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Old 01-22-2023, 06:34 PM   #1
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Putting Hardwood Flooring in my Kountry Star

Well here goes my 2nd post in 10 years but only a few months after my first one. I read this forum for hours per week but never really post my projects even though I do a lot and always do it myself. Anyway, the PO had someone put in a floating LVP floor and it was very poorly done. I hope they didn't pay much for the install. I did a floating LVP in my previous Class A and even though it turned out well it was never perfect enough for me. The joints wouldn't stay together and they popped and crackled when the slide came in. So this time I am doing engineered hardwood and gluing it down. That decision mostly came from studying Ernie E's work and even looking at hundreds of his photos outside of this forum. I already have the demo done, so now I am just cleaning up around the edges while waiting on the flooring to come in. I will get you up to speed with some pics in the following posts. Here is the before pic.
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Old 01-22-2023, 06:40 PM   #2
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Here are some shots of the demo. Whoever did the LVP was either too lazy or scared to take out the faux tile so they just built cardboard (yeah really sturdy) ramps and then put the LVP right over the tile. Then they put down 3/8 plywood over the rest of the subfloor to bring the level up fairly close to the tile. So needless to say that all this crap had to come out.
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Old 01-22-2023, 06:47 PM   #3
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More demo and the painful curve at the entry. My plan is to put a 3/8 plywood underlayment in the entry area to make the 3/8 engineered hardwood come out flat with the Corian trim around the top of the steps. Then I will use the big 12in x 32in carpet shims to taper the 3/8 underlayment down to the original subfloor.
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Old 01-22-2023, 07:07 PM   #4
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Big job! Are you getting rid of the carpet in the slides?
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Old 01-23-2023, 04:43 AM   #5
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Big job! Are you getting rid of the carpet in the slides?
We are just replacing the carpet on the main slide and around one side of the bed with new carpet. My wife loves that the slideout is flush to the floor when its out and you can't do that with hardwood. The main slide is mostly covered by the couch so it doesn't bother me for it to be carpet.
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Old 01-23-2023, 05:19 AM   #6
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I installed the same thing your installing about 8 years ago in my 2003 Dutch Star.

One of the tips from Ernie was to butter each plank with the adhesive instead of applying the adhesive to the floor.

Also, I worked from the front towards the back and spent a lot of time getting the flooring perfect against the walls and cabinets. Only to discover farther back in the coach Newmar installed the walls over the carpet. So when I cut the carpet out and installed the hardwood I had to use shoe molding to cover the gap. I ended up installing shoe molding in the front so it matched.

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Old 01-23-2023, 01:30 PM   #7
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Jeff, thanks for the heads up. Yeah I noticed that Ernie was back buttering also, so that was my planned technique. I am also planning to work from the entry steps corian border toward the back. I hope to not need any quarter round trim but I already see some areas where the wall or cabinets are a little curved or wavy. I also noticed the carpet under the bedroom cabinet walls. The build techniques of these things never cease to "amaze/disappoint" me.

Cannon
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Old 01-23-2023, 04:53 PM   #8
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I'm watching with extreme interest as I would love to replace the carpet in the main part of the coach and replace with real tile, but I'm not sure how tile will do in a vehicle? Will my grout crack all over the place? I will leave the carpet on both of the slides as very little of it is visible/usable.

My biggest concern will be trying to get the carpet out that goes under each slide? How can I get to all of it? I'm assuming it goes well under the slides, even when they are out?

Also, how difficult was it to remove the seats?

Thanks,

Randy
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Old 01-23-2023, 07:45 PM   #9
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I just replaced my carpet with LVP. I also struggled with the complication with the slide and the trouble it can cause. I did go with an extreme scratch resistant plank and one that tested well with the the durability on the click lock joints. Researching the locking system in any plank is as important as the surface durability, when it comes to slides. Anyway, the floor is floating but I did glue the first row of plank that meet the slide, with a silicone adhesive, Not sealant. We will see if that is the ticket. Strong bonding with some flex is the goal for me.

Good luck on your install let us know how it hold up.
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Old 01-24-2023, 06:53 PM   #10
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I'm watching with extreme interest as I would love to replace the carpet in the main part of the coach and replace with real tile, but I'm not sure how tile will do in a vehicle? Will my grout crack all over the place? I will leave the carpet on both of the slides as very little of it is visible/usable.

My biggest concern will be trying to get the carpet out that goes under each slide? How can I get to all of it? I'm assuming it goes well under the slides, even when they are out?

Also, how difficult was it to remove the seats?

Thanks,

Randy
Hey Randy. I have similar questions/concerns about carpet under the slide. I didn't remove the carpet so I can't really speak to it, but there are a couple small pieces under the slide at the corner that I have left alone for fear of screwing something up. My slideout didn't fully seat into the recess at the top and I believe it was because of the 3/8 plywood underlayment with 7 or 8 mm LVP on top of it. I guess I will see soon.

Pulling the seats out is a breeze. There are 4 nuts that hold the slides to the seat, one wiring connector and and the cable that allows the seat to rotate. Takes all of 5 minutes to take out the seat. Its harder to carry them out the door than anything else.
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Old 01-25-2023, 10:59 AM   #11
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Hey Randy. I have similar questions/concerns about carpet under the slide. I didn't remove the carpet so I can't really speak to it, but there are a couple small pieces under the slide at the corner that I have left alone for fear of screwing something up. My slideout didn't fully seat into the recess at the top and I believe it was because of the 3/8 plywood underlayment with 7 or 8 mm LVP on top of it. I guess I will see soon.

Pulling the seats out is a breeze. There are 4 nuts that hold the slides to the seat, one wiring connector and and the cable that allows the seat to rotate. Takes all of 5 minutes to take out the seat. Its harder to carry them out the door than anything else.
Thanks! And keep the updates coming

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Old 01-26-2023, 07:25 PM   #12
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Well too long of a wait for the flooring means the DW come up with new ideas. Now we are painting the base cabinets in the kitchen. Scrubbing with TSP, light sanding, spraying high dollar primer then spraying with good paint means a lot of fun.
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Old 01-29-2023, 04:52 PM   #13
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Wow, even more work!!!
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Old 01-29-2023, 06:34 PM   #14
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Jeff, thanks for the heads up. Yeah I noticed that Ernie was back buttering also, so that was my planned technique. I am also planning to work from the entry steps corian border toward the back. I hope to not need any quarter round trim but I already see some areas where the wall or cabinets are a little curved or wavy. I also noticed the carpet under the bedroom cabinet walls. The build techniques of these things never cease to "amaze/disappoint" me.

Cannon
All manufactures put flooring down on a flat floor prior to any walls. It does not matter carpet or what ever. They build on top of it. The labor cost to do otherwise is cost prohibitive.
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