Painted Decals

[REDEYE50]

I know there is a thread somewhere on this , but I can't find it. Has anyone painted over the decals on the side of your MH? Ours is a 1992 Winnebago Adventure, The decals are cracked and faded. They are all straight lined. I know this is not ideal but want it to last for a couple of years. Just want to spruce it up a bit. If you have done this, what steps did you use? Clean, sand, mask and paint? What type of paint? Thanks

[Wizard]

I am in the process of removing and painting mine, got the back side done so far.
Removed with a vinyl removal wheel and painted with urethane paint from Eastwood. putting wax on now.
planning to start on the front side in a couple of weeks.

[keger]

Wizard,
Wow sounds great post some pictures. It would be great if you have before and after your work.

[homerbw]

I'm thinking about doing this but want to caution that you need to use a paint with UV protection. I plan to use automotive paint.

[REDEYE50]

what I had in mind was Not to remove old decals, just to paint over them. I know this is not the best idea. Just wondering if anybody had tried this and what the outcome for short term. May decide and trade next year. Thanks

[Rkesselus]

To accomplish this task if there are cracking or glazing of the decals use a good body glazing over the cracks followed by scuff sanding the decal and smoothing out the glazing over the cracks. best bet is to use a base coat clear coat auto paint or just go for a rattle can application. you will not get a professional auto body paint job but it will effeminately improve the look. Some refer to this a a 10 foot paint job. (looks good 10 foot away) If you do make sure you dont skimp on the masking tape. Use Frog tape or other major brand clean line tape.

[masdixdragon]

before you do this I would highly recommend test spotting with the paint you are intending to use...many automotive grade paints may have "hot" enough solvents that could alligator or lift existing decals....ideally its always best to remove to a clean surface, as even the best paint over a poor substrate will be a poor result...honestly any money and time spent would be 100% at risk not finding a way to remove them IMHO...but Im just a NACE & SSPC certified QC guy so I might be a bit jaded

[REDEYE50]

Originally Posted by Rkesselus

To accomplish this task if there are cracking or glazing of the decals use a good body glazing over the cracks followed by scuff sanding the decal and smoothing out the glazing over the cracks. best bet is to use a base coat clear coat auto paint or just go for a rattle can application. you will not get a professional auto body paint job but it will effeminately improve the look. Some refer to this a a 10 foot paint job. (looks good 10 foot away) If you do make sure you dont skimp on the masking tape. Use Frog tape or other major brand clean line tape.

thanks, what kind of body glazing compund would you recommend? Your 10 ft paint job is just like my 60mph paint job (looks good going down the road at 60mph). That's what I am looking for . LOL

[Sweetbriar]

Did my coach but only the black decal that was sun stocked. The silver and gray are holding up well. If you paint over the old decals the end result is going to be very dependent on the features of the surface you are painting. If the decals are cracked and puckered then the paint will look the same.

I stripped off the old decal which took a day and several 3M Stripe Off Wheel. The sidewall where the decal used to be was pure white which made masking pretty easy by following the shadow. There's a Sherwin-Williams automotive paint store not far from home and had them mix up a color the Navigator liked using single stage paint. Single stage paint work very well. No clear coat needed. Also had extra UV block added to the paint. Paint was about $125 for a quart.

Waiting of good weather to paint was the hardest part. Warm, low humidity and low winds for a driveway paint job. Took a morning to mask and maybe an hour for three coats. It's not perfect but I'm happy with the end result. Call it a 30-30 paint job. 30' or 30 MPH, if you can't see it then it's not there.

Total cost was around $250 for paint, masking material, a paint gun and the 3M wheels. Already had the compressor. Took two days to paint (one for each side) and a day to strip the old decal. Spend the extra for automotive paint. Krylon and Rustoleum rattle can paint is quick and easy but will not last very long out in the elements.

[keger]

Great job, do you lone yourself out 😁😁

[Sunny1]

Here’s a thread on someone painting over decals. It may be the one you recall seeing.


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/paint...ls-261418.html

[REDEYE50]

Originally Posted by sunny1

here’s a thread on someone painting over decals. It may be the one you recall seeing.


http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/paint...ls-261418.html

thanks, helps alot!

[Rkesselus]

Originally Posted by REDEYE50

thanks, what kind of body glazing compund would you recommend? Your 10 ft paint job is just like my 60mph paint job (looks good going down the road at 60mph). That's what I am looking for . LOL

I used Bondo with activator.(just like bondo where you have to mix in catalyst) May be hard to find, I found it at O'Rileys

or Eastwood contour glazing.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-co...a8e4b0755b8f7a

[Wizard]

My before and after pics, only painted the white and stripes