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Old 02-21-2017, 11:16 PM   #1
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On board pressure washer/deionizer mod

My 2014 Itasca Ellipse has a tailgate package in one of the bays. It looks like this:
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Although I like the package, (the fridge doubles as a freezer, and the induction cook top is cool too)....I decided I wanted to redesign the whole thing. The stock package is heavy, (it's built stout) and takes up a lot of space. Plus, fully extended it's still too close to the wall of the coach to use a grill on (in my view). I have a plan to use it at my home coach pad/picnic area. More about the kitchen in another thread later.

I've observed and admired other member's mods regarding pressure washers and deionizer units. I wanted to install one myself, and redesign the outdoor kitchen to boot. So after staring at it for a while and scribbling drawings and such, I began with the pressure washer/deionizer phase.

After removing the tailgate package, this is what the bay looks like. I will move the left slide rail over. As mentioned, the bay will have a split purpose.
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My water source for the washer and deionizer is from the line running to the outdoor water hose connection. The two outlets, (one was for fridge/freezer, the other was for induction cook top), will be relocated.
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I moved the power outlets up to an out of the way location.
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Next, I built the pressure washer side of the bay out of white fiberglass. It's in picture below. It's the stuff you see on walls of public restrooms sometimes. I finished the angles with inside corner concave vinyl trim. I sealed and glued it together with this stuff.....
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I also used a new product by Eternabond. It's the same as the roof sealing tape, but no backing, leaving it sticky on both sides. Boy I'm liking that stuff, it sticks, and seals. You also can shape it, roll it into a ball or cylinder etc. I stuck the walls in place with it. If I ever want to disassemble this I can, but for now it's staying put. I trimmed the top edge of the dividing wall with C channel aluminum stock. I polished the pieces and glued them in place. The next three photos are the finished pressure washer wet bay, with the slide I mentioned earlier in it's new location.
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In my next installment I will show my location for the deionizer unit along with plumbing and more.

Best regards,
W.D.
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Old 02-22-2017, 06:56 AM   #2
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What you have there looks great and I'm looking forward to the finished project.
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Old 02-22-2017, 10:48 PM   #3
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Installment #2

I chose the CR Spotless DIW 20 deionizer. It's about two feet tall with dual tanks. So my next task was to decide where I was going to mount this thing. I found the perfect spot in the next bay forward, in the forward most part of the bay. The drain for the fresh water tank goes through the floor in that area, making it difficult to store anything there for fear of breaking the drain pipe. Tucking the CR in there will work well, and protect the drain pipe/drain valve.

I didn't fancy the idea of drilling holes in the cross member frame bracing, and the metal sheeting separating the bays isn't strong enough alone to support the CR from movement. The unit is kind of heavy, and more so when it's full of water. So, I took a piece of 2X10 wood planking, sawed it to fit between the frame cross members, and glued the pieces in place with the Eternabond two sided sealing tape and the Locktite adhesive. This will give solid backing to drill through including the metal sheeting, and secure with 5/16 bolts, washers, and aircraft nuts on the other side.
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Next, I covered the planking with more of the white fiberglass for a finished look. Note the fresh water drain. I also removed the carpeted luan backing for easier plumbing routing, you can see the exposed fresh water tank there.
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Here is the CR mounted and not yet plumbed.
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The electric pressure washer I chose was a 1700 psi 1.2 gal per minute unit from Power Stroke with soap tank auto feed. It cost $150.00 at Walmart. The flow rate is right in line with what CR Spotless requires for optimum performance of the resin.

For pipe, I chose to go the Pex route with Shark Bite quick connectors. Again, throughout this project I wanted to make everything so I can disassemble it if I have to, or choose to. I utilized three shut off valves. Valve one to allow or interrupt flow to the CR, valve two to allow or interrupt flow of regular water directly to the pressure washer, and valve three to prevent back flow of regular water to the CR when using valve two only. Valve three is on the return line from the CR at the pressure washer inlet, shared with the regular water source (braided hose).

Oh, and I also continued a water line straight through to the outside garden hose connection, not losing use of it.

