Preventive Maint.

[npx84]

I have been a mechanic most of my life on various levels, so am pretty handy when it comes to most stuff, but just bought my first DP. It is all foreign to me. Never owned a diesel, although this is my 3rd MH, so my question is this: I want to make sure the rig is all ready to go when we leave on our first trip in May. Most of our trips are going to be less than 200 miles away from home for now. But we will be going most every weekend. Other than checking the oil, air filter, etc.. What else do I need to do to make sure we have the best chance at a successful summer? I will be "working" while on the road playing music at various locations. The coach I bought is a 1997 Beaver Monterey 36ft with a 330 CAT. 80,000 miles. It was bought from Camping world by a friend of mine. They only owned it a week and he passed away from cancer. They drove it from Utah to WI with no problems. So we struck a deal to take it off her hands. I will be getting new tires before the trip. I can see mild cracks between the treads and don't want to chance it. I can't find the date code on them but I think they are passed their prime. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Or do I take it to a shop and have them "walk" me through all that needs to be done?
Thanks in advance,
Rich

[1doodadd]

Any Maintenance records? If not I would take oil samples of the engine oil and transmission oil. Everyone on here uses Blackstone labs. Youtube shows you how, make sure to take the samples when oil is HOT. https://www.blackstone-labs.com

Have your brakes checked out Also if you are in Need of a Person who Knows your coach for parts talk to Beaver Coach Sales 800 382 2597 and talk to Mike of Matt in parts dept. Great People


Schematic also for a year older coach 1996 but may also be of help

http://jexler.s3.amazonaws.com/safar...0InputDist.pdf

[TonyDi]

Glad to have you here in the forum with us. You're gonna like it here.

Even though you are a mechanic, it might be a good idea to get a certified RV mechanic to look over it and help you understand all the system and little tricks. If you are seeing cracks on the treads of the tires they need replacing.

Happy Trails!!!

[npx84]

Originally Posted by 1doodadd

Any Maintenance records? If not I would take oil samples of the engine oil and transmission oil. Everyone on here uses Blackstone labs. Youtube shows you how, make sure to take the samples when oil is HOT. https://www.blackstone-labs.com

Have your brakes checked out Also if you are in Need of a Person who Knows your coach for parts talk to Beaver Coach Sales 800 382 2597 and talk to Mike of Matt in parts dept. Great People

Thank you for the info. I know the oil and all filters changed by Camping World, but I haven't seen any oil testing. Good to know that the Beaver parts guys are around. Didn't know that seeing that the company is no longer. I will have the brakes checked when the tires are getting replaced. Good info!!

[npx84]

Originally Posted by TonyDi

Glad to have you here in the forum with us. You're gonna like it here.

Even though you are a mechanic, it might be a good idea to get a certified RV mechanic to look over it and help you understand all the system and little tricks. If you are seeing cracks on the treads of the tires they need replacing.

Happy Trails!!!

Thank you. I wanted someone to do a pre-purchase inspection when I bought it but couldn't find anyone locally to do that. I was in the aviation industry for a long time and that was standard when someone was buying an aircraft. I would love to have someone walk me through everything. There are a lot of systems for sure on this rig. Kind of overwhelming to say the least. like I said, tires are a must before the first trip. I can't believe Camping World let it go out of their lot with cracked tires. They saw these folks coming and took advantage of them in my opinion. There are Toyo tires on there right now. I guess that seems like a good brand??

[AITG]

One thing to check on that engine is the water pump belt-it's buried behind the main drive belt and the adjuster bolts screw into the aluminum cover.

[grindstone01]

I would also change all the fluids, coolant, steering, and trans oil. Inspect/replace the belts and just go over the the motor and power train in detail with a flashlight checking for any leaks/heavy rust/or broken parts.

[npx84]

Originally Posted by grindstone01

I would also change all the fluids, coolant, steering, and trans oil. Inspect/replace the belts and just go over the the motor and power train in detail with a flashlight checking for any leaks/heavy rust/or broken parts.

Thank you, I do have proof that all the fluids/filters were just changed before the sale. It has about 2000 miles on it since. So should be good there. Did kind of a quick look so far at things, and this coach is completely rust free. Almost scary how clean it is.

[chunker]

The DOT date code oval is only on one side of the tire and as luck would have it, usually on the inside. Flashlight and creeper needed to find them.

[jacwjames]

When I bought my rig in 2008 it came with ZERO records. It was a repo in Florida that we happened to find while driving my parents from Wisconsin to FL for winter. I too have a decent maintenance background and crawled all over the rig prior to purchase and tested every system. The coach itself was kept in good condition and was priced ~1/2 of comparable coaches so worth the risk.

First thing I did when I got it back to TN was take it to the local Cummins shop for a complete service and inspection including checking the computer for faults. This would give me a good baseline to start from. I knew the manager and knew he'd take care of me. When I went to pick it up he told me the rig was "cherry" and that I got a heck of deal.

That would be my suggestion to you, find a good shop that services motorhomes and have them do a complete service and inspection.

