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Old 10-21-2020, 01:00 PM   #1
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Oil pump not working

Have a 86 ford 460 dolphin rv. Nightmare! Only has 30k miles on it however have not even got it home after purchasing it 3 weeks ago. Alternator went out and then belt kept coming off. Had to disconnect belts for alternator belt to go on.
Now lost oil pressure. Replaced oil pump and still no pressure!!
Still stuck on side of road. Any ideas?
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:10 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Blissfull76 View Post
Have a 86 ford 460 dolphin rv. Nightmare! Only has 30k miles on it however have not even got it home after purchasing it 3 weeks ago. Alternator went out and then belt kept coming off. Had to disconnect belts for alternator belt to go on.
Now lost oil pressure. Replaced oil pump and still no pressure!!
Still stuck on side of road. Any ideas?
Well,
Sounds as if you may have bought a lemon. But, in reality, from what you've stated so far, it's not that bad. First, in your oil pressure issue, if that engine didn't exhibit any forms of clacking, knocking, noisy lifters, or any other form of noise due to a failed oil pump, I'd suspect the oil pressure sending unit. Mine went out in our '79 F-350 with the 460 on the way home from work one time.

Talk about PANIC!!!! I got it up into the drive way and figured, whew, that was a close one. But, then reasoning things out, like not hearing any noises, no engine catastrophes, nothing other than zero oil pressure, I reasoned it out that, hmmmm, can't be all that bad. Where's the oil pressure sending unit?

Five minutes worth of searching around and found it on the back of the engine, behind the carb, next to the bell housing. You might spring for one of those, to see if that cures your issue.

As for the belts, well, there's really only one reason those keep coming off. SOMETHING'S out of alignment. I'd eye-ball all your pullies and see if you can see any misaligned components.

Then, once that's all straightened out, I'd break out the trusty VOM or, Volt Ohm Meter and, do check all the batteries, the charging system and related components. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:18 PM   #3
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Welcome to the Forum!

Check all the pulleys and idlers and tensioners for the belts.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:19 PM   #4
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OIl pressure sending switch, is it connected and is it working. Note the picture below and it location seems to be in the front of the engine. The below link actually shows it appearance...It is quite large.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/87-f...mod-77234.html
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:37 PM   #5
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The oil pump is driven from the bottom of the distributer.

Have you checked that ?
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:36 PM   #6
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The only possible way to know for sure if you have oil pressure or not is to hook up a manual oil pressure gauge where the electrical sending unit is. Just take out the old sending unit, screw in the hose to the manual gauge then start her up. If you have no oil pressure then you have a problem. Next thing to do is pull your distributor and down the hole where the distributor was will be a hex drive shaft that goes down to drive the oil pump. As I recall it is a 5/16" or 3/8" shaft. Take a drill with a long extension and 6 point thin walled socket (make sure you get the socket secured really good to the extension) then spin the oil pump with the drill (same direction that the distributor turns) and you should have oil pressure. I have seen where the end of the shaft strips out in the bottom of the distributor so it doesn't turn or the shaft some times twists off. In either case you would need a new oil pump drive shaft and possibly a distributor. Hope it's just a bad sending unit. If your engine runs fine with no noises then I would bet it's the sending unit or possibly the dash gauge. Either way these are the easiest and cheapest to fix.
Hope this helps some.
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:29 PM   #7
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I had a 460 in a 1997 Class C. The oil pressure started to fluctuate, got worse and when it was hot it would drop to zero. First thing I did was add an actual oil pressure gauge, I identified another oil port and plumbed in there, it was on the fly wheel end of the engine and I could access it via the dog house. It did confirm I had a problem.

The mechanic I use on "stuff" I don't want to try and fix myself agreed to look at it and also thought it was the oil pump, so he ordered one and I took the rig to him to fix. He was able to drop the pan enough to get at it working blind. He unbolted the pickup tube from the pump and left it hanging under the engine saying it is easier to do it that way (he knows what he's doing so I don't/didn't argue). He unbolted the pump and handed it to me from underneath and when I looked at it I saw that the flange that was welded to the pickup tube was still on the pump. The weld failed and it was letting the pump suck air. He had to go get another pickup tube and was able to get it all back together. Engine still had food oil pressure and in fact he knew I took good care of the RV and his dad ultimately bought it a couple years later and still has it and it's running strong.


I did report this and ~4 other problems I had with the engine/chassis to Ford for some sort of after warranty assistance and was denied. The Ford portion on the RV was terrible, the house portion was good.
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Old 10-21-2020, 07:13 PM   #8
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Well,

MY brain ain't what it used to be, not that it was ever that good in the first place but, I originally told the OP that the sending unit for oil pressure was in the back of the engine, behind the intake manifold, just above the bell housing. When I saw another persons post, showing a different location for it, I thought I'd dig around a bit on the net and see what I'd come up with. Sure enough, my brain ain't as bad as I thought.

