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Old 11-06-2016, 06:53 PM   #15
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Ok I know this is going to sound crazy but here goes.

An old timer MH owner told us last weekend if we ever have a problem with the frig. Take off the out side panel and hold a magnet by the red light. He said for some reason it resets the frig and it will start operating correctly. He was told this by an old timer years ago.

I know it sounds crazy but he carries a magnet in his tool box just in case and said it has worked for him and others.

Worth a try.
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:57 PM   #16
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It's not crazy, but it's not applicable here. The magnet is used to perform a reset on the box installed as part of the Norcold recall, and the OP said his fridge wasn't part of the recall.
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:09 PM   #17
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Only $1600 ? That's a 6 Cu Ft. And yup that's right. You're going to have $1000 in a cooling unit. We chose to get a new one and have the warranty.
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:38 PM   #18
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The dealer said replacing the complete refrigerator is less labor charge than taking the old one out and installing the cooling unit and putting it back in. $200.00 labor on new. $400.00 labor fixing old one. Worked out for about $100.00 more I could get the new one. cueman
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:19 PM   #19
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OK, after running on propane for 8 hours with the thermistor unplugged the temp did not get cold. I will do the same test tomorrow on electric and see what happens and will report back. Thanks cueman
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:40 PM   #20
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While you are playing around there are two other questions to answer. Is the flame coming on for gas and does the heater have power when on electric. If so then the cooling unit has a problem. If not it sounds like the control board. Much cheaper and easier.

Bear in mind the basic concept of these refrigerators is some heat source acts on the coolant to set up a temperature differential. If there is no heat in the right spot then there will not be any cooling going on. With gas you can seen and often hear the flame. With electric it comes down to power to the heating element then a physical temperature check there. A calibrated finger will do if you can get there and are careful.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:25 AM   #21
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On propane there is a flame and the flue pipe gets hot. I will do the test for electric today and report back. Thanks, Jim
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:57 AM   #22
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Just because there is a flame and the flue pipe gets hot doesn't mean the burner is operating properly. It still may not be hot enough to effectively function. I had the same issue. I thought the flame looked good. But when I replaced the burner it made all the difference. It was definitely burning hotter and the frig began cooling.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:12 AM   #23
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If it is a burner problem then he should still get enough heat on electric so his symptoms should be works OK on electric but not gas.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:02 PM   #24
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If it is a burner problem then he should still get enough heat on electric so his symptoms should be works OK on electric but not gas.

Yeah one would think. I had a bad burner and one bad electric element. It didn't cool at all either. So a new burner and two new heater elements and I'm cooling again.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:23 PM   #25
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Norcold frig won't get cold- Help Please
Hello Friends, I have a 2007 Four Winds Hurricane 30Q that I bought new in 2007. I only have 12,000 miles on it and I'm happy with it. My problem is the Nor cold frig and freezer won't get cold. The model # N611 serial # 10195786 and I called to see if it was on the recall list and it is not. When I am plugged in 30 amp and turn the frig switch on the green light comes on as it should but will not cool. The light doesn't flash any codes and I have the switch turned to the coldest setting. Then I unplugged from power and tried on propane gas and that didn't cool it either. The frig light comes on in both modes and I pulled the outside access panel when on gas and it had a flame in the pipe flue and looked OK to me. I also checked the switches and fuses under the side of the bed and again looked OK to me. It was working great until my wife emptied it out preparing for storage. She said everything was good and cold. I went to clean it a few days later and it was thawed out. I thought maybe there was a power outage so I switched off then back on but no cool. Can I get any ideas here? Thanks, Jim
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Have you had the electronic control board checked?...many RV service shops have board testers... (some test boards at no charge).
The only problem I ever had with the now 20 year old Norcold fridge in my now 148k mile coach was fixed with a new $80 Dinosaur control board.
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:21 PM   #26
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OK folks, Plugged in to 30amp power the flue pipe is hot and the fridg is still not cooling. So neither propane nor electric with thermistor disconnected will make the fridg cool. Both propane and electric made the flue pipe hot. Is my next step to have the electronic control board checked? Or is this a cooling unit problem? Thank You, Jim
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:40 PM   #27
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OK folks, Plugged in to 30amp power the flue pipe is hot and the fridg is still not cooling. So neither propane nor electric with thermistor disconnected will make the fridg cool. Both propane and electric made the flue pipe hot. Is my next step to have the electronic control board checked? Or is this a cooling unit problem? Thank You, Jim

Circuit board controls both electric and propane -------both operated so no it is NOT the control board

Neither heat source caused cooling to occur which would have occurred with the thermistor disconnected

Cooling unit is obstructed or has leaked.
I suspect a crack and has leaked otherwise a little cooling would have happened. No coolant -----no cooling

Your cooling unit is bad and now it's either replace the cooling unit (a DIY project) or replace fridge

Good luck!
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:58 PM   #28
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While some say its best to change the whole fridge, if the unit is in nice condition, the advantage to replacing just the cooling unit is that you have the option of aftermarket units that are built with heavier tubing, or stainless tubing, or are charged with helium vs hydrogen (a much safer combination).

Me, I have a nice fridge, did the bottom door hinge mod, had to buy all new racks as the old ones were gone when I bought the MH, and I like stuff that is heavy duty and lasts longer and is better made, so I would be opting for the replacement cooling unit.

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