old gasoline in tank

[Unplanned Tourist]

I'm with the fill it up and go crowd. Maybe add some Seafoam for insurance. That's as long as the gas still smells good.
If you have been running it occasionally, my money is on you having no problems.
You will know if the gas has gone bad, it smells real bad.
Happy Glamping.

[NCC-1701A]

Originally Posted by Bahamaniac

I added stabil and filled the tank. Had no issues.

That's the question I wanted to ask. I am assuming NOT since it has not been mentioned by the OP and would make all the difference in my decision. If a proper amount of Stabil was added, then 2 1/2 years is probably OK. If not, I would have it drained and start with new fuel.

I had a boat that sat for about that length of time, but with Stabil in it. This was non-ethanol high octane gas. I siphoned it out and used it in lawn mowers over the summer. Never had a hiccup in the lawnmowers.

[wa8yxm]

Two Related stories.
In 2014 I blew an engine, Long story told elsewhere
SO I was stuck till last spring in a Georgia Campground
I had about 3/4 Tank when she went BOOM (She really went BOOM)

I did run the genny and eventually go tit down to 1/4 tank abou the time Matthew (Hurricane) came calling so I did add some fresh gas. And I SeaFoamed it when I parked it.. No fuel related issues in the year since I got the engine replaed.. One year this week in fact.

Another Workhorse Chassis in the park had sat there for longer than I was there Long term resident, Moved to an "old folks" home (Nursing or assisted living not sure which) and finally the park owner ask me to help him move it.> The gas had to be at least 5 years.. Ran like it did the day it was new once we slapped in a new battery.

I do not know if he seafoamed it ... Or not.

[bill5101]

i just had to pump 1/2 tank out of 1999 bounder ford 6.8 which was 3 years old to do e test ( ontario canada). i made a jumper cable inserted it on proper terminals of relay. connected long gas line to front of fuel filter pumped gad into 5 gal cans on bounder it was terminals 3 and 5

[Quincy]

Did not read all the posts but I agree with the Heet suggestion. Just dont get too far from a gas pump because that Heet will make the gas go through the motor just like it had a bad taco for dinner. I almost ran out of gas on the interstate some years ago and could watch the gas gage move toward empty as we drove. I would not put it in my car as if it is bad you will have six more injectors to replace at $1000 bucks a pop.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Waiter21]

i just had to pump 1/2 tank out of 1999 bounder ford 6.8 which was 3 years old to do e test ( ontario canada). i made a jumper cable inserted it on proper terminals of relay. connected long gas line to front of fuel filter pumped gad into 5 gal cans on bounder it was terminals 3 and 5

TNKS - I want to drain my tank and replace the fuel pump. There's nothing wrong with it, I'm doing it as preventative maintenance..

[MotorPro]

One can of octane booster....fill the tank and go.

[WriteOn]

Thanks for all of thoughtful replies.

Think I'll add one gallon of Seafoam to my 75 gallon gas tank and fill with fresh gas.

(Seafoam maintaince use recommends at 1 oz per gallon. For cleaning purposes, more is recommended.)

Two questions --

1) I understand Old Crows point in filling the tank diluting the gas. Will the premium gas further assist if I'm still using the Seafoam?

2) IF I have a problem, how far will I have to drive it before the problem manifest itself? The desert is, well, a rather deserted in place.

[Crasher]

Originally Posted by WriteOn

Thanks for all of thoughtful replies. I'll read up on Seafoam, Heet, and stabli. Sounds like it won't hurt anything.

My question, let's assume I add some premium gas to the tank and drive. IF there is a problem, how far will I have to drive it before the problem manifest itself? The desert is, well, rather deserted in places.

I'm not a fan of fuel additives except for Stabil and that needs to be added before storage. If your fuel smells like fresh gas and the engine runs smooth, you should be able to top it off with new and hit the road with no problems. My boat gas smelled stale after six months of several days at or above 120*. West Texas isn't as hot as Lake Havasu City, so you might be ok.

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by WriteOn

2) IF I have a problem, how far will I have to drive it before the problem manifest itself? The desert is, well, a rather deserted in place.

...


You are not going to like this answer, but it's like asking how many lottery tickets you need to buy before hitting the big prize. Bad gas can cause many kinds of engine fuel related failures ranging from a plugged fuel filter to a hole in the piston caused by low octane pinging.

