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03-25-2020, 01:56 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 3
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Norcold refrigerator strange problem
I have trouble with my refrigerator.
For a few weeks already it is not working as expected.
It's working fine for a few hours and then it stops working.
If I turn off it for 10 minutes, it will work again for a few hours and then again.
It looks like it overheating, it is happening on electric and on gas.
For gas, I found a solution I can change the amount of gas burned, then it worked fine. Unfortunately, the gas switch is not designed to adjusting gas, and it very hard to do, but manageable with a few tries.
Anyone had a similar problem?
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03-25-2020, 05:55 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,731
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First off, is the MH level? Then check the back of the fridge to ensure the area is clear of bee's nest, wasp nest, spider webs and whatever. Take a look at the ground points in the rear also, make sure they are not corroded: Make sure the propane tubes are clear. Change the temperature to the mid setting and try it again after all is verified clear and clean.
Also, a biggie, what is the state of the house batteries, is the isolation breaker for the house on? Yes even if you are hooked up to AC the fridge still requires 12vdc to run and it comes from the house batteries.
__________________
Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
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03-25-2020, 09:50 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: behind the steering wheel
Posts: 2,576
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look at the thermostat. if it works good for a while on both, and then quits on both, the thermostat, and the high limit cutoff sensor are two common part. to look at first.
`the circuitcboard would be the last part of common items.
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03-25-2020, 12:00 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 3
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Leveled - yes
Battery - good + solar panels
Thermostat - correct, the gas is burning, it's not a thermostat
Why I think it is overheating because it did not freeze for 5 hours, then I turn off the fridge, and it starts freezing for 30 minutes while it is turned off.
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03-25-2020, 02:49 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 1,070
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May I recommend JC Refrigeration.
They have designed a conversion kit for the NORCOLD that converts it to a regular refrigerator using gas or 12v. I had an appointment but decided on a newer DP. Since you are in Oregon they will even ship it to you so you can do it yourself. From all I read it is not a big job for someone with your skills.
Best wishes - Richard
__________________
2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD; 2012 Buick La Crosse; Retired US Army MSG (20 years AFS); Retired! Retired!
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03-25-2020, 08:06 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Leesburg, FL
Posts: 196
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You may have an add as an update from Norcold - actually a safety overheat switch added as a recall to keep fringe from overheating/catching fire. That would cause the same behavior and once cooled, would allow the system to restart. That would trace back to blockage of cooling somewhere. (Mice, nests, roof vent?).
__________________
2004 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 36WDD (Workhorse Chassis)
2004 Honda Goldwing w/trike kit
1995 27' Fleetwood Flair (Sold)
US Navy - Vietnam Swiftboat Vet - PCF 102, PCF-62
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03-25-2020, 09:58 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 26,848
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What model is it???
Recall Box---trips on overheating but that sensor is higher up on boiler section and trips at 800*F. It will NOT 'auto' reset so it is not causing shutdown issues
OEM overtemp device down by burner area BLOWS and would have to be replaced
So it is NOT causing your shutdown issues
Are you getting ANY 'fault/error' codes.....digital display, LED flashing etc.???
Different models have different codes.....that is why model is important info.
Some models use a 'Cooling Unit Monitoring Control' scheme.
If cooling is not detected it shutsdown the heat sources
Again....model of fridge??
And WHAT are you doing to 'limit' gas/make it work???????
Gas Valve when energized is Fully OPENED....and FULLY CLOSED when de-energized
Manual shutoff on gas valve should be FULLY OPEN also.......FULLY CLOSED IF isolating the propane to burner
Manual shutoff should NOT be used to 'limit' flow
SO WHAT are you doing in regards to the gas flow??????
More info WILL help diagnosis problem especially when doing it via Internet
__________________
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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