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03-23-2019, 08:11 AM
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#15
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Blairsville, GA & WPB, FL
Posts: 3,993
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The OP has a diesel car so the amount of fuel he needs to transfer (unlike my 100 gallon tank in my PU with a 12V pump) is so small I would use a drill driven pump with plastic lines. Since it’s diesel, not gas, why make this more complicated than necessary for what??? 5 times/year...MAYBE.
For $20 you can buy one rated for fuel plus 2 old water hose ends...D for done.
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03-23-2019, 08:27 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 4,985
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My pickup truck has a 100 gal aux fuel tank in the bed with a 12V pump mounted under the frame rails to transfer fuel and a switch on the dash. When the pump went bad, I bought a replacement from the local auto parts store while on a trip and swapped it out in a parking lot.
When I upgraded the truck "Dually Depot" shipped me a new fuel fill tube with a welded nipple to hook the fuel transfer line to. Give them a call, they should be able to help you.
https://www.theduallydepot.com/auxiliary-fuel-tanks1
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03-23-2019, 08:30 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Citra, Florida
Posts: 1,396
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What about a length of plastic hose and the old fashion siphon method? A mouth full of gas or diesel never hurt anyone. All these methods using an electric drill or pump just add an increased danger factor and more things to set up and take down.
I would not consider a metal gas can on the ground with a plastic tube for pumping a good ground. I dont see any ground there at all. JMHO
__________________
Good Luck and keep us posted please. "Q"
1999 Newmar, Mountain Aire 3768, V-10, CAI, Headers.
"Spending our kids inheritance one trip at a time"
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03-23-2019, 08:50 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,152
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I'd imagine the OP is towing his diesel vehicle behind the RV. So he already has a grounding method. Just needs to drop the safety cables onto the ground when doing the fuel transfer.
I'd just try using a $10 hand pump with plastic tubing first to see if that would suit the situation. If not, I'd next go to the hand crank type for $155. I'd not bother with electric drills or pumps as that's just another system to mess with, with a potential for an accident. Slight potential with diesel, but still, I'd want to minimize that.
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03-23-2019, 06:51 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivylog
The OP has a diesel car so the amount of fuel he needs to transfer (unlike my 100 gallon tank in my PU with a 12V pump) is so small I would use a drill driven pump with plastic lines. Since it’s diesel, not gas, why make this more complicated than necessary for what??? 5 times/year...MAYBE.
For $20 you can buy one rated for fuel plus 2 old water hose ends...D for done.
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You are correct, my Toad is a diesel car. I think I am going to follow your advice and try not to over-complicate things. After reading the posts here I am definitely going to use some kind of grounding system.
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03-23-2019, 09:35 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 698
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Your “grounding system” can be nothing more than a piece of wire with alligator clips on both ends. Clip one end to ground on the coach (chassis battery negative post or somewhere on the frame) and clip the other end to the battery negative or the frame of the toad.
DONE.
This is how aircraft fuel trucks prevent static electricity from causing a problem when fueling aircraft from a truck.
You do not need heavy gauge wire for this because there will not be any current flow. 12, 14 or even 16 gauge wire is fine.
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03-24-2019, 10:16 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 5,635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Traveler
Your “grounding system” can be nothing more than a piece of wire with alligator clips on both ends. Clip one end to ground on the coach (chassis battery negative post or somewhere on the frame) and clip the other end to the battery negative or the frame of the toad.
DONE.
This is how aircraft fuel trucks prevent static electricity from causing a problem when fueling aircraft from a truck.
You do not need heavy gauge wire for this because there will not be any current flow. 12, 14 or even 16 gauge wire is fine.
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They also ground the fuel truck to the ground.
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS W20 - SOLD!
ReadyBrute Elite towing a 2017 Ford Edge Sport
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03-24-2019, 01:01 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quincy
What about a length of plastic hose and the old fashion siphon method? A mouth full of gas or diesel never hurt anyone.
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I think I have to call Donald on that one.
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03-24-2019, 01:07 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Blairsville, GA & WPB, FL
Posts: 3,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F4Gary
They also ground the fuel truck to the ground.
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Maybe at a major airport but in 50 years I’ve never seen that other than the static strap that the truck drags across the ground. Bid difference between a spark in gas fumes and one in diesel fumes.
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03-24-2019, 07:32 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivylog
Maybe at a major airport but in 50 years I’ve never seen that other than the static strap that the truck drags across the ground. Bid difference between a spark in gas fumes and one in diesel fumes.
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Exactly. Diesel fuel has no explosion risk.
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03-25-2019, 08:41 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F4Gary
They also ground the fuel truck to the ground.
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In 35 years of flying both piston and turbine aircraft (using gasoline and jet fuel) I have never seen this done. It isn't necessary. At busy general aviation airports, the fuel trucks (both gasoline and jet fuel trucks) drive all over the ramp to fuel aircraft. The only electrical connections made are between the trucks and the aircraft being fueled.
You are trying to prevent a static charge buildup between the two vehicles, not between the vehicles and ground. By connecting the ground side of the two vehicles together as I described in my previous post, you will prevent the buildup of a static charge between the vehicles.
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