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Ron Everson · 03-05-2018, 09:01 PM

Can anyone tell me if the jack motor can be removed from the hydraulic module without having to remove the module? I've attached a picture that shows the motor with 2 through bolts that hold it to the module. I'm waiting for the RV Techs to get a new solenoid to go with the motor and am wondering how messy this replacement will be.

Thanks, Ron Everson
Cortez, Colorado
temporarily in Austin, Texas
2003 Bounder 37U
Freightliner chassis with Cummins 300 ISB

Waiter21 · 03-06-2018, 04:51 AM

Yes, maybe, On yours, it looks like you can get to the bolts and have room to work. You may not be able to remove the bolts from the motor, but as long as they are loses, you should be ok.

You will want to inspect the bearing and seat that will stay on the pump housing. The photos from my web site will help you see whats going on.

On mine, I dropped the entire pump/tank assembly because I didn't have room AND, I didn't know exactly what I was going to run into.

I did a short howto on my web site that has a lot of photos that may be helpful.

Leveler pump sounds like a food blender full of marbles – 1999 Southwind 35S

The solenoid is available for about $20 from Surplus Center up to $50 from Amazon (Links on my site)

Ron Everson · 03-14-2018, 07:09 AM

Here's the latest: technician replaced the motor and solenoid yesterday. Old motor was fried, and solenoid had failed. Jacks still don't go down. Now he thinks the pump is bad. Went back to the shop to order pump assembly. Will this never end? This has been going on for about 1.5 months.

Ron Everson

Waiter21 · 03-14-2018, 09:57 AM

Before I'd condemn the pump, remove one of the hoses from a jack and check to see if there is flow when the pump is running.

If the UP valve is stuck open, all the fluid that the pump is pushing out will just go back into the tank.. To test for a stuck UP valve, with the pump off, apply pressure to the hose that was removed. If it doesn't hold pressure, the UP valve is open. If it holds pressure, the UP valve is probably OK and the next step would be a pump.

You could also run the pump (jumper wire the solenoid) and see if its bogging down. i.e. run the pump, then, while its running, energize one of the down solenoids. You should hear a significant difference if the pump is OK.

Unfortunately, the only way to test the pump is to remove it. There really isn't anything in there to go bad, maybe the shaft seal or o-ring.. I though I had some photos of mine when I took it apart.

The photo here is the pump. The o-ring in the photo seals the pump against the valve body housing. If that o-ring were leaking you'd have hydraulic fluid all over the place..

However, if the shaft seal is leaking, fluid would go up past the shaft, and drain back into the tank through the little channel and the hole you see to the left of the shaft.. You need to pull the two pump halves apart and you'll see the shaft seal..

Ron Everson · 03-15-2018, 08:30 AM

The technician(s) made their decision after removing hoses at the pump manifold, running the pump, and getting nothing out. I was manning the controls up front, so I didn't actually see what was going on back there. At this point, I'm relying on their judgement on this. Another week to 10 days to get the pump assembly from Lippert. Hopefully, this will fix it and I can go somewhere.

Ron Everson