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04-05-2018, 09:12 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 195
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POLL: Which radiator type
I need to replace the radiator in my side radiator Spartan. I have 2 choices I'm torn between the choices they are both from C,G&J radiator that has great respect from many members here. Cost aside which would you suggest? Thanks for your feedback.
1) an all aluminum radiator.
2) a copper/brass radiator
__________________
2002 DSDP 4097
2009 Jeep Liberty Toad
If you can't fix it with Duct tape, you must have an electrical problem
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04-05-2018, 09:22 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: On the Road
Posts: 281
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Aluminum wins all day in every way... I’ve had some experience in the industry FWIW... Also, don’t get stuck on 1 manufacturer as sometimes 1 is making for others....Personally I would not want a COPPER/BRASS radiator... EVER!
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04-05-2018, 09:33 PM
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#3
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 49
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Can a aluminum be repaired like a copper/brass radiator??
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04-05-2018, 09:46 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 2,514
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__________________
2005 Tiffin Allegro Bay 37DB
W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1 Flat Towing a 82 Jeep CJ7
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04-05-2018, 09:56 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7365
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I have read that several times and both have their weak and strong points.
I am leaning towards the aluminum unit but was looking for guidance from those that have real world experience with rv cooling. If it were for my muscle car I know what my choice would be.
__________________
2002 DSDP 4097
2009 Jeep Liberty Toad
If you can't fix it with Duct tape, you must have an electrical problem
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04-05-2018, 11:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Warren, Oregon
Posts: 2,560
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4 what it's worth, I have a STEEL & COPPER Bolt Together Radiator w/ updated rubber mounting and using Cat ELC coolant with no problems. Replace 6 years ago plus close to 75% of the Country Coaches have had there radiators replace because of bad aluminum radiators.
Mine came from https://radiatorsupplyhouse.com/products/motorhomes-rv/
installed by Quinn Cat in California.
2 stroker
__________________
2006 Country Coach Inspire 360 40ft Genoa Designer Series, Samsung 197 RR
Cat C9--STEEL & COPPER Bolt Together Radiator w/ updated rubber mounting
SilverLeaf 330 Magnum 2812 PSW 2011 Ford Edge Sport-Air Force One
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04-05-2018, 11:59 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 9,941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragtop69GS
I need to replace the radiator in my side radiator Spartan. I have 2 choices I'm torn between the choices they are both from C,G&J radiator that has great respect from many members here. Cost aside which would you suggest? Thanks for your feedback.
1) an all aluminum radiator.
2) a copper/brass radiator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n5979u
Can a aluminum be repaired like a copper/brass radiator??
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To answer both of these with one answer. A short story. About 6 years ago, right after we purchased our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, it developed a radiator leak. I couldn't actually see where it was coming from, there was just a puddle below it, every now and then. Well, I determined it wasn't any thing attached like hoses. It was in the structure part of the radiator.
So, out it came. It was the factory aluminum/plastic (tanks) radiator. What was leaking was the clamp area where the drivers side tank met the aluminum. It was completely rotted down there. Well, when I presented this condition to a very, very experienced radiator repair shop foreman, he laughed and said "junk". I said you're calling my $1,700 Freightliner radiator "Junk"? He said "yep".
He then pointed to a shelf in his shop. It was LOADED with aluminum radiators that he and his team were not able to repair. I said well, OK, I'll go back home and order up a new Freightliner radiator which, would take me about 14-21 days to get. He said: :Whoooooaaa, not fast"! He took some quick measurements and, he and I entered his office. He got onto the computer and, within one minute, he found an exact replacement, only it was COPPER/BRASS.
I asked him three quick questions.
1. What's the cost?
2. What kind of time frame to get it?
3. What's the cooling differences?
1. $1,200 vs $1,750
2. He could have it the NEXT MORNING!
3. ZERO COOLING DIFFERENCES. They both cool the same.
Guess what, that copper/brass radiator has been in our coach now for right at 6 years and cools flawlessly. I'd go with another one in heartbeat.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '20 Honda NC750X DCT
2018 Goldwing Tour DCT Airbag
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Heidi character, (mini Schnauzer)!
