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Old 03-31-2021, 03:52 PM   #1
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No power to dash or starter - new battery

I have a 1999 32 ft Rexall Aerbus, Ford V-10.
I hadn't driven my RV in a while, replaced the battery, nothing, no lights horn, no start. Checked connections, battery all ok. Nothing.
Disconnected battery, hooked jumper cables to coach cables, had lights horn and tried to start, not enough cranking amps. Installed replacement battery, nothing. I cannot even replicate trying to jump vehicle with battery not connected. Nothing.

Thinking about a few things:
Ignition solenoid
Fusible Link? does this chassis even have one?
Battery disconnect switch

Any ideas or similar experiences?
Any help appreciated.
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Old 03-31-2021, 04:14 PM   #2
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

Are you saying that you removed the cables from the battery posts and connected jumper cables to those cables, and had power?

I suggest that you create a signature showing the make and model of your RV. It will help folks to answer questions you may have in the future. Look at post #30 in the link below that tells you how to do that.

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:54 PM   #3
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On a diesel rig I would say missed a smaller positive cable that feeds dash/ignition/trans pad ,maybe some gas one are similar.
I would check any fuse remotely related to ECM, engine or ignition.
95 Monaco Crown Royale
M11 400hp, 4060 trans.
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Old 04-01-2021, 12:31 PM   #4
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No power to dash or starter - new battery

Thank you all for your reply's, much appreciated.
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Old 04-01-2021, 06:41 PM   #5
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The Ford chassis that you have has a starter solenoid that is typically mounted to the passenger side of the radiator mounting frame. That could account for the failure to start but it would not cause any of the other problems. Do you have a volt/ohm meter that you can trace the power with? I would think that you may have some kind of problem in one of the two battery cables since the only thing that I see which changed in your different attempts is moving of them. I would start by testing the cable from the negative battery post and measure the resistance from the clamp for the battery to a good connection on the chassis frame. It should be a very low reading of 0 ohms or at most 5 ohms. If it is good, then find the other end of the positive cable and test it for resistance, again hopefully 0 ohms or near that. If both cables are good, reconnect them and start tracing the voltage to see where you loose it.
Good Travelin! Kirk
Full-time 11 years, now part-time.
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Old 04-02-2021, 07:23 PM   #6
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Location: Hood Canal, Wa.
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The OP has power to his chassis when he connects to the coach battery but not when connected to the chassis battery. It appears as if the chassis circuit is open some where. Is there a ďsalesman switchĒ for the chassis that might have been switched open?
I had that problem on my first trip as I didnít know I had a chassis switch in addition to the coach switch.
1998 Safari 2620 Class C
2007 Gulf Stream Independence 8295
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Old 04-03-2021, 06:10 AM   #7
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Problem fixed. Bad cable on ignition solenoid. Thank you all for input. Much appreciated.
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battery, dash, no power, power, starter

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