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Old 07-07-2021, 10:46 AM   #29
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Tire wear wasqqqqq

When i worked for both Ryder an Hertz on the over the road trucks those guys see ALOT of different types of tire wear, and perhaps stopping by an talking with the service managers an show them the pics they too may have some pertinent information they could add an they wouldnt be trying to sell you anything. However with tires an cupping we always try to belive it has to do with the tire or rim, not always so. A lot of times it can be the rotating mass that causes issues that SHOW UP AS TIRE WEAR, and the tires are the window that show you the result. When i worked on 18 wheelers we would go thru front tires ALOT, an mostly the cause was due to cupping, that once it starts there is no way to save the tire other than to rotate it to the rear axel an put a new set up front. Because of issues like this i started doing some research an found a company called Centramatic, one of there claims is to solve the cupping issues by balancing the entire rotating mass, right down to NOT needing to balancing the tires at all��! It might be worth the call to them or there website www.centeramatic.com to see if there product could be of any help they have a video “what is an out of balance assembly and what are the consequences” if for nothing else is food for thought, good luck
Sorry about the thread header, it wouldnt correct after i went on to story
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Old 07-07-2021, 10:58 AM   #30
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My first thought wit cupping is out balance??? But that is normally random on the tread. on the steer tires it could be lose wheel bearings. Since its on the edges, it could be underinflated with some other issue. .

Take it to a true truck tire shop or alignment shop. They should be able to read the tire.
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Old 07-07-2021, 11:28 AM   #31
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Just to jump in here, when we purchased our 'new to us' 2004 Fleetwood pace Arrow 37c, the dealer threw in a new set of Sailun tires at my request.
I insisted on balance beads in all 6 tires, even though they said "we never balance duals ". I told them if the don't put them in, it's a deal breaker..........
I watched them do it, and now with 22K on Our clock, she still rides like glass and no unusual tire wear.
The Sailuns sing a bit at 68+ but we seldom drive that fast. Usually 62 -65 is good enough.

Mike in Colorado
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Old 07-07-2021, 07:34 PM   #32
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Search or call here for Bilstein shock absorbers for your chassis: https://www.shockwarehouse.com/index...de=make&type=M
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Old 07-08-2021, 05:30 AM   #33
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I think the centramatics sounds like a good idea. I think there would be a significant out of balance using these prior to reaching a speed where the balls can disperse, but apparently balance below 20 or 25mph is not important or noticeable?

I called Bilstein before we went on our trip last month. They obsoleted the shock absorbers for this chassis in 2015, and do not have a replacement available. They put me in touch with a guy who purchased all of their old stock... but he’s not easy to deal with and so far no luck with him.

I thought I had a lead on an old timer with a tire truing machine, but turns out he sold it a few years back to someone out of state. There might not be any hope of salvaging these tires. They will be shot within 5000 miles and I’m limited to 60mph before they start shaking. C’est la vie.

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Old 07-12-2021, 12:23 PM   #34
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I have read a few posts where people indicated they added centramatics to a steer tire set that was rivering, and it eventually scrubbed itself of the river wear. I’m thinking these tires are beyond that, but I ordered a set of centramatics today anyways. It sounds like they are backlogged... 4 week delivery.

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Old 07-12-2021, 08:29 PM   #35
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I have Centramatics on all four corners. I don't know about scrubbing rivering but they do balance the wheels. They were original in 1993.

BTW, did you check actual allowable pressures for your tires? I suspect you're running underinflated.
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Old 07-12-2021, 09:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmcdog View Post
Crazy thing, trailer would ware one tire like that and the one next to it would be fine. ???????
Differing wear on tandem tires would strongly suggest a rim issue. Trailer tires do tend to hit kerbs. I would suspect the OP has some run out on his MH and a set of new rims will cure his problem.
I hope so and wish him luck.[/QUOTE]