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04-06-2018, 10:11 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: On the Road
Posts: 281
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Piper Pilot, yes aluminum is very repairable... 2 Stroker - reason why those radiators failed was due to a design failure by the Sacramento, CA manufacturers... Which was fixed YEARS ago...Think about this: you cannot get a copper brass radiator in any production car made! And if you get a Peterbilt, KW, Volvo, Cat, etc today you’re gonna most likely get Aluminum ; a very good reason for this! And all your CAC’s are made of aluminum also... And I also know that we all have our own opinions as to what is best and that’s OK with me...
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04-06-2018, 12:53 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Phoenix, Oregon
Posts: 2,207
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I wondered if newer MHs had the plastic tank aluminum clamp type radiators and it sounds like they do. IMHO, with info coming from a local radiator shop, the weak point on AL rads of that type are the aluminum tabs that hold the plastic tank in place. Removing the tank to repair a leak there requires bending the aluminum tabs holding it in place. They asked me, how many times did I think those tabs would flex before breaking or becoming unreliable? That was a pretty easy question to answer in my mind, I prefer solder and copper.
Always willing to learn I would ask, what is wrong with a copper brass radiator?
Steve
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04-06-2018, 01:40 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: On the Road
Posts: 281
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Nothing wrong with copper brass, IF that’s YOUR choice... Have been 2nd ( now 3rd generation) in the business, MY choice would be PTR ( Plastic Tank Radiator ) or all aluminum... Think about this for a minute: Why do all car manufacturers use PTR’s? And why did the radiator shop population decline in HUGE numbers after the introduction of *aluminum* PTR’s? Interesting fact is that 1st PTR’s had copper / brass cores that lasted about as long as a cold beer on a hot day...But please remember that we’re all different & have different wants, likes, desires & opinions... If you’re wanting copper brass I’m happy for you... Me, PTR...
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04-06-2018, 03:59 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuff-Happens
Why do all car manufacturers use PTR’s? And why did the radiator shop population decline in HUGE numbers after the introduction of *aluminum* PTR’s? Interesting fact is that 1st PTR’s had copper / brass cores that lasted about as long as a cold beer on a hot day...But please remember that we’re all different & have different wants, likes, desires & opinions... If you’re wanting copper brass I’m happy for you... Me, PTR...
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The manufacturers went to plastic tanks and aluminum cores because it was lighter and every ounce counts when you're trying to meet government fuel mileage standards.
Doesn't mean it's better.
And the radiator repair shops disappeared because the new radiators were disposable and not worth repairing.
I am not in the radiator business but I deal with 1000 gallon tanks under vacuum and pressure. We have a lot more corrosion problems with the aluminum tanks than we do with carbon steel tanks.
Furthermore, aluminum expands and contracts more with temperature change than steel, brass or copper.
__________________
1994 Fleetwood Bounder 32H
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04-06-2018, 05:47 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: On the Road
Posts: 281
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cabby.... ONE of SEVERAL reasons why manufacturers switched to aluminum PTR’s is weight savings... Not the sole reason... Environmental concerns about lead in radiators was another... Cost of materials another ( check the price of 1 pound/amount of aluminum against 1 pound/amount of copper brass )... Production costs another... Technical improvements another... Times change....
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04-06-2018, 06:42 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Oklahoma Boomers Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 621
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Mine was replaced with copper/brass some time ago. Jim E. OKC
__________________
Jim & Connie, Edmond Oklahoma
2000 Monaco Signature Classic FD/SO 42' / 1969 VW Bug or 2500HD
"My chains are gone, I've been set free"
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04-06-2018, 08:11 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuff-Happens
Nothing wrong with copper brass, IF that’s YOUR choice... Have been 2nd ( now 3rd generation) in the business, MY choice would be PTR ( Plastic Tank Radiator ) or all aluminum... Think about this for a minute: Why do all car manufacturers use PTR’s? And why did the radiator shop population decline in HUGE numbers after the introduction of *aluminum* PTR’s? Interesting fact is that 1st PTR’s had copper / brass cores that lasted about as long as a cold beer on a hot day...But please remember that we’re all different & have different wants, likes, desires & opinions... If you’re wanting copper brass I’m happy for you... Me, PTR...
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Do you see an advantage to PTR over an all aluminum welded tank radiator?
__________________
2002 DSDP 4097
2009 Jeep Liberty Toad
If you can't fix it with Duct tape, you must have an electrical problem
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