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Old 12-25-2022, 12:07 PM   #1
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Not power to the slide AC plugs

2007 Newmar DSDP 4037. Thanks for the discussion regarding the wet bay heating. Now to my next dilemma; while upgrading my TV system in the cold, I ran a couple of heaters. One was a ceramic tower which I plugged into the outlet directly behind the drivers's seat. The second heater was a oil filled radiator which I plugged into the slide out outlet. It all heated fine the first day. One the second day a friend came to help me hang the new TV. I turned on the heaters and we went to breakfast to wait for the heaters to knock off the chill in the camper. When we boarded, we noticed the radiator wasn't on. Again, the outlet it was plugged into was the outlet on the passenger side slide out (which contains two outlets, neither of which are working. I read the manual and it states that the outlets on slide outs (galley and dinette sides) are controlled by a single GFI in the galley. I checked and it's fine. All other outlets are working in the galley, aft bedroom, behind the Captain's chairs, etc. The ONLY outlet not working are the two in the passenger side slide out. All breakers in the A/C panel, located in the head, are in the on position and have been reset. Any thoughts and/or ideas? I've located two junction boxes in the basement attached to a slide out cross-member which, I assume, are the junction boxes for either one or both of the outlets. One of the junction boxes is possibly for the freezer (which is operational). Got any thoughts on this? Is there a breaker I'm missing or do I have a wire nut (which should never be used on motor homes anyway) that's come loose? It's been too damned cold the last few days in Virginia to do anything on that coach.
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Old 12-25-2022, 01:39 PM   #2
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Check the push button breaker on the inverter /charger.
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Old 12-25-2022, 02:13 PM   #3
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So the gfci that works is on the slide.... ruling out flex cable or box feeding slide. You could of burnt a load side connection from the GFCI or in chain of load side outlets . It my understanding they use less than stellar stab in back wiring connections.
Definitely split up plugging in elect. heaters to separate breaker branch runs try to keep one or two at/under 1500 watts each breaker. Especially running continuously to get up to temp. or with our furnace because they will not cycle on and off.
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Old 12-25-2022, 02:23 PM   #4
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I know that trailers have insulation displacement 120V sockets. I have never had to pull a socket in my class A. Boy do I know about trailer wiring! For you start at the last in line working socket and remove it and start inspecting the wire connections. It is not fun, but I bet that it is better the the fifth wheel I had. Know rime or reason to the routing. Three connections on an insulation displacement socket know were near the nearest working socket. Took two hours to find. I had to remove and open each one at a time. That is when I figured out why they would not supply a schematic for electrical wiring. The assembler decides just how he wants to do it! Remember to turn off the 120VAC first.
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Old 12-25-2022, 02:25 PM   #5
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Classic open circuit caused by the classic RV industry punch down outlet. Turn off power to that circuit. Usually, you start with the outlet closest to the nearest working outlet. If the wires are intact then go the the working outlet that feeds it. Recommend you stop using your space heaters at high heat settings. Also, consider changing over to residential receptacles where space allows. Good luck!
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