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Old 06-11-2017, 11:26 AM   #15
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Pieces if 2x10 or 12 works for me...I like to glue / screw a couple of scraps of board to each end prevents a split or at least keeps both pieces together.
Drill a hole and tie 2 ft of 1/4 in line to them so you can toss them under a rig and pull them back into position and retrieve them easily...beats kneeling in the mud on a rainy day!
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Old 06-11-2017, 12:10 PM   #16
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
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I look at it differently. I don't want camping to include 45 minutes of set up. When we arrive at a campground, we're sitting in our outside chairs in about 20 minutes. After you've camped for awhile, you'll pretty much know when pads are needed, which is rare. Second, you can buy nice plastic pads at a reasonable price. I carry two of the 14" x 14" waffle shaped plastic pads for my front jacks, as my rear jack pads are 12" in diameter. I also carry a couple of cheap cutting boards for the rear when a campground wants pads under all jacks......only one place like this that we camp at occasionally, Williams Railroad RV Park, south of the Grand Canyon.

I know wood is cheap, but it's heavy, gets nasty after a few uses, especially in gravel and takes a fair amount of storage space. You can buy a pair of nice jack pads for about $50.00 - $80.00. Sounds like a lot until you think about the time it takes to make wood pads, paint them, try and clean the gravel that gets stuck in them, and the size and weight. It's a one time purchase which will last as long as you RV.
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Old 06-11-2017, 07:37 PM   #17
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1doodadd what do those cost the site doesn't price them?
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Old 06-11-2017, 08:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ramblingpair View Post
Snap Pad has been a great product for us in our Class A. We have the Snap Pad prime as our coach has the power gear levelers. Once installed, they stay on permanently and never come off. If I remember correctly, they gave us over 300% more surface area contact per foot pad. Hope this helps!

We live ours. Once installed and done. No deploying, storing and cleaning wood blocks. Not that expensive.
Taking in the sights with our Trolley ...but life is always better under a Palm Tree
2016 Coachmen Mirada 35 BH. - our Trolley
2016 Jeep Cherokee Latitude, Western New York
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:21 AM   #19
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We have a 42' American Eagle. Bought the utility blocks, same as RV Geeks on YouTube. Little expensive but they work great. Got them on Amazon. My time is money. Wood works, but after cutting & preparing, the utility blocks made more sense.
Full time and loving it!
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:28 AM   #20
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I used 2/10 two feet long.two of them cracked in half.So I reinforced them with half inch plywood ....hope that will help..I have a 2000 H/R 36 ft gasser...the crack happen on dirt or grass never on pavement
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:38 PM   #21
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Purchased 1 sheet 3/4" Treated plywood at Home Depot. Had them saw it up into 16" x 16" squares. Laminated 3 layers together with deck screws and white glue. Screwed an eye bolt into 1 edge. Sawed off an old broom handle to 4' and screwed a hook into the end. Use handle to locate and pull out pads. Easily supports my 40' coach.
Makes 4 pads, plus a few extra 3/4" pieces for levelling other stuff. Total cost less than $ 50.
2014 Newmar Ventana 4037 / 4018
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Old 06-13-2017, 04:00 PM   #22
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The use of ANY blocks, wood, plastic or otherwise, is just a matter of choice. It's also a matter of how well you treat your coaches dynamics in terms of how far you plan on lifting it, in one corner etc. because you don't feel like using leveling blocks. Again, a matter of choice. I've made and have been using wood blocks for decades. And, the way I make them, they LAST for decades. Nominal wood, i.e. 2"x 8" and 2" x 10" etc, will crack, it's a given, just when, it's a matter of time.
But, I sandwich my nominal wood in between 1 1/8" decking plywood that is tongue and groove stuff. It's seriously strong stuff. Yeah, wood is a bit heavy but, SO IS THE COACH! I have the yellow leggo blocks too from C/W and, some ramps I've made along with some 11"x 11" x 6" jack blocks.

And we've needed them countless times. We camp in N/F campgrounds, State campgrounds and private campgrounds, all of which have had countless spots that were unlevel. And all this crap about "Well, if it's un level, just move to another spot". Yeah sure you will. With the amount of folks camping/living/staying/retired etc. out there filling up all the campgrounds, just "moving to another site" AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN!

So, we've made do, countless times with our small lumber yard we carry. Again, it's a matter of choice. Sure, if the sites level within reason, as I can tell when I approach it, then there's no blocks/ramps needed and, I drive up and, set the brake and hit the HWH Power button twice which, auto bleeds the bags and, set's in motion, the auto leveling system. DONE!

2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '18 Honda Africa Twin Adventure Sports DCT
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:59 PM   #23
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I also use the Dica pads. We had some concrete work done at our house and the concrete pump truck was using them. Figured if they could stabilize a pumping truck they would stabilize my motorhome
2006 Monaco Diplomat
2017 JKU Sport Toad
and a garage full of Harleys
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