Norcold 1200 Retrofit Therm. sensor #R-010

[nimo]

to make it short, been in Florida for the past 5 month, fridg was fine on elect. all the time. ( here i must point out that going down in Nov. the fridg work fine on LP at al time, but puffing most of the time)puff puff and stady flame for a short time
so mid April we start the trip going back on propane only (puffing inermitently) but cooling propely.

at one point it stop puffing and we got the (no co) bonus , with Irv2 i learn to do the 20 secd reset through pin 15 and grd. i manage to clean the nozel and go a very nice 5 fingers blue flame but still the no co refuse to stay away

same result on generator
to day back in my drivway i did the thermistor in ice water internal resistance check all is good there

two thing i must point out

1-while th LP is on i don't feel any heat if i put my hand on the big black coil right behing the acces door (probably doen'nt have the time to generate it befor the no co kick in.

2-i can't hear the fan's right from turn on or after (it will be my next investigation, but i'm affraid that the top coil will prevent me to acces the fans??

beside the fans being silence it work find for 5 month then i gave it a real nice steady flame and it still not producing cold

??? let say a wire is broken in the fan ass. will the system detect an open wire even the fan don't have to work right from the start and give me the no co alarm

from a label on a green wire i can read (retrofit with thermal sensor R-010..) is this sensor in the cheminy so to prevent over heat and burning of the rv:

once again you guy's are my gold mine

any,, advice will be appreciated and consider..

thank's a million

[Old-Biscuit]

Retro thermal device........that is the Recall Box with stack temp sensor ......shuts down DC to fridge if stack temp goes over 800*F
RED LED light on BOX will be on when tripped


Fans....they turn on/off via a thermostat attached to condenser fin at top of fridge
FIN temp at/above 135*F ---fans ON
FIN temp at/below 115*F ---fans OFF



'No Co' code means fridge cooling unit monitoring system has detected no cooling and has shutdown fridge

Could go into a LONG description but easier if you just read about it and then follow troubleshooting steps


See pg 33-35 and do tests recommended
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/...68C_022707.pdf

[nimo]

I really do appreciate the document you provided, and the time you take for my trouble
I now know where the fans are located and that they are not accessible unless i pull the fridg out a bit into the coach( 4 door fridg) norcold mod 1200LRIM SER 1413072
with the info you provided I will not focus on the fans for now

I forgot to mention that the label about the sensor r-010 was on a unconected green wire. Furthur more I can't see any box with a red light, naturaly the stack of sensor must be in the cheminy compartment I have a feeling that one of those sensor is at fault and cause the no co fault. Any way I could bypass or check them out for prope operation??? any guidance into exploring the cheminy area.
Here i would like to mention that the first time we had a no co fault was after i slowly pass into a pot holl that gently rock the couch from left to right

befor today I did read quit a bit on the beast, and beside the thermistor, leveling the coach and blocage or rad fin or improper fan cooling nothing significanly came out.

I realise that norcold problem are complex and not to popular, I hope you stick with me for a while.
thank again..

[nimo]

would the red light be on a ARP box unit if so I don't have one and I read that the Norcold guy's (parts store) do not recommend this install
what do you think about this..
thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

Your 2005 RV should have the Norcold Recall Box....previous owner MAY have removed it


That label on the Green wire is the GRD Wire that plugs onto the Recall Box along with:

Red Wire....12V DC +
Blue Wire...12V DC -
Sensor Wires...from stack temp disc

[nimo]

Even so I did stick my head in there a lot, even with a mirror I don't recall that box.
I'm just stating what I read... the norcold guy say don't install the box... instead a special censor is place on the outside of the cheminy.
I hav'nt remove the allum. wraping yet to see what's there.
?? the sensor that where use with the box where they on the outside alluminium sheat of the cheminy?? previously you where taking about a sensor stack,,???

do you happen to know a part supplyer like the norcold guys but in Canada

thank's for keeping me inform. hope that in the near futur i will ba able to post the little dancing red men.. and I hope my English grammer make you laugh some time..

