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Old 02-16-2020, 07:00 AM   #1
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Pusher radiator removal

1999 Fleetwood Discovery diesel. Looking for a guide for removing the radiator. Did a search in the forums but so far can't find a good guide. I'm sure this has been covered. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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Old 02-16-2020, 05:14 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by jim427 View Post
1999 Fleetwood Discovery diesel. Looking for a guide for removing the radiator. Did a search in the forums but so far can't find a good guide. I'm sure this has been covered. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
You might try the fleetwood forum . My dad had a discovery befor tje bought the revolution I now own . Been a long time since I looked at one but seems it was similar to my revolution. I thought I was going to remove mine a couple years ago to clean in between it and the cac but figured a way to clean mine, even in between without removal but without going out and looking at mine I remember it was more than likely going to involve removing the rear fiberglass lower portion of the coach.
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Old 02-16-2020, 10:35 PM   #3
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Not sure what guide you are going to find...
Drain the coolant, Take off the hoses, Remove anything in the way (intercooler, transmission cooler, shroud, etc), remove the bolts, remove the radiator. Be aware it's going to be heavy so put a floor jack underneath and some boards on top of that to protect the radiator.

It's a "nuts and bolts" kind of repair. You just have to look and get er done.

Why do you have to remove it?
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Old 02-16-2020, 10:58 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jim427 View Post
1999 Fleetwood Discovery diesel. Looking for a guide for removing the radiator. Did a search in the forums but so far can't find a good guide. I'm sure this has been covered. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Well Jim,
I've done what you're asking, TWICE! The second time was, well, easier than the first time only because I was familiar with where all the fasteners were/are and, I knew just what tools I needed for a given section of the removal. Now, ours is an Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP. When I decided to remove ours for the first time, I was on my own. I'd been a DIY wrencher for decades and, while this kind of a job is a pain in the a..., it's merely a bit tougher to do than a regular front radiator vehicle.

All I did was examine, through the use of mirrors and flashlights etc. on what was holding that thing in there. So, I methodically started un-doing anything that looked like it held that radiator and CAC in place. A rear radiator pusher is a rear radiator pusher, no matter who put the box on the frame. The rear grill(s) may be somewhat different and some have better access to all the fasteners while others, make it a pain, right from the get-go.

In many D/P coaches, there's isolation valves in the heater lines that go forward. You can save yourself lots of grief by locating them and turning them OFF. Normally, they're 1/4 turn valves. That will save you a bit of time when it comes to refilling the system and, not having to put up with more air bubbles in your system than what you're gonna get anyways.

You'll have upper and lower radiator hoses, possibly a plastic over-flow-surge tank with hoses on it, and vent hoses to deal with. That overflow tank can be one serious pain to remove and replace, depending on design and coach builder. Here's a hint: TAKE A ZILLION PICTURES!

I took pictures of any and every angle I could to show the way fasteners were facing, what they held, hoses, clamps, brackets, ANYTHING that might help jog this ancient memory when it came time to put it all back together. Taking pics also helps you focus on areas/components/fasteners etc. that you might otherwise, not pay too much attention to.

And here's something that, depending on how much of a gorilla (being sarcastic here), in a very, very large percentage of D/P systems back there, the radiator IS SEPERATE from the CAC. That is, you DON'T HAVE TO TAKE THEM OUT AS A UNIT!!! The radiator that's in mine, and many as I believe, is encased in a steel frame, all the way around it, that DOES come out with it. That steel frame is what's used to attach brackets to, to secure that large radiator to the frame. And, in a case such as ours, where the securing bracket attaches to the radiator frame, that's also where the CAC attaches to the radiator frame. So, when you remove that bracket, it's possible that you will disconnect your CAC from your radiator too. You'll have to confirm this though.

Anyway, some radiators will drop out the bottom due to the rear coach grill/body configuration and some, like ours, will lift right out the back. One thing to really take into account here is, the fan shroud screws. If yours is anywhere near the configuration and application as ours, you'll have at least 2-4 screws up top, right at the edge of the fan shroud and, you'll have around 4 at the bottom. The ones on top are a piece of cake. The ones holding the bottom, can be a nightmare to not only remove but, get back in there.

