Community Forums

CountryB · 12-24-2021, 11:37 AM

I'm thinking about painting the roof on my Coach. It's not that bad, but after 15 years, I think it may be smart preventative maintenance. The white paint (or gelcoat) has some oxidation.

I've washed the roof and lightly wet sanded it (to remove oxidation, stains and scuffs) - and now I'm trying to decide between just waxing it or painting it. This would be the time to paint (If I'm going to) since I sent so much time prepping/cleaning the roof.

So, my question to those of you that have done this:

1) Did you lightly sand the roof before painting? If yes, what grit?

2) what product (i.e. Boat Topside paint)? The products (like Alexseal polyurethane Topcoat) would cost around $400-500 (for the topcoat, converter, and reducer). https://www.alexseal.com/exterior/topcoats

2) Did you apply any primer?

3) Did you paint over or around the Dicor sealant and roof mounted equipment (AC units, vents, etc.), or did you remove everything (or anything) from the roof before painting?

jacwjames · 12-24-2021, 01:35 PM

I used Rustoleum Topside paint from Lowes, 2 quarts $17.28 a quart.

I taped the perimeter and sanded with 100 grit lightly, I used a pole/pad so it went pretty fast.

I did not prime.

I did paint over of the other sealants. I used a ~6" foam roller on a pole for a bulk of the painting, tight places I used a foam type brush. Went pretty fast. I did 2 coats.

I did this ~6 months ago so the jury is still out on how it will hold up but for now still looks good.

CountryB · 12-25-2021, 08:28 AM

Thanks for the info Jim.
I only want to do this job once - so I'm wondering if the Rustoleum Topside paint (alkyd) is the better choice (because it's cheaper) over the Alexseal (polyurethane) paint (which is tougher).

I'm not taking my Coach to sea so maybe I don't need all the extra (salt water) protection at double the price.

Did the Rustoleum Topside paint flow out nicely (any brush/roller marks visible)?

Roy-c · 12-25-2021, 10:11 AM

It isn't only the salt that the 2 part epoxy resists. The constant sun exposure is much harder on paint. That is what dulls the shine and can make the paint chalky. We have dealt with painting our boats for years. There is really no comparison between the one part polyurethanes and the 2 part epoxy paints.You will get many more trouble free years from the epoxy. One word of caution on painting the roof, especially with the epoxy, is that it will be incredibly slippery, especially wet. I would mix a non skid grit in with the paint on any walking surfaces.
As with any paint job surface preparation is 90% of the job. Go online and get the particulars from the manufacturer of whatever paint you decide on and follow their procedures. They know how to best apply their product and have a vested interest in you being pleased with the results.

jacwjames · 12-25-2021, 10:30 AM

Here's a picture of the roof, the paint flowed pretty even. Overall there was minimal evidence I used a roller, a couple of places but overall pretty smooth.

Not sure on the value of using a 2 part epoxy versus just the Topside time will tell. I know working with a 2 part product can be tricky, very dependent on temp, humidity, sun/shade etc. Once you start you have to move pretty quick.

Using the small pressure washer with the rotary head made cleaning the roof very easy, even working around the solar panels. If the Topside paint last 4-5 years and I have to redo it wouldn't be a problem. Note though that I have a garage to work in and access to the roof is as easy as walking across a 6' ramp from the roof my my workshop to the coach. I did pull the coach outside to pressure wash the roof. I might change my tune in 5 years!!!

Jim_HiTek · 12-25-2021, 10:31 AM

How long are you going to own the coach? Let that be your guide to either wax or paint.

I like the looks of my roof when it's washed and waxed and since it's already 19 years old, my RV is already in that age area where some RV park owners look at it carefully before allowing me to stay. My paint and decals look good because I've had some of it painted down in Mazatlan, and I'd put money into that before I'd do anything special to the roof. I do the standard preventative maintenance to the roof of course.

I don't think going to the expense of a couple thousand for a roof treatment would be worth it. IMO. So, I vote to just wax it. Put your money into a paint job down in Mexico next year.

