman switch" or 12Volt disconnect switch off?

Dcbenny · 12-21-2017, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tazzzytazus

Have the motor running. No power to interior lights, radio, refrigerator, convection oven etc.... Check for blown fuses and tripped breakers - none. Supposed to be taking rig to Florida tomorrow. Any ideas?

is your store / use switch on use

Mr_D · 12-21-2017, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobsharon

"Salesman switch" or 12Volt disconnect switch off?

That would be my guess too.

tazzzytazus · 12-21-2017, 10:58 AM

Switch was on. I turned it off and back on, everything is working now. I’m confused, but at least I have power now.

Vicr · 12-21-2017, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tazzzytazus

Switch was on. I turned it off and back on, everything is working now. I’m confused, but at least I have power now.

Sounds like your solenoid is sticking. Need to have it replace before it goes out for good.

tazzzytazus · 12-21-2017, 11:09 AM

Thanks, I’ll do that!!!!! Hope you all have a Merry Christmas and a safe and Happy New Year!!!

tazzzytazus · 12-22-2017, 06:53 PM

Ok, I once again have no power. Turned switch off and back on again, nothing. I notice my voltage indicator on dash is reading 16. Is this a cause from bad solenoid?

twinboat · 12-22-2017, 07:16 PM

If you confirm 16 volts at the chassis battery, you have a serious alternator problem.

Dash gauges can be off, but if its that high with a good meter, at the batteries, that kind of voltage will burn your batteries or alternator out, before you get to FL. Check the small wires on the alternator for loose or bad connections.

The house power problem is probably the solenoid. Have someone flip the switch on and off and listen for the clunk to find it.
Then you can move both large wires to one side, or make a jumper across the 2 large terminals until you can replace it.

Dan Paymar · 12-26-2017, 11:33 AM

I've had similar problems and have done a lot of tracking down the causes. Here are my suggestions.

If the dash meter is on the chassis battery then 16v on the dash meter would indicate an alternator problem only if the engine is running. If the engine is not running, then it's probably a faulty meter. First, use a good meter to measure the voltage at the chassis battery with the engine off. It should be about 12.5 - 12.6v. Then with the engine running it should be about 13.3 - 13.6v.

But is that dash meter on the coach batteries? These are completely separate circuits (unless the boost solenoid is stuck, connecting the two circuits together).

If the meter is on the coach circuit, then it's possible that the coach batteries are not connected, and the meter is showing the output of the converter running on shore power with no load. First, check the voltage at the batteries. If it's 16v there, then you've either got a bad cable connection or an open battery cell. Remove cables and clean all connectors. Measure the battery voltage with the cables disconnected.

If its just that the batteries are not connected to the converter, then it's likely the solenoid is not connecting the circuit. There's a fuse, likely 5A, probably on a circuit board near the solenoid.

Hope this helps.

tazzzytazus · 12-31-2017, 05:31 PM

HELP!! Had voltage system checked out, just a bad dash gage. I just got parked on New Orleans and my lights went out. Checked all breaker, none are tripped. Flipped salesman switch several times, getting nothing and don’t hear a clunking sound anywhere when turning on or off. I have power to coffee maker, convection oven and a tv, all on same side of coach. But not to other electrical appliances on same side (refrigerator, washer/dryer etc...) Found a solenoid in front where air compressor is, is there more than one? Compressor starts, but still no power inside. Motor is running, I’m afraid to turn it off thinking it may not start. Any thoughts, supposed to be heading back to Indiana tomorrow morning.

nothermark · 12-31-2017, 06:42 PM

See post #6.

You have two electrical power systems in your RV. Either invest in a $20 test meter or be prepared to keep paying the big bucks for somebody else to use one. It's easy. Instructions are on the Internet.

It sounds like your 120 VAC circuits are more or less working. It sounds like your 12 VDC system has a problem. Follow the heavy battery + lead and it should go to a large can type relay close to the battery area. Measure the voltage from ground to each of the large terminals on the relay. Both should be at the same voltage as the battery. If not toggle the salesman's switch and see if the relay voltages match. Post results and you will get advice.