Anyway, hope at least some of this helps. I won't say it's an easy job because it surely isn't. But, it's really not all that hard either. All you have to do is, turn yourself into a PREZTLE to get to many of the fasteners and, you'll be good. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 02-17-2020, 05:44 AM   #5
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Your Radiator Lifts Out

Hi Jim:

We had to swap the radiator in a previous coach, a 1998 Discovery, which had the same power plant layout as your 1999 version. We did not DIY, so I can't speak to the preparation and connections; those points seem to have been adequately covered by other respondents.

What I can tell you is that the radiator has to be lifted up through the bed hatch and carried out through the coach. I'm pretty sure that will be a two person job, at least.

Good luck!
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Old 02-17-2020, 02:55 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Darin1960 View Post
You might try the fleetwood forum . My dad had a discovery befor tje bought the revolution I now own . Been a long time since I looked at one but seems it was similar to my revolution. I thought I was going to remove mine a couple years ago to clean in between it and the cac but figured a way to clean mine, even in between without removal but without going out and looking at mine I remember it was more than likely going to involve removing the rear fiberglass lower portion of the coach.
Darin1960
Where is the Fleetwood forum. On this site or a different one. Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2020, 02:58 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Dav L View Post
Not sure what guide you are going to find...
Drain the coolant, Take off the hoses, Remove anything in the way (intercooler, transmission cooler, shroud, etc), remove the bolts, remove the radiator. Be aware it's going to be heavy so put a floor jack underneath and some boards on top of that to protect the radiator.

It's a "nuts and bolts" kind of repair. You just have to look and get er done.

Why do you have to remove it?
DAV L I was hoping to find someone that has done this on my particular type of coach so I'd know if it comes out the back or from the inside, etc.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Well Jim,
I've done what you're asking, TWICE! The second time was, well, easier than the first time only because I was familiar with where all the fasteners were/are and, I knew just what tools I needed for a given section of the removal. Now, ours is an Itasca Horizon 36GD with the CAT C-7 330HP. When I decided to remove ours for the first time, I was on my own. I'd been a DIY wrencher for decades and, while this kind of a job is a pain in the a..., it's merely a bit tougher to do than a regular front radiator vehicle.

All I did was examine, through the use of mirrors and flashlights etc. on what was holding that thing in there. So, I methodically started un-doing anything that looked like it held that radiator and CAC in place. A rear radiator pusher is a rear radiator pusher, no matter who put the box on the frame. The rear grill(s) may be somewhat different and some have better access to all the fasteners while others, make it a pain, right from the get-go.

In many D/P coaches, there's isolation valves in the heater lines that go forward. You can save yourself lots of grief by locating them and turning them OFF. Normally, they're 1/4 turn valves. That will save you a bit of time when it comes to refilling the system and, not having to put up with more air bubbles in your system than what you're gonna get anyways.

You'll have upper and lower radiator hoses, possibly a plastic over-flow-surge tank with hoses on it, and vent hoses to deal with. That overflow tank can be one serious pain to remove and replace, depending on design and coach builder. Here's a hint: TAKE A ZILLION PICTURES!

I took pictures of any and every angle I could to show the way fasteners were facing, what they held, hoses, clamps, brackets, ANYTHING that might help jog this ancient memory when it came time to put it all back together. Taking pics also helps you focus on areas/components/fasteners etc. that you might otherwise, not pay too much attention to.

And here's something that, depending on how much of a gorilla (being sarcastic here), in a very, very large percentage of D/P systems back there, the radiator IS SEPERATE from the CAC. That is, you DON'T HAVE TO TAKE THEM OUT AS A UNIT!!! The radiator that's in mine, and many as I believe, is encased in a steel frame, all the way around it, that DOES come out with it. That steel frame is what's used to attach brackets to, to secure that large radiator to the frame. And, in a case such as ours, where the securing bracket attaches to the radiator frame, that's also where the CAC attaches to the radiator frame. So, when you remove that bracket, it's possible that you will disconnect your CAC from your radiator too. You'll have to confirm this though.