Here's what it looks like after waxing:

Bill Gail · 12-25-2021, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roy-c

It isn't only the salt that the 2 part epoxy resists. The constant sun exposure is much harder on paint. That is what dulls the shine and can make the paint chalky. We have dealt with painting our boats for years. There is really no comparison between the one part polyurethanes and the 2 part epoxy paints.You will get many more trouble free years from the epoxy. One word of caution on painting the roof, especially with the epoxy, is that it will be incredibly slippery, especially wet. I would mix a non skid grit in with the paint on any walking surfaces.
As with any paint job surface preparation is 90% of the job. Go online and get the particulars from the manufacturer of whatever paint you decide on and follow their procedures. They know how to best apply their product and have a vested interest in you being pleased with the results.

X2 on the epoxy paints .

A good marine 2 part epoxy is UV resistant , never needs waxing and will flex with the fiberglass and not crack.

As mentioned in prior post , preparation is the key to a quality , long lasting finish.

If you decide to not add grit to the paint , one option are self adhesive walking pads the roofing industry uses , another option is to purchase a good set of boating Deck Shoes .

Dawgs · 12-25-2021, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacwjames

I used Rustoleum Topside paint from Lowes, 2 quarts $17.28 a quart.

I taped the perimeter and sanded with 100 grit lightly, I used a pole/pad so it went pretty fast.

I did not prime.

I did paint over of the other sealants. I used a ~6" foam roller on a pole for a bulk of the painting, tight places I used a foam type brush. Went pretty fast. I did 2 coats.

I did this ~6 months ago so the jury is still out on how it will hold up but for now still looks good.

I did the same but did use Rustoleum primer. Paint can be thinned and works well with ordinary roller and brush. Been 3-4 years now but coach is garaged.

CountryB · 12-25-2021, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roy-c

It isn't only the salt that the 2 part epoxy resists. The constant sun exposure is much harder on paint. That is what dulls the shine and can make the paint chalky. We have dealt with painting our boats for years.

There is really no comparison between the one part polyurethanes and the 2 part epoxy paints. You will get many more trouble free years from the epoxy.

What manufacturer/brand epoxy paint did you use on your boat (or RV)?

Rob_M · 12-25-2021, 03:58 PM

Not paint but I’m considering this coating. Following this thread.

Henry Tropi-Cool roof coating
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/henry-tropi-cool-roof-coating-335966.html

nehog · 12-25-2021, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CountryB

...
1) Did you lightly sand the roof before painting? If yes, what grit?

2) what product (i.e. Boat Topside paint)? The products (like Alexseal polyurethane Topcoat) would cost around $400-500 (for the topcoat, converter, and reducer). https://www.alexseal.com/exterior/topcoats

2) Did you apply any primer?

3) Did you paint over or around the Dicor sealant and roof mounted equipment (AC units, vents, etc.), or did you remove everything (or anything) from the roof before painting?

1. No, I did not sand. I cleaned carefully with a stiff brush, and double rinsed to make sure there was no contamination however.

2. No primer. Rustoleum Topside (white, of course) over the white roof. I'd use the same for the next time I do the roof, too.

3. Painted over most of it. Used a roller, made the job easy. A brush used around some small stuff too.

Entire project took me about half a day (couple of hours cleaning, then later after dry, an hour or two to paint. Careful: don't let that paint run down the side of your RV like I did! I had paint run down two down spots that I had to clean up and it was not easy to do.

Dav L · 12-25-2021, 07:48 PM

Before paint (just about any paint), Power wash to get all the grit / leaves / branches / insects off. Then use 240 dry sandpaper to take down soiled / stained areas, followed by 400 wet sand. 100 grit is too much. Ideally use a DA air sander with the 240 to make this easy. Hand sanding takes a long time. You are really just cleaning and taking the gloss off for paint. You are not trying to remove material unless there are gelcoat lumps etc.

If you don't sand, and there is gloss, the paint will peel. Just a matter of time.

If you are painting auto paint, then definitely prime. Any other, read the product instructions, but prime is generally the best long term strategy. Ensure you are using a prime that is compatible with the top coat system.

153stars · 12-25-2021, 11:26 PM

Google what lower cost hardener to add to the Rustoleum topside , its been done and it works ,from what I have read Valspar seems popular at 16 to 1. Old Dupont Centari didn't need hardener but was far better with it.

Jake21 · 12-26-2021, 07:59 AM

I went with Buskote last July. Rented a pressure washer from HD one day, primed the next and put one coat per day the next three days. Rolled it on. Went on easy and fast. Used blue painters tape around the edges and such. Very happy with the results and the support from nationwide.

I did not remove anything from the roof.

https://www.nationwidecoatings.com/pl/bus-kote