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Old 06-23-2021, 03:07 PM   #1
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Plug in 30amp RV to home outlet?

I'd like to prepare my refrigerator prior to my trip, but I don't have 30 amp outlet at home, so how do I solve this ? What type of converter do I get from 110 to 30 amps?, I don't want to fry my RV or home, thanks.
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Old 06-23-2021, 03:09 PM   #2
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You can find a "dogbone" adapter that will step the connection down for you. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Camper-Adapte...s%2C238&sr=8-2 Just be careful how much power you try to pull (I don't use the AC at all when doing this)
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Old 06-23-2021, 03:23 PM   #3
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Walmart also carries that same adapter.

I assume you know it will take about 24 hours for an RV refrigerator to cool down.
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Old 06-23-2021, 03:29 PM   #4
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In addition, you may need to find an outlet that is not GFCI protected. A lot of times RV power systems do not play well with GFCIs and can cause them to trip.
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Old 06-23-2021, 03:33 PM   #5
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Walmart also carries that same adapter.

I assume you know it will take about 24 hours for an RV refrigerator to cool down.
I can hookup my truck and tow my travel trailer about 3 hours, and by the time we arrive at our campsite, a drink I toss in the freezer is starting to freeze. Not sure it takes 24 hours.

My old popup trailer refrigerator would take at least 18 hours to cool down.

My popup came with the type like ThomB linked to. My travel trailer had an adapter like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14101...4483872&sr=8-6

In my mind, not having a foot long cord is an advantage and reduces any voltage drops, but what do the old hands think?
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:00 PM   #6
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.... What type of converter do I get from 110 to 30 amps?, I don't want to fry my RV or home, thanks.
To use more correct language you are adapting a plug that can carry 30 amps to plug that will fit and outlet that carries 15 or 20 amps.

Last week I was at a campground that had a 30 amp outlet. I used a dogbone adapter to go from my 50 amp plug to the 30 amp outlet.

I was gone and came back in the afternoon and wanted to run both air conditioners to cool it down fast.

I recommend getting a power meter. I like this one because it has a higher rating: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

On the voltage setting I was able to check that voltage went from 121 vac to 117 vac with both A/C running.

At my son's house I installed an outlet for the MH in a 20 amp kitchen circuit. Because of the covid thing I was running one A/C. We noticed outlets on the circuit were very hot even when not in use.

I discovered all the outlets in the older part of the house were not correctly wired for 20 amp service.

Being concern about 'frying' wires is important.
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:05 PM   #7
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I have a 20 amp outlet in my garage (2 actually. One for our central Vacuum system and another one in the back storage room. I use a thick extension cord ( I forget what gauge), run it to the trailer and use a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter. I can charge my battery and run the 13,500 BTU AC if I need to. I do not turn the hot water heater on and if I use the microwave I turn the AC off. The connection between the 30 am adapter and the extension cord is usually warm if I've been running the AC. But it seems to work ok
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:11 PM   #8
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In addition, you may need to find an outlet that is not GFCI protected. A lot of times RV power systems do not play well with GFCIs and can cause them to trip.
My first choice would be a GFCI.
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:24 PM   #9
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You should have a propane option on the frig., use it over night.
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:35 PM   #10
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Yes, this might work, thanks.
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:37 PM   #11
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I used this plug, along with my surge protector, house fuse blew and surge protector went dark.
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:46 PM   #12
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Not sure what is tripping your house fuse, but most absorption refrigerators have a 120 VAC male plug accessible from the outside refrigerator door.


BUT (yes, large BUT) you will need 12VDC to the refrigerator, as that is what runs the PC board.


So, if you have battery voltage over 12.0 VDC and just plug in the refrigerator male plug, it should work. If not, the is a dead short in the refrigerator heating element.
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:51 PM   #13
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My coach stays plugged in at home on a 20 amp circuit 24/7. The residential refrigerator stays running all the time and I run one roof air-conditioner when I'm working out there. It works out to 14 amps for the air conditioner and 2 amps for the refrigerator. But I have only been doing this for 20 years now, so take my comments with a grain of salt.
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Old 06-25-2021, 11:40 AM   #14
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Using the 30 amp to 15 amp adapter will work, but be sure to turn off the AC breaker. We damaged the compressor on ours using that adapter as the AC draws too much amperage.

On many units the Dometic fridge has a standard 120VAC plug inside the ventilated outer cover where the drain tube sticks out. So, you could plug that into any outdoor rated standard extension cord and have no worries.
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