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01-17-2020, 10:29 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 28
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Norcold fridge
Hi all
I have a norcold fridge n811,power board 628661,works fine on electric but when you try to light on gas both lights on the control panel flash,you check outside behind the panel you can hear the igniter going click click click for about a dozen times with the pilot light on and a nice blue flame but then the solenoid clicks and the flame goes out.i have tried the hard lockout reset but still the same happens.
Any ideas before I buy a new board.
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01-17-2020, 10:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fort Myers FL
Posts: 400
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Don't know without a little research but wild guess would be some sort of thermocouple that gets heated and keeps the gas flowing. Will look when I can get to my computer.
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2001 Winnebago Chieftain 36W F53
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01-17-2020, 11:11 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne Beach, FL
Posts: 1,945
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I don't have a Norcold but a Dometic and the only issue I had was similar to yours. All I did was take a vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose and vacuum out the chimney and all the other areas that I could reach. Started right up. I now do this every spring.
I hope it's that simple...sometimes it is...Good luck!
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___________________
2005 Newmar Essex 4502
1997 Suzuki Sidekick JX, Spokane, WA (Hoping to replace this soon)
1997 RexAir 32' Ford F53 Chassis, Banks system.
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01-17-2020, 05:25 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,345
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I have a Norcold that does the very same thing after a long period (month or more) of non activity. It's done this for a good 15 years. I turn it on, the tic tic tic starts, the burner lights, and there'll be a nice blue flame engulfing the electrode. However, the tic tic tic of ignition doesn't stop and after a few seconds, the board kills the gas valve. It's like the board isn't getting signal from the electrode.
What's weird, and doesn't make any sense to me, is that I can lightly tap the burner's flare fitting and get things working. For whatever reason, a few light taps gets the tic tic tic to slow and then with a few more taps, eventually stop. All is well after this and I can turn the frig off and restart it hours or even days later without any problem.
Of course this isn't the recommended fix but if you do decide to try it, note that I said light taps. Being that it is the propane line, I certainly wouldn't go to taking a hammer to it.
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03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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01-18-2020, 08:22 AM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,563
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That little blue flame isn't a pilot light - it's the actual heater flame. The N811 has DSI (spark ignition), not a pilot light.
The gas solenoid gets shut off if the controller does not get positive feedback of ignition. That comes from the flame sensor that is incorporated in the igniter. It generates a very low voltage signal back to the controller and it can easily be lost if the wire connections is slightly corroded. First step is to remove and clean the connection at the controller board terminal.
You can get a service manual here:
http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-c...-N61x-N81x.pdf
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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01-19-2020, 06:26 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer
That little blue flame isn't a pilot light - it's the actual heater flame. The N811 has DSI (spark ignition), not a pilot light.
The gas solenoid gets shut off if the controller does not get positive feedback of ignition. That comes from the flame sensor that is incorporated in the igniter. It generates a very low voltage signal back to the controller and it can easily be lost if the wire connections is slightly corroded. First step is to remove and clean the connection at the controller board terminal.
You can get a service manual here:
http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-c...-N61x-N81x.pdf
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What Gray posted. Same goes for a DSI water heater. A poor ground thru any of the various meter parts from the thermocouple all the way back to the controller will easily degrade and disable the flame sensor.
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2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53
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02-08-2020, 12:10 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 28
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Norcold fridge
Thanks for all your suggestions the fault was a dirty burner tube,cleaned it all out now starts first time.
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02-11-2020, 09:08 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne Beach, FL
Posts: 1,945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prento
Thanks for all your suggestions the fault was a dirty burner tube,cleaned it all out now starts first time.
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Yup, I had the same problem a while back and now I add that cleaning task to my spring cleaning list. Takes 5 minutes and no worries the rest of the season.
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___________________
2005 Newmar Essex 4502
1997 Suzuki Sidekick JX, Spokane, WA (Hoping to replace this soon)
1997 RexAir 32' Ford F53 Chassis, Banks system.
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02-11-2020, 09:23 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 557
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Similar problem with my fridge. Here is how I fixed It.
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02-11-2020, 09:53 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Excel Owners Club Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Santa Fe, NM
Posts: 6,789
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On a trip last fall I had a water heater that had failed and had fire back out of the burner tube to destroy the control valve and thermostats. AT least it did not burn down the entire RV! Upon inspection found a mud wrabler nest deep inside the burner tube. Cleaned that out and replaced the damaged parts and happily continued with the trip.
I have since added bug screen guards on both the water heater and furnace panels to keep such pests out. I would still recommend pull the burner tubes every year and clean them from any blockage.
__________________
Fred & Denise (RVM157) New Mexico
2007 Excel Classic 30RSO & Coach House 272XL E450
2007 RAM 3500, Diesel, 6Spd Auto, SWD, 4x4, CC & LB
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