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Old 10-15-2017, 10:14 AM   #15
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There is a diode in one of the fuse panels - it is a plug in like a fuse. Burned to a crisp. I will replace that and let you know if it worked. Thanks to all who helped
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:15 AM   #16
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None of the fuse boxes are labeled.

Looked at the one above the steering wheel in the dash. None of the fuses are labeled in human readable form. One fuse is labeled f22 for example

Looked at the fuse panel under the front hood. Fuses seem ok. I will test each of these fuses with the com to confirm.
Its never easy lol. Blade fuses can be tested in-place with a continuity (ohm) meter setting. Touch the two probes to the back of the fuse - there are little metal prongs. Saves pulling each one. You probably already know this, but just in case.
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:13 AM   #17
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If you do not have a multi-meter get ye to an auto parts store... They have a device called an "Automotive Test Lamp" this is shaped like an old fashion ice pick with a tool with a pointed end (NOTE: Can be used as an ice pick) a clear or colored translucent/transparent plastic handle with a wire coming out of it and a clip/clamp on the end of the wire.

Start at the batteries: Touch the tip to Positive and the clamp to negative BRIGHT LIGHT = GOOD TEST NO light.. well every one I've bought gave me that on the first test.. so I opened it up and re=seated the lamp then it worked.

Then move the clip to chassis ground.. Then move out along the positive wire.

Or as someone else said start at the starter.. Though I do not think that is the wire where the issue will be.

Hopefully you will find a fuse or resettable breaker because the other option can get EXPENSIVE.
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:25 PM   #18
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Both sets of batteries are good. I do not have a digiital multi meter so voltages are best guess at between 12 and 13 volts. Batteries were new in may this year.
How can you know that both sets of batteries are good? If you do not test them with a meter, they could be producing 9 volts, enough for some lights to light, but not enough to make other devices work.

When diagnosing problems, there is a difference between 'I think it looks good' and 'it was tested and is good'.
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Old 10-15-2017, 05:19 PM   #19
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Ok problem solved.

There were two fuses blown in addition to the melted diode.

One fuse was for he fuel system and the other was for the transmission.

The two fuses were replaced - no joy engine alarms returned to normal but trans temperature constant alarm with trans temp cycling between 150 and 225.

Still no start

The mechanic suggested to start the engine by manually activating the solenoid. We did that. The trans fuse blew again was replaced all is working fine. The mechanic said that in his experience that that sometimes works. I am sure that replacing the trans module would have fixed it too.

The diode is for the engine brake circuit and so is not an issue.

Thanks again to all who helped.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:11 PM   #20
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Ok problem solved.

There were two fuses blown in addition to the melted diode.

One fuse was for he fuel system and the other was for the transmission.

The two fuses were replaced - no joy engine alarms returned to normal but trans temperature constant alarm with trans temp cycling between 150 and 225.

Still no start

The mechanic suggested to start the engine by manually activating the solenoid. We did that. The trans fuse blew again was replaced all is working fine. The mechanic said that in his experience that that sometimes works. I am sure that replacing the trans module would have fixed it too.

The diode is for the engine brake circuit and so is not an issue.

Thanks again to all who helped.
Moral of the Story - ALWAYS TAKE A PICTURE BEFORE UNHOOKING WIRES -

This is something easy and will save many a Mistake in the future.

Glad you solved it - Best of Luck,
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Old 10-16-2017, 10:10 AM   #21
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you know i go a step further than pictures my cables all look the same. So i bought red tape, i run a loop around the positive cables so i do not mess them up.

I have no idea why they used all red end on my battery connection but they are all red. The tape made it more idiot proof for me
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:38 PM   #22
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If you can get to the starter solenoid try jumping it while the ignition key is on.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:42 PM   #23
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Its never easy lol. Blade fuses can be tested in-place with a continuity (ohm) meter setting. Touch the two probes to the back of the fuse - there are little metal prongs. Saves pulling each one. You probably already know this, but just in case.
Not a good idea if the fuse is always hot! Always check an installed fuse for voltage before testing for continuity. Some of the lower cost multimeters will not survive voltage when set for resistance (ohms). If there is power from one side of the fuse to ground, then check the fuse by taking a voltage measurement across both prongs (as described). If the fuse is good there is no potential across the fuse (no voltage indicated), but if the fuse is bad there will be voltage indicated (due to potential across break).
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Old 10-17-2017, 06:54 PM   #24
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. . . but if the fuse is bad there will be voltage indicated (due to potential across break).
Only try if the supplied load is turned on.
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Old 10-18-2017, 01:32 AM   #25
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Only try if the supplied load is turned on.
Ooops, true. Need a path to ground (potential reference point).
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