So I'd use the system this way:

To wash with soap etc: Valve two open, valves one and three shut.
To rinse with deionized water: Valves one and three open, valve two shut.

Below is the unit plumbed in nestled in it's very own wet bay....I stuck the feet to the floor with the Eternabond seal tape. The unit is secure and won't jostle around....like I said, that stuff really sticks!
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On my third installment, the conclusion of this phase including pipe routing etc, with more pics of the mod.
Till then, best regards,
W.D.
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Old 02-27-2017, 12:05 AM   #4
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The first picture shows some of my pipe routing. I was able to sneak the pipe in above the outlet and switch in the top of the bay opening. There was about 5 inches of dead space there. Since taking this photo I moved the one pipe behind the line going to the outside hose hookup (like the other one) pushing it up in there further hiding the pipe a bit more where it curves (running right next to the other pipe).
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I wanted to be able to shut the bay door while using the washer. I went to the hydraulic shop nearby, and had them make me a piece of high pressure hose three feet long. One end would couple with the pressure outlet on the washer. The other end has a quick coupling male end. I drilled a hole through the floor of the bay and fed the hose through sealing with Eternabond sealant two sided tape. On the underside I fabricated an aluminum plate to give stability, again sealing with Eternabond tape. I screwed the coupling tight against the plate, squeezing the sealant tape. Back inside, I took the rubber foot from a junked out exercise machine, cut it down in height and drilled a hole in it the diameter of the hose. I fit it around the hose at the floor creating more stability, and covering all the sealant tape gooped around it, which stuck it in place also. It worked really well. The grey blob looking thing on the end of the quick coupling is a rubber cap fit on it to keep road dirt out.
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Here is the CR Spotless unit again now plumbed in.
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Here you see the fresh water tank, above it are the blue supply and return lines to the CR.
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Here is where I found the gap above the separating wall between the two bays to rout the pipe back and forth.
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One final photo of finished pressure washer/deionizer project. I added some baskets on the wet bay portion wall to hold cleaning & waxing stuff etc. The pressure wand comes apart and is tucked in around the washer, and the 50ft of pressure hose fits under the unit nicely. I also have my "garden hose" attachments that came with the coach in there too. Again, the blue pipe you see in upper left corner is not visible now.....I tucked it up further into the corner behind the door opening with the other pipe (as stated earlier).
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I'll continue with the other project phases in upcoming threads. I'll let you know how this works, hopefully it works well without leaks!

Thanks for viewing my mod!
Regards,
W.D.
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Old 02-28-2017, 04:11 AM   #5
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You do good work. Some questions:

So you didn't actually fill the former outdoor kitchen bay with anything in this phase? Did you really need to work over two bays?

The ionizer (I'm unclear on this) is for washing the MH only...no value as a water softener? A water softener (like I'm installing) won't be adequate for spot free rinse?

Do the CG's you go to allow washing onsite? If not is this mostly for home use?

There's an upright pex pipe running from floor to ceiling shown in your picture next to the drain. Do you know if it's an air vent or what? I was wondering why it would not be useful as a way to show water level in the FW tank.
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:09 PM   #6
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QUOTE=jwmaustin; You do good work. Some questions:

So you didn't actually fill the former outdoor kitchen bay with anything in this phase? Did you really need to work over two bays?

Hello Bill,
The outdoor kitchen phase is in the works, haven't got to it just yet. I originally planned to have everything in one bay. But the height of the former tailgate bay wouldn't allow for the CR unit. The next bay forward was perfect, and it tucked in there like it was made for it. I like it better there actually.

The ionizer (I'm unclear on this) is for washing the MH only...no value as a water softener? A water softener (like I'm installing) won't be adequate for spot free rinse?

There are several threads on this forum discussing this. From what I've learned, it's not the same. Deionized water is very aggressive in that the mineral and other elements causing spots including salt, (when operating at peak efficiency) PPM is ZERO. I thought both accomplished the same thing too. At my shop I used my water softener, and heated the water also, but still had some spotting. I ran filtered water through all of that as well. In one of the threads here, I posed the question; what if you ran deionized water through your water softener? Wouldn't you have the best of both worlds? Answer is no. Like I said, deionized water is aggressive, and the chemical reaction of when deionized water meets the salt water, would result in the deionized water actually attacking the salt water.
Here is CR Spotless phone number in California...(866) 350-9993. Give them a call, they'll be glad to talk to you about it. If you were to choose to purchase a CR unit, the best deal I found is from RV Upgrades.com, I searched in depth, and they're the best out there far as I could see. I will also look in my archives and find the threads I know of and put 'em in a following post for you.


