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Old 01-15-2017, 12:24 PM   #15
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Well first. IN ALL RV's there is a path. from the electrical Bay to inside, How else does power get inside the coach, Just follow the big black cable. unless they designed yours so you got to get dressed and go out in the rain to reset circuit breakers,, Then follow the smaller ROMEX wire into the RV.

On MY RV, when I finally sell off my Portable and buy a HW (or put the portable in storage as backup) The ATS is already inside, so the path is clear

Another course,,, actually used on my coach

You can usually go compartment to compartment follwing a cable bundle, this continues till you are in the WET bay, then you follow the plumbing up into the coach.
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Old 01-15-2017, 12:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montyhp View Post
Regarding using your ems display to monitor current draw. I strongly recommend a bogart engineering trimetric battery monitor. You get much more information that you really needto manage your battery bank

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk
EMS monitors 120vac Trimetric 12VDC

I do agree with you otherwise.
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Old 01-15-2017, 01:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
The display shows these things:

1) Voltage
2) Current
3) Frequency
4) Error code

There are two times when the information is useful inside the coach:

1) In summer, in a park when low voltages are common due to the number of air conditioners running
2) When an error cuts off 120 VAC in the middle of the night (especially if the weather outside is poor)

In contrast, the information is useful every time you plug the RV into 120 VAC for the first time at a site.

My opinion is that unless your RV sits a lot in one place, it's most helpful to have the display where you can see it after you plug in.

If this was a battery monitor, I'd say the display belongs inside the coach.

That all said, routing wires into an RV is not always as difficult as it seems.

I believe the PI unit you're considering can host two displays, with one active at a time. You could mount the display locally and add a remote later.

Note: The PI unit with the built-in display cannot have a remote display added to it.

I agree with the above, there just really isn't a need to watch the display all the time.

I mounted mine on the power bay door. This way when the door is open and I'm plugging in the power cord, I can see what it says.
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Old 01-15-2017, 01:58 PM   #18
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I mounted the 50 amp PI hardwired unit inside the coach below the main breaker box. Disconnected the feed to the breaker box and connected it to the input of the EMS and purchased a short piece to reconnect to the main breaker. LOTS of room to connect the wiring and stored slack below the breaker panel. Mounted the display above the breaker panel in the bedroom so can see the display and ran the wiring completely out of sight. Connecting at the breaker panel monitors the power from the pedestal as well as the generator when deployed. Have done a similar installation at the box feed on two coaches and like to be able to monitor all power. Good luck,
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:56 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by bobmac View Post
I mounted the 50 amp PI hardwired unit inside the coach below the main breaker box. Disconnected the feed to the breaker box and connected it to the input of the EMS and purchased a short piece to reconnect to the main breaker. LOTS of room to connect the wiring and stored slack below the breaker panel. Mounted the display above the breaker panel in the bedroom so can see the display and ran the wiring completely out of sight. Connecting at the breaker panel monitors the power from the pedestal as well as the generator when deployed. Have done a similar installation at the box feed on two coaches and like to be able to monitor all power. Good luck,
Exactly. I'm uploading the photo in the middle of my installation process. That is a piece of 1/8" plywood fastened to the back side of the bay, upon which the EMS is then mounted. I too take the output AFTER the transfer switch so I'm protected inside from both shore and generator power. You need 24-30 inches of extra cable when you do that.
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:33 PM   #20
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I have the remote display and it is mounted inside where I can see it. I can't think of any reason to mount it where you can't see it while inside. The whole point is to be able to monitor what is happening and then be able to take action if there is a problem. I don't want to go outside to a bay to see what the display says.
It comes in handy when you are showering. When display shows 3-5 amps then you know that the electric element has turned off and you are ready to go. When wife finishes I wait until I see 3-5 amps draw and then in I go. Of course I run both propane and electric on my water heater. Just my opinion you may feel different.
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Old 01-16-2017, 06:45 PM   #21
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When I first installed the surge guard I only had the one monitor. I mounted in a compartment than I can see when I plug in. Although it worked good for that purpose it didn't provide info while in the coach. I kept looking for the a second remote and found one for a good price and bought. I installed the selector switch next to the first monitor and routed the cable through the small compartment and then took it to the compartment under the bathroom. I mounted the second display on the bathroom vanity cabinet just under the countertop. Easy to see when sitting down

Since the display is on all the time it also provides a night light.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:44 PM   #22
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I mounted mine on the same section of wall the level indicators and a few other switches were mounted. I ran the wire up the inside of the wall and mounted the display, with a 3/8 inch hole (just barely large enough for a phone cord plug to pass thru) about half covered by the display. The cord comes out of the hole and makes the bend into the bottom of the display. You almost cannot see the hole.

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Old 01-17-2017, 08:50 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnJustice View Post
Exactly. I'm uploading the photo in the middle of my installation process. That is a piece of 1/8" plywood fastened to the back side of the bay, upon which the EMS is then mounted. I too take the output AFTER the transfer switch so I'm protected inside from both shore and generator power. You need 24-30 inches of extra cable when you do that.
This is not an argument, but the only problem with after the transfer switch is that the transfer switch gets sacrificed if a destructive problem occurs. While a generator can malfunction on the AC output, I believe that they are far and few between. There are upgraded surge protected transfer switches that will protect the entire coach if the generator is a concern.
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Old 01-17-2017, 10:08 AM   #24
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I have had the HW with remote in 2 coaches. One display in the power bay along with selector switch and the other up font with my EMS and ME-ARC. As others say, it is good to have it visible when connecting to the power pedestal.

In the first coach it was after the ATS and in this one before. I wish I had it after. Yes, it is relatively rare for a generator to fail in how it regulates power but they do.

I disagree with those that don't find value with the remote in the coach. Like someone else mentioned, being able to see voltage levels (especially as one changes from park to park) has value. I've been able to see how some parks really suffer as the day gets hotter. It also comes in handy when verify some systems are working. As an example, I can verify if the block heater is working and how much current it draws. It has also told me when the coach experienced a low voltage error a couple times when I was not there to see it. When on 30 amps it really becomes a tool to coordinate appliance use.

I agree, putting it after the ATS does increase the chance the ATS is sacrificed so I don't feel that mounting after the ATS is the holy grail...just my preference.

Running the remote is relatively easy in most cases. It just takes some time and tools to pull the cable
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Old 01-18-2017, 09:43 AM   #25
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This is not an argument, but the only problem with after the transfer switch is that the transfer switch gets sacrificed if a destructive problem occurs. While a generator can malfunction on the AC output, I believe that they are far and few between. There are upgraded surge protected transfer switches that will protect the entire coach if the generator is a concern.
Excellent point. I will be studying this issue. Easy enough to change it. I appreciate the opinion and input as I am new to the Class A MH -- or anything with an onboard generator for that matter.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:44 AM   #26
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Who makes the best surge protectors?
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:04 PM   #27
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The general opinion seems to be "the one I own".
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Old 01-21-2017, 01:18 PM   #28
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The general opinion seems to be "the one I own".
Or another thought...the one you use.

I only am aware of 2 major producers for the RV industry; Surge Guard and Progressive Industries. I've not felt that either brand is lacking in quality and customer support.
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