[Old-Biscuit]

ARP Device is a completely different 'temp monitoring/controlling' device available via aftermarket suppliers


Norcold RECALL BOX (what that yellow tag on green wire is referencing) is a high-high temp device that shuts down fridge by tripping the DC power to fridge via a temp sensor on the stack (boiler flue...stack directly above burner area)
Temp sensor is ON the Metal Shielding around the burner flue/fridge boiler section
Visible without removing any shielding


RECALL BOX is normally attached to the large slanted tubing
DC + comes from terminal block to the Recall Box (RED wire) and then from Recall Box to Fridge circuit board (Blue wire)
Temp sensor wires go to Recall Box and with sensor NOT tripped DC is allowed to go to circuit bd...fridge operates as design
IF sensor trips....Recall Box trips DC Out to circuit bd (Blue wire) and fridge can NOT function on electric heater element OR propane (loss of DC power)


Recall Box looks just like the one in picture I posted.


In this picture it is the small black box just above the lower circuit bd with ALL wires connected





The Norcold Recall Box is a 'safety' recall....therefore it can ONLY be installed by a Norcold AUTHORIZED Repair Facility/RV Tech.
Norcold WILL install and replace as necessary but only via an AUTHORIZED Dealer/Tech....no parts to owners etc


Norcold Recall Information
https://norcold.com/recall-information/






The ARP Device CAN be purchased/installed by owners and can be incorporated WITH the Norcold Recall Box or separate.
(Norcold Recall....trips IF boiler section/coolant overheats....800*F)
ARP Device Monitors boiler section/coolant temps and will shut down 'cooling cycle' should the coolant begin to overheat (before 350*F depending on set up parameters) and then turn fridge back on when coolant temps return to normal.


ARP Defend

https://www.arprv.com/products.php




Hope that helps explain the 2 separate devices and their functions

[nimo]

Morning old friend.

Yesterday was a bit of a disapointment for me, as I opend up the insulation of the cheminy, hopping to find some sensor that would eventualy check faulty, I only found the (unconnected) sensor of the Norcold recall box and of course the box is missing.
I will call the previous owner to know if he still has it, i'm affraid that in a case of a fire I would not be cover with out that device.

yesterday, after clearing the no co fault I started the fridg on LP while the thermistor was swimming in a boll of ice water. simulating the fridg creating cold, it worked for several hours with no fault code.
since then the LP stays on and no fautl code..(thermistor reposition on fin)
with a temperature gun I get aroud 465 on the tube But... the big black tub (absorber coils) don't get warm like they use to and i don't get a cooling from the freezer or the fridg part.
got me to think that the flue in the baffle is not transferring the heat to the tube, my fridg is venting from the roof so I,ll take a look if i still have a baffle at all and do a bit of cleaning.

would you know the normal flow of the cooling liquid, from the flame exchange does it go to the top condenser then back down to cool the fridg compartment and then down to the absorber coil for some cooling befor it start the cycle again..

I'm not quiting yet still got a few idia but running thin,,

[nimo]

Correction...

this morning with the thermistor back on the fridg fin I had a (no co) situation.

it's really not producing cold but I have a way to cheet it for work purpeses.

[Ucbyrickg]

My box had tripped twice in 2017 I simply run a strong magnet over the box and it resets, thanks to a YouTube video I found. Probably been fine full time on for 12 months now.

[Old-Biscuit]

V

Originally Posted by nimo

Correction...

this morning with the thermistor back on the fridg fin I had a (no co) situation.

it's really not producing cold but I have a way to cheet it for work purpeses.

