Community Forums

Monacoach · 03-01-2020, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete5016

Yep...all diesel is biodiesel to some degree. After time, algae will grow. Your filters are your primary line of defense. With only 700 miles in a year, your fuel is very old (regardless whether you top it off or not). As stated above, with diesel sitting that long, be sure to have an additive that will stop algae from growing.

Actually its 700 miles in 2.5 years. Now im more concerned about the fuel. Might have to start a new thread or start driving this coach more. Before 2.5 years ago i was driving the coach regularly and will resume that next winter.
So i guess the plan will be to top up the fuel next month, add a treatment to it and change oil and all filters in the fall.
The coach will be sitting for 6 months at a campground from April to Oct. Thankyou to everyone for your opinions and help.

retired long · 03-01-2020, 07:38 PM

As for fuel filter i would recomend a storage period with full tank an a bicoide added.That fuel or filters will last many miles if fuel is clean an algie free.If it is equiped with two filters even when you decide to change filter i would cut old filter apart an that will give you a idea if you have algie which is a black gooey mess!If not an you have fuel protected with biocide i would only change first filter.First Case tractor Diesels had 3 filters an it was never recomended to change until many thousand hours as final filter is lasst protection against foreign dirt.

TUCSONRAIL · 03-01-2020, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R.Wold

Modern oils don’t meet the annual oil change criteria. That is a very outdated standard based on obsolete oils that would start breaking down with age, but even then, a year wasn’t a big deal. Now it’s meaningless. So it’s not about saving the cost of an oil change, it’s about addressing those things that matter and not performing needless tasks based on the calendar.

R.WOLD, Well said, X2

Shell Man · 03-01-2020, 08:22 PM

I was in the motor oil business for 37 years and I can tell you this- changing your oil is the cheapest insurance you can get to avoid engine failure. Use a quality product and change at least annually- even if you have low mileage. Just sitting idle the crankcase accumulates moisture which isn't good.

Piros1 · 03-01-2020, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monacoach

The manual says 15,000 miles or one year. What would you do if you have only driven 700 miles?

Then why would you think it is OK to go 3 years if your manual states 15,000 miles or one year? Either is the maximum and hot the minimum.

Piros1 · 03-01-2020, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shell Man

I was in the motor oil business for 37 years and I can tell you this- changing your oil is the cheapest insurance you can get to avoid engine failure. Use a quality product and change at least annually- even if you have low mileage. Just sitting idle the crankcase accumulates moisture which isn't good.

Exactly what I have been saying.

Monacoach · 03-02-2020, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piros1

At least once a year depending on miles driven or hours run. Same with the generator. Once you run your engine the contaminants get in the oil, if you just leave it in the engine for several years even at low miles you are going harm yo your engine. If you use it at all you should change it in both the generator and coach. Just good practice plus it keeps the moisture out of your oil. If you can’t afford to do this annually then you probably shouldn’t own the coach.

I can afford an oil change but based on some good feedback from this thread i have chosen to wait until it is more convenient.

Jzack · 03-02-2020, 04:41 AM

I don't understand the moisture in the oil argument. If your RV is in an environment where condensation forms, that will happen whether you have fresh oil or not. And guess what, that moisture will steam out of the engine within the first 50-100 miles of driving anyways correct? Your engine steams out gallons and gallons of moisture while driving just from the humidity in the air it breathes in.

Winemaker2 · 03-02-2020, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jzack

I don't understand the moisture in the oil argument. If your RV is in an environment where condensation forms, that will happen whether you have fresh oil or not. And guess what, that moisture will steam out of the engine within the first 50-100 miles of driving anyways correct? Your engine steams out gallons and gallons of moisture while driving just from the humidity in the air it breathes in.

[emoji106]
And it will show up in an oil analysis in either case as well.
There are the believers in oil analysis and the non-believers that just change often because it's good insurance. Facts, data, arguments won't change either position.
And then there are the syn vs dino groups but I won't even mention that. [emoji1021]

jimmy braden · 03-02-2020, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jzack

I don't understand the moisture in the oil argument. If your RV is in an environment where condensation forms, that will happen whether you have fresh oil or not. And guess what, that moisture will steam out of the engine within the first 50-100 miles of driving anyways correct? Your engine steams out gallons and gallons of moisture while driving just from the humidity in the air it breathes in.

Only if oil temps are near the 200 degree range. Most the time its closer to 180 at most. My pre tier4 engine doesnt get coolant temps over 183 normally.

But yes, there is moisture, the question is when does it bc problematic.

edaa53 · 03-02-2020, 06:02 AM

I have a basic rule. If I think more then twice about "something" I am concerned about I do it. Your oil change questions fits my "twice" rule. Go change O&F. Regards. Ed

Bodean56 · 03-02-2020, 07:59 AM

Wasn’t planning on responding due to all the responses. However, I changed out both my engine & generator oil recently myself just because I don’t want to pay someone else to do something I can do myself and knowing it got done properly. In addition to doing this myself it taught me self confidence and a better knowledge of where and how to perform an oil change. Both oil & generator filters on Amazon and engine oil at Sam’s Club all for under $110. I recently reached out to a national chain and was quoted $650 to change out the oil in both so I just saved $540 to utilize in all things camping.

jwlce · 03-02-2020, 08:30 AM

Let me think.. a $40K motor, $200 in oil and filters.... I change mine annually. Just a note. Oil does oxidize and degrade and the oil analysis will tell you many things but they do not actually measure the lubrication properties, They measure viscosity, and contaminates but I don't see where they look at the ability of the oil to actually lubricate. (shear, wear, friction). So the oil analysis for the most part will tell you what has happened and projections are assuming nothing has happened to the oil that is out of the ordinary. They say a year and I would think that is the anti oxidation properties they formulate into the oil. Differential oil is formulated to 5 years ( or 8 depending on the type.) I know enough to say I don't know enough, so why take the risk.

Shell Man · 03-02-2020, 09:03 AM

If your RV sits for long periods of time ,like most of them do, is the basis for my comment. Your car gets driven much more often it gets the oil up to temp which handles condensation. My point is that changing the oil regularly is extremely inexpensive insurance. A diesel engine properly maintained should go hundreds of thousands of miles. I also wanted to comment on the oil analysis that you can have performed. Large trucking companies do this for several reasons. It allows them to extend drain intervals by monitoring the condition of the oil. It also will let them know when to perform an in chassis rebuild prior to losing an engine by looking at the wear metal levels in the oil. Great program but a bit pricey. If I was buying a used DP I would spend the money as it would give you a look at how the engine is doing. Hope this helps.