Do the CG's you go to allow washing onsite? If not is this mostly for home use?

Some allow, some don't. It's just a matter of asking what their policy is on it and comply, no problem. I just roll with it whatever, it gets done sooner or later, be it at home shop or on the road.

There's an upright pex pipe running from floor to ceiling shown in your picture next to the drain. Do you know if it's an air vent or what? I was wondering why it would not be useful as a way to show water level in the FW tank.

I think it is an air vent. You know, I'll have to look close. I never really noticed the water level in the pipe, it's not very translucent so I'm not sure if I can see the water level in it.

Thanks for the compliments and questions, I appreciate it!
Best regards,
W.D.
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:49 PM   #7
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Here's one thread about the spot free rinse discussion. Only one in my archives I could locate at the moment Bill. I know there's several more if you do a little search of iRV2.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/spot...it-323076.html

Best regards,
W.D.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwmaustin View Post
You do good work. Some questions:

So you didn't actually fill the former outdoor kitchen bay with anything in this phase? Did you really need to work over two bays?

The ionizer (I'm unclear on this) is for washing the MH only...no value as a water softener? A water softener (like I'm installing) won't be adequate for spot free rinse?

Do the CG's you go to allow washing onsite? If not is this mostly for home use?

There's an upright pex pipe running from floor to ceiling shown in your picture next to the drain. Do you know if it's an air vent or what? I was wondering why it would not be useful as a way to show water level in the FW tank.

JW,

Do the CG's you go to allow washing onsite? If not is this mostly for home use?

To answer this part of your inquiries to the OP, I will say this. I'm one of those that likes a clean coach. I use the same exact CR 120 machine as the OP has just installed. This is my second one. From much experience, it does an outstanding job of ZERO water spots on any part of the coach, including windows, chrome and polished aluminum wheels.

Now, you ask the question above. Knowing the response of many campground owners/operators when asked if I could wash the coach off would be NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT, (very few say yes but, with limitations), I do the next best thing. While traveling, I will find, any one of the next best places to wash/rinse the coach off.

1. Large, unused parking lots. i.e. Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, shopping center etc.
2. Possible rest stop if, it's large enough that my washing operation won't interfere with ANY patrons AT ALL.

Now before anyone here gets their panties in a wad, I'm ultra conservative when I wash my vehicles, EVEN AT HOME. I use as little water as possible. I too have a very small electric pressure washer that I carry. It's a 1.5 gpm @ about 1300 psi. I can wash and rinse that coach, with so little water that, you don't even see any run-off, running down any gutters, streets, or parking lots.

When traveling, If we decide on a parking lot of say, Home Depot, I'll sit back and watch the parking lot for a few minutes to see if the area that we may want to use for a wash of the coach, is used by delivery trucks etc. If not, I move in. Between getting things ready for the wash which include:

1. Getting the pressure washer out and setup
2. Getting my fold-able ladder out and setup,
3. Getting my extend-able wash brush out and ready
4. Getting a bucket with clean, micro-fiber towels out and ready

and a good wash, rinse and drying of the coach, and then put all that stuff away, we're in their parking lot a maximum of real close to 45-50 minutes, TOPS!
And when we drive away, as stated above, there's almost no water run off, no mess, nothing. We don't do this every day, every trip. But, if the coach is "ugly" enough, and based on the type and style of campground we're headed to, (knowing they'd say no to washing it), I'll give her a bath prior to arriving. We love this coach and its looks. It's nice to pull into a campground, ANY campground with a clean, sparkling coach.
Scott
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:55 AM   #9
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Hello there Scott, well said. I follow about the same habits, and like I say, some campgrounds have allowed and some don't. I operate conservatively as well, use common sense, and comply with policy, and all is right in the world. Thanks for posting!