Heat source (electric or gas) 'boils' the ammonia solution into an ammonia vapor


Condenser cools that hot vapor into a cool ammonia liquid.
The MORE vapor condensed into liquid the MORE cooling absorption that can take place.
Airflow across condenser is CRITICAL


The cool ammonia liquid FLASHES into COLD Vapor when it comes into contact with the Hydrogen Gas


This COLD Vapor goes thru the 'Low Temp Coil' (freezer section ) first absorbing heat/lowering freezer section then it goes thru the 'High Temp Coil' (food compartment) absorbing heat/lowering food compartment


BUT...food compartment can only begin to cool down and stay cool AFTER freezer compartment has been sufficiently cooled down.
That cold vapor can only absorb just so much latent heat and if freezer is not cold then not much absorption capacity left for food compartment


After leaving food compartment coil the warmed ammonia vapor turns back into a warm liquid solution flowing downward thru the large slanted absorber tubing to absorber tank which feeds the boiler section....cycle repeats




Fridge cooling monitor system samples food compartment FIN temps every 10 minutes for first 2 hours of operation (no cooling on FIN) then heat source is shut down for 10 minutes then restart heating source and sample FIN temp every 10 minutes for next 40 minutes.
No Cooling detected....shut down/lock out/'No Co' error




Now couple ways to 'test' fridge cooling capabilities
After reset of 'no co' fault

*unplug thermistor and run fridge
No thermistor ...fridge runs continuously ---MAX cooling
Food compartment should get down below 35*F
Will need to run for 8 hrs or longer
Circuit board/controls still functioning so shutdown/lock out could occur


**unplug electric heater elements leads
connect the 2 element leads together so you have just 2 leads
Plug those 2 leads directly into a working 120V AC outlet and run fridge for 12 hrs......monitor closely cause you have completely bypassed ALL controls/circuit board etc
Elements will be energized continuously regardless and fridge cooling unit capabilities will be tested.
IF fridge gets COLD then cooling unit is GOOD (no obstructions/blockages)
and problem is with circuit board/controls etc
If fridge does NOT get COLD...cooling unit BAD


sounds like cooling unit is the issue


Good luck!

[alounsbe]

If it turns out that you have a bad control board or if someone else needs one I saved all of the boards when I replaced my Norcold 1200 just let me me know if you need them.

[nimo]

when I could'nt see the light at the end of the tunel I finaly put my finger on the bobo.
before I get to the details I want to renew my thanks to you in stiking with me till today. the details of your advise surely led me to the dissaperance or what was getting to be a verry stresfull situation.
thank again. Merci beaucoup..

Like I said before, to make a story short... While I was contemplatin the flame from the fridg burner if finaly added 1+1+1 knowing that I was not getting anay cold I got thinking ( not enough heat) then the vision of me cleaning the burner, during the return trip, and getting a 5 point steady flame was ok but i realise that the flame at the end of the burner had a higher flame then the first one. Click click maybe i did not clean the jet enough. So after a lot of thinkering with fitting, pipe,gaz valve, i got the burner soaking in LCR.
it came out much nicer, and with compress air not blowing into the line but across the o/p of the nosel i took a chance and reinstall the ol nine yard.

comparing to befor I'v got more than twice the flame and verry loud..
right away the big blac coil (botom) got colder, The felling was great knowing I was probably on the right track

for monitoring, I placed the remote sensor of my weather station in the freezer.
at 3.55 pm got 8.6 C 4.16 got 6.9C 4.48 got1.2 Now at 5.54 got -4.4
got some bole of wather in the frezz. to simulate work

my ony problem now is the flame is doing intermitent puffing mabe The cleanng of the burner was not perfect..

Again, thank's for taking the time, I'm sure glad this is all over..

if some one as a Norcold 800 degre protection panel (I have the sensor) i might be interested.

long live this gold mine of mutual help..

Thank's to all.

Nimo

[Old-Biscuit]

Glad you got it cooling down on Propane......
System pressure, clean orifice, clean burner ............all critical to gas operation


Flame should be STEADY, BLUE and just reach up inside the flue opening (no puffing)


So-so (not good) flame left picture------GOOD flame (after cleaning) right picture






As for that Norcold Recall Box.......
Contact Norcold and inquire about having a new one installed
1-800-543-1219


Tell them you purchased the RV and it is missing the Recall Safety Device
Have Fridge Model and Serial Number ready as they will need that info


Best luck!