When duals are bolted side by side; circumferential mismatch will set an odd wear pattern into a tire. We measure and match ours to within 1/4 inch in circumference. Unbalanced air pressure on dual wheel sets can also produce a mismatched circumference wear pattern. Patterns that begin when the tire is new, quite often are not noticed until the tire wears in a ways. If something as simple as an air pressure adjustment is used to cure the problem; it is doubtful that you will see a change in the wear pattern of the affected tire because the face of the tire, rivers, cupping and most all other patterns continue to wear with the tire as it wears out.
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Old 07-12-2021, 09:33 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by rikadoo View Post
When i worked for both Ryder an Hertz on the over the road trucks those guys see ALOT of different types of tire wear, and perhaps stopping by an talking with the service managers an show them the pics they too may have some pertinent information they could add an they wouldnt be trying to sell you anything. However with tires an cupping we always try to belive it has to do with the tire or rim, not always so. A lot of times it can be the rotating mass that causes issues that SHOW UP AS TIRE WEAR, and the tires are the window that show you the result. When i worked on 18 wheelers we would go thru front tires ALOT, an mostly the cause was due to cupping, that once it starts there is no way to save the tire other than to rotate it to the rear axel an put a new set up front. Because of issues like this i started doing some research an found a company called Centramatic, one of there claims is to solve the cupping issues by balancing the entire rotating mass, right down to NOT needing to balancing the tires at all��! It might be worth the call to them or there website www.centeramatic.com to see if there product could be of any help they have a video “what is an out of balance assembly and what are the consequences” if for nothing else is food for thought, good luck
Sorry about the thread header, it wouldnt correct after i went on to story
My dad was an over the road owner operator in the early 60's. He told me about guys that would put a quart of anti-freeze in each front tire to balance them. I don't know how well that worked; it would be the forerunner of tire balancing fluid. I think liquid would do a better job of balancing than powder or beads though.
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Old 07-13-2021, 04:00 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by johnhicks View Post
I have Centramatics on all four corners. I don't know about scrubbing rivering but they do balance the wheels. They were original in 1993.

BTW, did you check actual allowable pressures for your tires? I suspect you're running underinflated.

The placard in the motorhome does not have the correct unladen weight - by about 3,000 lbs. It also says to use 80psi front, 90 rear. This isn't even close to the inflation chart recommendation for the actual weight. The first set of tires I am sure I had under inflated because i went with what was on the placard. When I later had the axles weighed, I went by the chart.


Here is the chart for the Bridgestones.


I realize that the inflation pressures are the minimum inflation to carry the load, but the max inflation and load is the max inflation and load - period. For these F load range tires, it's 95psi cold, and 3640lbs. They are 225's - not 245's. I have been running 90 based on axle weight - I bumped it up to 95. I am guessing it's too late for these tires to make a difference.


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Old 07-21-2021, 05:04 PM   #39
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So Centramatic was just teasing about the lead time. 4 weeks was more like 4 days. I got them Tuesday and installed that night. They certainly work as advertised. Like I said earlier, these tires are too far gone, and they still shake at speeds above 65mph cause they aren’t round anymore. I’ll just have to wait and see what happens. With the increased pressure putting more wear on the center of the tire now, and the better balancing from the centramatics, maybe I get some more good life out of them. If I can remember, I’ll report back after a few thousand miles... probably next year.

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Old 07-22-2021, 05:04 AM   #40
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Find the tire

If it was me i would move the front ones To the rear axle and then I would move the rear axle tires up to the front steering axle. That way if there is a tire failure you will still have control...
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Old 07-22-2021, 10:13 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikadoo View Post
If it was me i would move the front ones To the rear axle and then I would move the rear axle tires up to the front steering axle. That way if there is a tire failure you will still have control...
Not an option here since the tires we’re replaced at different times and have different wear and diameters. I don’t think the tires are in a condition where failure is imminent.

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Old 03-18-2022, 11:23 PM   #42
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Reviving an old thread - and I need some insight. We were planning a trip this summer, and I just didn't want to deal with the vibration of out of round steer tires with the river wear, so I sprung for a new set of Toyo M143's for the steer axle. I didn't need G-load range, but that's what I bought thinking that a little more pressure might help reduce this type of wear.

I quickly discovered that the G's are just too rough riding at anything above 95 psi, so I should have probably just stuck with the F's.
The biggest issue though, is that I STILL have a vibration even with brand new tires when I get up between 65 and 70mph. There can only be a couple of options to explain this, but it seems like I can rule out most of them. Please help - this is irritating me...

  • Tires are junk (not likely? Toyo's seem well recommended on the forums and I've had this issue with other tires as well)
  • Tires not balanced - (Cant be the case - spin balanced and I'm using Centramatics to boot.)
  • Rims are too far out of round (I ran an indicator on them - .040 out of round which doesn't seem like too much)
  • The ball seats on the rim for the lug nuts are worn out - potentially they have been torqued to high a time or two because I see a slight burr rolled up around the top edge of each hole... thoughts?
  • Maybe I actually have a rear tire that is out of balance, and I just can't tell??
Please offer some suggestions... I just can't figure this out, and I'm not getting the mileage out of the tires that I think I should be. New Accuride steel wheels are gonna run be $500+so I don't want to replace them and end up without any improvement.



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