Regards,
W.D.
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Old 03-01-2017, 01:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Electra 225 View Post
Hello there Scott, well said. I follow about the same habits, and like I say, some campgrounds have allowed and some don't. I operate conservatively as well, use common sense, and comply with policy, and all is right in the world. Thanks for posting!

Regards,
W.D.

W.D.,
Roger that Sir.
Scott

P.S. By the way, while at the annual Quartzsite RV event this last January, I spoke with the reps from CR Spotless Di Water and, we talked about the water conditions in both San Diego (where CR Spotless is based and, where we used to live) and where we live now, in Lake Havasu City AZ. The water in San Diego is fairly hard water and therefore, it take's its toll on the chemicals and resin in the CR machine. The harder the water, the shorter the life of the resin.

When we moved to Lake Havasu, we found out the water is like BRICKS, in terms of hardness. It's going to have a serious effect on the life of our brand new CR unit. But, in speaking with the rep at the show, he asked, if we had/have a soft water system installed for the house. I replied we do and, have a soft water spigot in the garage. He said: "That's great". The reason is, if you use soft water in the CR system, the resin will/should last several times longer than it would using the un-treated water from a regular spigot.

So, this is going to be a grand experiment.
Scott
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Old 03-01-2017, 03:22 PM   #11
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Ok so maybe soft water 1st deionized second will work then. I was in another discussion on this, and someone said the deionizer would take the salt right back out of the soft water. But you heard from the CR people so, they should know. As I said earlier, the CR folks told me that deionized water 1st, soft water 2nd would not work, (other way around).

Anyway, please report back on this thread on how your configuration performs. I may do the same thing at my home shop. Some wells in Iowa can be harder than the hubs of hell.

Regards,
W.D.
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Old 03-01-2017, 07:56 PM   #12
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Ok so maybe soft water 1st deionized second will work then. I was in another discussion on this, and someone said the deionizer would take the salt right back out of the soft water. But you heard from the CR people so, they should know. As I said earlier, the CR folks told me that deionized water 1st, soft water 2nd would not work, (other way around).

Anyway, please report back on this thread on how your configuration performs. I may do the same thing at my home shop. Some wells in Iowa can be harder than the hubs of hell.

Regards,
W.D.
W.D.,
Well, I attached the hose from my soft water spigot into the "IN" port of the CR system and, put on my "As seen on TV" expandable 50' hose on the "OUT" port. I used their gun for water control and kept it either in "Fan" or "Center cone" for the appropriate water flow. I then washed our 2015 Jeep JKUR which is Hydro Blue. Water spots can be seen on that Jeep from the next zip code.
As soon as I finished with that car, I immediately dove into washing our 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 which is Flame Red and, water spots on that truck can be seen from the next STATE!

Both were dripping wet when I walked away from them and went on to other projects. I came back to both about 45 minutes later and, vuallllllaaaaa, ZERO water spots, ANYWHERE! So, did hooking up the soft water to the unit help? In reality, I cannot tell you if it did, or didn't. I had the same ZERO water spot results the very first time I used my first CR unit about 5 years ago, with no soft water hooked to it.

But, what remains to be seen is, the length of time the resins remain active and produce NO WATER SPOT WATER based on the use of the soft water being introduced in the IN port. Time will tell.
Scott
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:11 PM   #13
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Sounds like it works. They at CR have told me that a configuration as you have it will work the resin harder. ? I first asked about running deionized water into the softener, then other way 'round. They kinda indicated it wouldn't play well either way. Heck I guess take note of how long your resin lasts compared to non soft water going in. If it's longer, shorter, or no different. Like I say, sounds like it works for you so......

Thanks for the info Scott, have a good one!

W.D.
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:52 AM   #14
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Thanks to both you WD and Scott, I ordered the CR to wash my new Motorhome. That's the great thing about this forum, so many helpful people willing to share ideas and information.
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Tom and Gloria 2022 Newmar Dutch Star 4081, TOAD: 2017 Buick Enclave/2023 GMC Sierra Denali, Blue Ox Towbar, Baseplate and M&G Braking System
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