The video shown, shows the location of that oil pressure sending unit, just where I originally said it was. And, based on the picture or, drawing I see, that's not a 460, based on the shape and style of the valve covers. So, while I'm no expert, take a look at this video to see if your engine looks like this one, and therefore, your oil pressure sending unit SHOULD be where I suggested.
Scott

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Old 10-21-2020, 08:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Well,

MY brain ain't what it used to be, not that it was ever that good in the first place but, I originally told the OP that the sending unit for oil pressure was in the back of the engine, behind the intake manifold, just above the bell housing. When I saw another persons post, showing a different location for it, I thought I'd dig around a bit on the net and see what I'd come up with. Sure enough, my brain ain't as bad as I thought.

The video shown, shows the location of that oil pressure sending unit, just where I originally said it was. And, based on the picture or, drawing I see, that's not a 460, based on the shape and style of the valve covers. So, while I'm no expert, take a look at this video to see if your engine looks like this one, and therefore, your oil pressure sending unit SHOULD be where I suggested.
Scott


You would be correct...I've notified the mods...my bad, I've been spending to much time with a chevy product...
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Old 10-22-2020, 04:36 AM   #10
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Good info on the previous posts on the no oil pressure. Here is some additional background info as I used to work on the oil indication systems years ago.
Replacing the sender with a test gage is just a proper size (NPTF) pipe thread fitting and you can purchase those from HD. For testing we actually used a T-fitting so the gage could be monitored at the same time.

The oil pressure sending units were notoriously "getting bad" although most of the time the problem was the harness "stud" connector to the sender corroding. Typically the senders (or a switch) were located towards the underside of the engine near the oil filter (although apparently not in this case) and they get corroded due to being in the elements. Once you pull the harness out of the sender, the threads may "self clean" the connection enough that now you do have connection. The mechanics either did not realize that or since they already replaced it, returned the old one for the dealer to get paid. Lots of good working parts were returned in warranty due to these connector issues before the auto companies went to the "submersible" type connectors. Submersible connectors are much higher cost but warranty costs are high also, so the trade-off was a real battle sometimes.

Also, during startup the pressure goes from 0 to well over 100 psi in certain conditions/engines but a lot of the new customers in the 80s and 90s no longer had common sense and had lots of complaints of varying oil pressure. So, all the production cars went to a switch instead and there were actually comments in some customer focus groups like "Ford finally learned to make good engines with nice steady oil pressure". So with a switch, if the oil pressure is good (typically greater than around 10 psi), the gage pointer was driven to slightly greater than mid-point.

In a nutshell dumb gages protecting dumb customers. Obviously the cost is always a factor as a switch is a lot cheaper than a sender.
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:15 AM   #11
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The only possible way to know for sure if you have oil pressure or not is to hook up a manual oil pressure gauge where the electrical sending unit is.

Just take out the old sending unit, screw in the hose to the manual gauge then start her up. If you have no oil pressure then you have a problem.
+1
If your mechanic did not verify "no oil pressure" as described above - and just jumped in and replaced the oil pump, then you need to find a new mechanic.

Good luck
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Well,
Sounds as if you may have bought a lemon. But, in reality, from what you've stated so far, it's not that bad. First, in your oil pressure issue, if that engine didn't exhibit any forms of clacking, knocking, noisy lifters, or any other form of noise due to a failed oil pump, I'd suspect the oil pressure sending unit. Mine went out in our '79 F-350 with the 460 on the way home from work one time.

Talk about PANIC!!!! I got it up into the drive way and figured, whew, that was a close one. But, then reasoning things out, like not hearing any noises, no engine catastrophes, nothing other than zero oil pressure, I reasoned it out that, hmmmm, can't be all that bad. Where's the oil pressure sending unit?

Five minutes worth of searching around and found it on the back of the engine, behind the carb, next to the bell housing. You might spring for one of those, to see if that cures your issue.

As for the belts, well, there's really only one reason those keep coming off. SOMETHING'S out of alignment. I'd eye-ball all your pullies and see if you can see any misaligned components.

Then, once that's all straightened out, I'd break out the trusty VOM or, Volt Ohm Meter and, do check all the batteries, the charging system and related components. Good luck.
Scott
Unfortunately there is the noise from the valves not having oil. Checked the sending unit and all that before removing distributor and the rod did fall down. Removed oil pan and replaced oil pump but used old pick up tube because it would have to be ordered. Put it all back together and still no pressure. Frustrated and went home. Going to tackle again tomorrow.
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Old 10-22-2020, 07:49 PM   #13
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I'm my own mechanic is probably my problem but I know there isn't oil pressure cause I could hear the valves or lifters making noise like no oil. I wished it was just the gage or sending unit as I checked the simple things first. The rod in distributor fell and was not making contact.
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Old 10-24-2020, 09:04 PM   #14
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I'm my own mechanic is probably my problem but I know there isn't oil pressure cause I could hear the valves or lifters making noise like no oil. I wished it was just the gage or sending unit as I checked the simple things first. The rod in distributor fell and was not making contact.
Soooo,
Was that your issue?
Scott
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