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Old 12-14-2016, 08:03 AM   #15
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What? did she put you on the couch again???? What did you do????


Winnies usually have a heated gray and black water compartments. I found with mine that my rear vents were not working because the furnace ducting Y was installed backwards. Sadly, it was in a impossible to reach location, so I had to partially plug off the vent in the tank compartment. Bathroom got warmer, bedroom got warmer, tanks still stay warm and when there is a tank spill it doesn't seep back through the ducting.


Mean while, stay off the couch!!!
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:35 AM   #16
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Thank you IMOB and Kiawah, I found Winnebago installed the 3" stack pipe for the black tank right threw the duct works between the bathroom and kitchen vent thus blocking the air flow by about 40%.
Shaking head back and forth........sometimes I really wonder how they do things like this.
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by fkempf216 View Post
Thank you IMOB and Kiawah, I found Winnebago installed the 3" stack pipe for the black tank right threw the duct works between the bathroom and kitchen vent thus blocking the air flow by about 40%. Not to smart of them I'd say. The duct work is about 4" X 8" and is all metal. I contacted the Winnebago service people and they refuse to talk about who's fault it was. As for a repair, I don't know of any way to reroute the stack vent pipe with out major destruction. So anyone who owns a Itasca Sunova 35G and has poor heat, I feel for you. I'd like to thank all the great folk's who contacted me to attempt to help us. Frank & Toni
" I contacted the Winnebago service people and they refuse to talk about who's fault it was" ?? Really? Who else's fault would it be?
If you have service records which imply someone else had worked on or modified the duct work in the coach I could almost understand Winnebago telling you that. Winnebago built the coach. THEY are responsible for the integrity of the build.
No doubt I will scratch a "W" off my next might want to own list.
Lynn

P.S. This should be sent over to the Winnebago owner's thread.
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Old 12-15-2016, 04:26 AM   #18
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I'd really like to see a pic of it?
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:24 AM   #19
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Thank you SBLIWEISS for your thoughts on an electric heater in the front but the RV is parked in my yard and on my electric bill. I guess my daughter will either have to buy some warm blankets or move in our house. lol
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:38 AM   #20
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Thanks IONFU, No, no couch. lol You have told me more info then I was able to get from the Winnie service people. I removed the wall in the passenger rear cabinet and the furnace as well as the furnace box only to see the metal duct work going from the furnace box to between the plywood flooring where the Styrofoam is and could also see the metal floor duct going threw the floor to heat the couch. As for the gray, fresh and black tanks being heated by the furnace I was unable to see that feed nor could I feel any heat coming anywhere to the tank area. However there is a opening in the flooring about 4" X 12" under the bed that goes to the tank area, is that where the tank's get their heat from? If so I can block some of that hole off to divert some of the heat into the floor heat duct work as you have suggested. Thank you Frank
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:45 AM   #21
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Dear LETMGROW. As you have suggested, I'd love to inform all the Winnebago Folk's about my find however being new the this forum I'm lucky to be able to talk to you guys and gals. Perhaps if you wouldn't mind posting this to the 'Winnebago Owners Thread for me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you Frank.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:48 AM   #22
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IONFU I'd love to take a pic of my mess I have and posting it but I'm not to good at this site when it comes to sending pic's. Heck I'm just happy being able to talk to you folks and being able to respond. lol
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:13 AM   #23
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"fkempf216".....Depending on where your heater is located, the units often have cutouts (unused duct openings) on the side of the heater. You might have space to use one of those cutouts and place an additional vent near the heater.

So......add some of the silver flexible ducting to an unused opening on the heater and route it to a spot near the heater where you can cut a round opening (like front of kitchen cabinet) and add a new vent.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:27 AM   #24
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I just had another thought on this. The vent pipe might be running through the splitter box on purpose. In the engineering it may have been necessary during cold times to heat the air in the pipe to keep a positive air flow and not allow sewer gases to back flow. This would/could be due to routing and sloping issues in the rig engineering.

Now with that said, or even if that is not the reason for the vent pipe, 40% blockage in a plenum box is not a big deal. BUT what may have happened is that a when the tech cut the holes out of the plenum box for the pipe he did not clear the scraps. NOW the scraps have aligned themselves to block the actual air flow in the ducts. I agree with what was said before... a camera snake might be your best bet.
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:59 AM   #25
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Dutch Star Don, Yes the furnace does have additional round duct knockouts as you have stated on the sides. However Winnie left the back of the furnace with the three knockouts off completely and butted the back of the furnace to the plenum going to the floor above. The entire area around the furnace is in the air return section of the bay and there is nowhere to feed a new heat feed to.
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:22 AM   #26
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IMOB Yes you are probably correct about heating the vent pipe to cause an air rise in the black tank vent, however what would make the air rise to the vent in the roof during the days when the heat is not on? I believe the Winnie engineers were told to use the black tanks that were left over from a previous model year and they did just that, I assume cutting the hole in the heater duct to allow the existing vent hole in the black tanks from a privious year was easier then rerouting the duct work. As for restricting the air flow, the floor duct is about 8" wide by 4" deep and the vent pipe adaptor is almost half of the duct. That's a lot of air flow restriction. I was told by the Winnie Service people that there are three, two inch holes drilled in the bottom sheet of plywood that heat the waste and fresh water tanks. I'm left with where is the rest of the air flow going? I crawled under the couch with a point and shot temperature scanner and found no warm air leaking from under the couch. I felt the floor of the couch and found the warm spots from the duct going to the front of the couch vents and found nothing unusual. At this point there is only three things I can do, one, start ripping up the floor to look for the air loss, which is out of the question or wait for someone to tear up their floor to tell me what they found. Yes the third is hope someone at Winnie can tell me where the heat flow is going. lol
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Old 12-16-2016, 02:19 PM   #27
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Heating Ducts

I recently noticed that little heat was coming from one of the 20K heaters. On Safari O5, they used flexible uninsulated duct. I was able to see the ducting by removing a couple of drawers and noticed that some of the ducting was long and was kinking. By shortening the duct, air flow was "improved" but still not overpowering. I have a "bore scope" that comes in handy since my old bones are not as flexible as they once were. Now when I get a new sail switch, I can maybe get the second furnace running.
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