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Old 03-02-2020, 05:56 PM   #127
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So based on condensation alone when does changing the oil eliminate the risk.... just trying to wrap my head around this condensation and one year connection.....does condensation become rampant after one year? Does driving the coach not burn off condensation? If so i would think you could use the same oil for a hundred years and have the same condensation so long as you drive the coach? Just referring to condensation at the moment....
They're prob are no definitives. I guess your cummins is a 6.7 with VVT?. They have an inherent issue with soot buildup on the veins of the turbo - that means a LOW saps oil for sure really.. Do you have a toad? How often is it under full load when fully warmed up? If its been at least several events then I would say you are fine for now. Do a baseline on an oil sample that is a max of say 5K miles. If you only have less than 1K now then take a sample, and put several 200 mile fully warmed up trips on it and take another sample. If both look close, I would say you can go 2500 miles over 3 yrs no problem. If the second one shows TBN dropping (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_base_number) then you are at the limits of that oil for your loads.

Prob should also look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_acid_number at least as a baseline. The short answer is you got to establish a baseline for THIS engine on your loads. That might mean starting with the existing oil. But you should also do the same right after you do an oil change.
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Old 03-02-2020, 06:07 PM   #128
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Funny how some folks spend $50 -$500K on a rig - then buy the cheapest tires, extend the service beyond recommendation, don't replace failed items etc. etc.

I didn't buy my MH to save money nor to willingly void any warranty coverage or to enjoy being stuck on the side of the road with a potentially expensive repair.

But, as I've said before, each of us can use our equipment the way we want. And, I'll continue to hope that we all get to enjoy miles of smiles.
👍🏼 I am with you
It makes no sense to go cheap on Maintenace
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Old 03-02-2020, 06:10 PM   #129
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Nothing like a good oil thread on the interwebs.
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Old 03-02-2020, 06:31 PM   #130
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"The only problem there is that means a conventional oil might be approaching the thermal limits and it really not be reflected at any measurable level. And since some of these newer motors have to have LOW SAPs (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...:_ACEA_warning ) to keep from fouling DPFs, it still is a possibility that the oil will be experiencing a loss of viscosity for some of the engines with lots of emission controls."

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is a good "low SAPS" oil a Cummins guy I know recommends for the ISB in the OP's rig for when he decides to change it.
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Old 03-02-2020, 07:07 PM   #131
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"The only problem there is that means a conventional oil might be approaching the thermal limits and it really not be reflected at any measurable level. And since some of these newer motors have to have LOW SAPs (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...:_ACEA_warning ) to keep from fouling DPFs, it still is a possibility that the oil will be experiencing a loss of viscosity for some of the engines with lots of emission controls."

Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 is a good "low SAPS" oil a Cummins guy I know recommends for the ISB in the OP's rig for when he decides to change it.
T6 isnt 'conventional'. Its technically classified as a synthetic https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod...motor-oil.html

And yes, as far as ISB6.7s go, thats at least what I would start with, and still never go past say 7500 mile intervals and still after some baseline for the SPECIFIC engine.
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Old 03-02-2020, 07:56 PM   #132
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Oil is cheap. Change it. Ditto all the filters and add some diesel conditioner. I would also look at the transmission oil as well. At least have the fluid analyzed
No machine likes sitting.

A rebuild is way more expensive.

Just my nickels worth.
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Old 03-03-2020, 05:09 AM   #133
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Oil and filters are cheap, relatively speaking. If it has been a year I would change the oil. Why not.
Its all about convenience. I will be parking the coach on a campground for six months soon and it will be inconvenient to drive 200 miles for an oil change and according to the majority my oil should be fine with only 700 miles since the last oil change.
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Old 03-03-2020, 06:02 AM   #134
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The engine is assembled and tested at the engine factory before shipping to vehicle chassis builder to finish assembly then drives completed chassis to RV factory for House assembly then drives to dealership then sets on lot . That's two years or more in some cases and not once any filters changed . If warranty is based on annual then the dealer should change at buyers purchase date.
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Old 03-03-2020, 04:56 PM   #135
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The engine is assembled and tested at the engine factory before shipping to vehicle chassis builder to finish assembly then drives completed chassis to RV factory for House assembly then drives to dealership then sets on lot . That's two years or more in some cases and not once any filters changed . If warranty is based on annual then the dealer should change at buyers purchase date.
Good point
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:45 PM   #136
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Oil is cheap. Change it. Ditto all the filters and add some diesel conditioner. I would also look at the transmission oil as well. At least have the fluid analyzed
No machine likes sitting.

A rebuild is way more expensive.

Just my nickels worth.

Oil used to be cheap. Oil is far better today than 30 years ago. Hell, even 10 years ago. No reason to change it too often. Even a no name brand will go easily 7500 miles.
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Old 03-07-2020, 03:19 AM   #137
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Before parking it again for 6 months i may be able to squeeze 20 more gallons of diesel in.......i wonder if that will refresh the tank.
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Old 03-07-2020, 06:22 PM   #138
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The engine is assembled and tested at the engine factory before shipping to vehicle chassis builder to finish assembly then drives completed chassis to RV factory for House assembly then drives to dealership then sets on lot . That's two years or more in some cases and not once any filters changed . If warranty is based on annual then the dealer should change at buyers purchase date.

The big difference here is that the motor is still clean/new inside and the only soot/carbon inside the motor is from the drive to the RV dealership. If you check the oil in a new vehicle on the dealers lot, it usually is still a clean amber color. Now if your motor has 5k or a lot of miles on it, then the inside of the motor is pretty dirty and any new oil change will be contaminated quickly by the left over old oil.
I admit that we are splitting hairs on this subject and either way the motor should be OK. But the best/safest thing for motor oil change frequency is to follow the manufactures recommendation.
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Old 03-08-2020, 08:27 AM   #139
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Before parking it again for 6 months i may be able to squeeze 20 more gallons of diesel in.......i wonder if that will refresh the tank.
I wonít hurt anything and a full tank doesnít condensate like a partial tank. If I were you I would put the recommended amount of fuel additive when I topped my tank. A quality additive such as Power Service or Lucas that is rated for Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel, that prevents moisture build up and algae growth. Most modern diesel fuel has good additives in it but it sounds like you donít run your coach enough to push a lot of fuel through your tank. Just a thought, I may be way off. A good maintenance schedule and good preparation can save you a lot of money in repairs.
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Old 03-08-2020, 08:42 AM   #140
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Before parking it again for 6 months i may be able to squeeze 20 more gallons of diesel in.......i wonder if that will refresh the tank.

Most likely, the new fuel added to the old fuel will just become stale vs the other way around. It would be like adding a hand full of fresh corn flakes to a box of stale corn flakes. I would just wait until the old fuel is all used up (6 months+), then fill with fresh fuel.
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