Anyway, some radiators will drop out the bottom due to the rear coach grill/body configuration and some, like ours, will lift right out the back. One thing to really take into account here is, the fan shroud screws. If yours is anywhere near the configuration and application as ours, you'll have at least 2-4 screws up top, right at the edge of the fan shroud and, you'll have around 4 at the bottom. The ones on top are a piece of cake. The ones holding the bottom, can be a nightmare to not only remove but, get back in there.

Anyway, hope at least some of this helps. I won't say it's an easy job because it surely isn't. But, it's really not all that hard either. All you have to do is, turn yourself into a PREZTLE to get to many of the fasteners and, you'll be good. Good luck.
Scott
FIRE UP Thanks for the info. Although I've spent my life turning wrenches on anything I've ever owned, this is my first big diesel project. So some of the terms I hear are new to me. Such as CAC. What is that? I'm trying to assertain if the radiator comes out the back, or if it goes through the interior. Haven't started tear down yet, just tying to get an idea what I'm up against.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:07 PM   #9
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DAV L I was hoping to find someone that has done this on my particular type of coach so I'd know if it comes out the back or from the inside, etc.
DAV L To answer your question, I'm considering removing it because it recently sprang a small leak. I put some K-Seal in it to see if it helps, but I'm not sure yet as I haven't been anywhere since I put it in.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by TomAndPeg View Post
Hi Jim:

We had to swap the radiator in a previous coach, a 1998 Discovery, which had the same power plant layout as your 1999 version. We did not DIY, so I can't speak to the preparation and connections; those points seem to have been adequately covered by other respondents.

What I can tell you is that the radiator has to be lifted up through the bed hatch and carried out through the coach. I'm pretty sure that will be a two person job, at least.

Good luck!
Thanks, that's one thing I'm trying to figure out. I was hoping it would be removed from the rear access door. Should have known.
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Old 02-17-2020, 05:31 PM   #11
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CAC = Charge Air Cooler
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:09 PM   #12
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FIRE UP Thanks for the info. Although I've spent my life turning wrenches on anything I've ever owned, this is my first big diesel project. So some of the terms I hear are new to me. Such as CAC. What is that? I'm trying to assertain if the radiator comes out the back, or if it goes through the interior. Haven't started tear down yet, just tying to get an idea what I'm up against.

"CAC"
As has been answered, CAC stands for Charge Air Cooler. Your diesel engine is fed PRESSURIZED air that is pressurized by the TURBO. When air is pressurized, it rises in temperature. NOT GOOD for basic diesel engine combustion. So, it needs to be cooled down as much as possible before it enters the combustion chamber. It is cooled by the CAC. It's basically a radiator for AIR.

Basically, you have TWO radiators back there. One is for your coolant and one, for the turbo air. As your engine runs, the GIANT fan on the front of it, pushes a ton of air through both radiators. Different manufacturers do things differently. That is, some will *Stack* the CAC on top of the regular radiator while others, like ours, is parked directly in front of the regular radiator.

As for how yours is built or, situated, I can't make that call. I think it's been answered. If you've been wrenching as long as you say, this will be just another job, a bit LARGER, but, none the less, just another job. OH, by the way, if you want to answer multiple folks, and quote them, all in one post, all you have to do is, at the bottom of their answer you'll see:

Quote...…...Multi+...….Quick...….Thanks

just click on *Multi+*. Each person that you click on the Multi+ at the bottom, will be added to your *Post Reply*. You can *Multi+* 2,3, 4 or, as many as you desire. Then, all you have to do is, answer each quote to your satisfaction. Good luck with your radiator situation.
Scott
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Old 02-18-2020, 03:55 PM   #13
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This type of job is what an air ratchet is ideal for to get at bolts in inconvenient to swing places.
Get Er Done!
BTW...are you sure the leak is the radiator and not a hose fitting? Hoses and clamps are MUCH more likely. And, NEVER put crap in the coolant system to clog leaks. Not sure what K-Seal is, but it doesn't sound good...
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Old 02-20-2020, 01:04 AM   #14
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CAC Question

Don't know if anyone else said this but CAC is a fancy way to say "intercooler"...
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