[Old Scout]

....clean air, clean fuel, and clean oil---everything else is pretty easy to work on. I can never understand the temptation to buy cheaper filters, cheap fuel or cheap oil. Same goes for genset maint.--in most cases, you are only changing these once per year, and in some cases, every 3-4 years--so why skimp? Hydraulic fluid system and air pressure system too--change fluid and filters in hydraulics and the desiccant cartridge in the air dryer, periodic dump of reserve air tank[s] to check for oil or water. Coolant change [both engine and genset] every 5 years. Wow--think that is about it [smile].....

[RV735]

npx84 Since you are not familiar with diesel operation one area that is often not checked are the air brakes. These systems are essential to safely operate the diesel motor home.

Below are listed MH brake system tests that should be done periodically to ensure safe air brake operation.

Motorhome air brake system testing
| |
by Jerry Fitzgerald

AIR GOVERNOR TEST
This test identifies the upper and lower limits of the air pressures. Start the engine and allow the air pressure to build up until it reaches its maximum and the compressor turns off (this should be no more than 130 pounds of pressure). You may hear the spitter valve pop when the maximum pressure is reached. Then depress the service (foot) brake several times. Each time you depress the service brake pedal the air pressure will go down and you can see the pressure go down on the air gauge. Wait about 2 seconds between each time you depress the brake pedal in order to see if the compressor restarts and the air gauge needles start going up again. Watch the air gauge and keep doing this until the compressor restarts. The compressor should restart at or above 85 pounds of air pressure. Now you know the maximum air pressure in your system and the air pressure where the compressor restarts. NOTE: There are two needles in the air gauge. One is for the front air tank and one is for the rear air tank. They should be close together, no more than 2-4 pounds apart. If they diverge too much it may indicate a problem with one of the air tanks.

STATIC BRAKE TEST
This test checks for leaks in the air tanks. Continuing from the AIR GOVERNOR TEST above, the air pressure should be at its maximum for this test. You should be stopped in a level position (block the wheels if it is not perfectly level). Place the automatic transmission in neutral (manual transmissions can be put in reverse gear), turn the engine off, keep your foot off the service brake, and release the parking brake. NOTE: Be sure the vehicle does not roll. Looking at the air pressure gauge, the air loss should not exceed 2 pounds in one minute.

APPLIED BRAKE TEST
This test checks for leaks in the air lines. Continuing from the STATIC BRAKE TEST above, depress the service brake pedal and keep it fully depressed for one minute. Watch the air gauge needles. After the air pressure has stabilized (the needles stop moving), the air loss should not exceed 3 pounds in one minute (tap the gauge occasionally). One caution, do not apply too much pressure on the service brake pedal.

LOW AIR WARNING DEVICE TEST
This test checks to see that the low air warning system is working. Continuing from the APPLIED BRAKE TEST above, turn ignition switch fully on but do NOT start the engine. Look at the air pressure gauge and continuously pump the service brake until you can see the warning light come on and/or hear the warning buzzer. If your buzzer sounds because of the low oil pressure switch, just look for the low air warning light to come on. The low air light should come on at pressures below 60 pounds. NOTE: If the low air warning light or buzzer comes on while you are driving, immediately move off the highway because soon after the low air warning comes on the emergency brake will be applied automatically and you will stop where ever you are at that time.

EMERGENCY BRAKE SYSTEM TEST
This test checks to see whether the parking brake applies automatically if the air pressure gets too low. Continuing from the LOW AIR WARNING DEVICE TEST above, turn off the ignition and continue to pump the service brake pedal until the parking brake handle pops up of its own accord. This should happen at pressures below 45 pounds. After it pops up, start the engine but do NOT touch the parking brake (it is on at this point). Try to SLOWLY drive the vehicle with the low air pressure warning on. The emergency brake is still on so it should hold you back.

EMERGENCY BRAKE TEST
This test checks whether the emergency brake works manually. Continuing from the EMERGENCY BRAKE SYSTEM TEST, keep the engine running and allow the air pressure to build up until it is at full pressure (the spitter valve will pop). Put the coach in Drive and release the parking brake. Drive the coach at about 5 miles per hour and apply the parking brake (not the service brake pedal). It should stop you fairly quickly.

CHECK SERVICE BRAKES
This test checks whether the service brakes are working and also whether they may need adjusting. Continuing from the EMERGENCY BRAKE TEST, drive the coach at about 5 miles per hour, loosely hold the steering wheel and apply the service brake pedal firmly to see whether the steering wheel pulls to the left or the right. If it pulls in either direction you may need to have your brakes adjusted. Furthermore, if you apply the service brake and the two needles on the air gauge move farther apart than their normal (small) divergence, this is an indicator that the brakes may need adjusting.

Safe travels and THE JOY IS IN THE RIDE

[windsorbill]

I didn't see any mention of batteries? Age, condition?

[OLYLEN]

Didn't read all the responses, see if air dryer has been serviced, you should be able to service it. Google tubes are your friend to see it done before hand. Radiator test strip to see ph or chance/flush. Go through all fluids if in fought, a little different but kinda like cars and pickups. Service exhaust brake activator, high temp grease. Check for water pump grease zert, once you find it on top of the water pump you may need to grind off one edge of the grease gun fitting a bit. Wet hubs on front, May or may not have. Fuel filters yearly and carry extra set, main and secondary on top of motor passenger side. Date of air filter two year recommended most go three. If anything isn't working 12 volt fuse panel front drivers side run bay. Ask questions in Monaco section owners you will get all the help you can take LOL

LEN