[WriteOn]

Thanks. I forgot about the smell test. Will do that on Sunday.

Originally Posted by Crasher

I'm not a fan of fuel additives except for Stabil and that needs to be added before storage. If your fuel smells like fresh gas and the engine runs smooth, you should be able to top it off with new and hit the road with no problems. My boat gas smelled stale after six months of several days at or above 120*. West Texas isn't as hot as Lake Havasu City, so you might be ok.

[Old Crows]

Originally Posted by WriteOn

Thanks for all of thoughtful replies.

Think I'll add one gallon of Seafoam to my 75 gallon gas tank and fill with fresh gas.

(Seafoam maintaince use recommends at 1 oz per gallon. For cleaning purposes, more is recommended.)

Two questions --

1) I understand Old Crows point in filling the tank diluting the gas. Will the premium gas further assist if I'm still using the Seafoam?

2) IF I have a problem, how far will I have to drive it before the problem manifest itself? The desert is, well, a rather deserted in place.

FWIW, I'd stick with 87 octane (or what ever the minimum octane required for your engine). Higher octane means the fuel is more 'resistant' to ignition. While that may be a great thing for an older high compression engine to prevent 'detonation' it's not going to help if you have slightly degraded fuel. It will, most likely, exacerbate the problem of getting the fuel to 'burn' under adverse conditions.

Burning holes in pistons? Punching a hole in a piston is usually caused by very lean mixtures and high loads OR detonation. If this is an engine made in the last 25 years, it more likely, than not, will have a 'knock sensor' to prevent detonation or explosive combustion by retarding the timing (and maybe some other tricks). And it's going to have a very finely tuned fuel/air ratio controlled by computers regardless if it is carburetor or fuel injected.

The trick here is to drive it like you always drive it ... not like you stole it ... until you get a tank or two of fuel through it.

I'd be cautious about dumping a ton of Seafoam, Stabil, and other SOLVENTS into the tank. They are OK products BUT.... if you have a bit of 'gunk and crap' in the tank, you do not want to have the chemical equivalent to a nuclear bomb cutting all that stuff loose at once. They are, after all, mostly Stoddard Solvent, a fancy name for dry cleaning solvent (sold at high prices!) The 10% ethanol in the fuel is good enough to start removing any crap..... gently.

If you choose to use a fuel additive, you should consider one that has polyetheramine (PEA), there are several. Gum-out All In One, is an example.

If you store an engine for a very long time (like years), probably burn the fuel out and leave an empty tank. However, depending on storage conditions, you now have a fuel can that will internally 'sweat' and slowly develop moisture inside with changes in temperature. That leads to crap and rust in the tank if it is metal.

If you are going to store for weeks/months, it is far better to always fill the tank to diminish the air space and lessen the chance of 'sweating' inside the tank.

I hear you.... west Texas is one of the most desolate places. There's nothing out there.... not even jackrabbits! Towns are waaay far apart. They are even farther apart when your RV starts acting out. I'd spend some time driving about before setting sail for a distant town. Go over your RV with a fine tooth comb: tires, brakes, lubricants, etc.. Tank up everything. Have a plan.

[Mudfrog]

Originally Posted by WeatherTodd

I dont get this thought process?? Why do you fill a fuel tank prior to storage?
It makes ZERO sense to me to buy "perishable" fuel to sit around!

And I dont want to hear how "stabil" or "seafoam" works great for lightening wallets!

In an area where temps and humidity vary a bunch, keeping the tank filled helps keep condensation from forming inside the tank. Down here in southeast Texas, it's better to keep em filled unless the tank is drained completely.

Being one not to waste anything, i've had some experience using old gasoline. Yes, the old stuff can gum up a carburetor every once in a while. On the other hand, my fuel injected Jeeps sit for months with the same gasoline and never experience a hiccup. Except for an old ATV that i let sit up for over a year, i've never had any issues using old gas. In the OP's case, i'd add fresh gasoline to the full mark and be on my way.

My opinion is that for the vast majority of cases, lightening wallets is what these products do best. Ah shucks, you didn't want to hear that. Oppps!

[grindstone01]

I keep my gas cans empty during the winter when not being used for the mowers and such. I never had water in them after dry storage!! Why would a vehicle tank be any different?
Water in a 1/2 full fuel tank is a myth that needs to be dispelled.