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Old 05-07-2021, 03:45 PM   #1
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Ramp Type Leveling Blocks

Looking for some three level ramps that will support a Class A motorcoach. Found these (and similar) on Amazon but some comments say not robust enough for class A weight. Anyone found some with a 4+ inch lift that will support a class A without self collapsing? Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...3J6YCQ7P&psc=1
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Old 05-07-2021, 05:12 PM   #2
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Ramp Type Leveling Blocks

I made my own using two 2x6’s and one 2x4. First one is 4 feet long, 2nd 3 feet long and 3rd is 2 feet long. I added stop blocks the prevent the next layer sliding. I can use 1, 2 or all three. Sorry that I cannot send a picture.
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Old 05-07-2021, 06:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueWanderer View Post
Looking for some three level ramps that will support a Class A motorcoach. Found these (and similar) on Amazon but some comments say not robust enough for class A weight. Anyone found some with a 4+ inch lift that will support a class A without self collapsing? Thanks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...3J6YCQ7P&psc=1
I totally agree, those are not robust enough. They tilt while you drive over them.

You don't have jacks?
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:39 PM   #4
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I totally agree, those are not robust enough. They tilt while you drive over them.

You don't have jacks?
Leveling jacks are NOT to support the RV while underneath! There are many recorded instances of this resulting in death.
Solid wood ramps are the most dependable and safest method of lifting a vehicle of any weight.Yes solid wooden ramps are heavy and big, but they do not collapse.

I have 2 12,000# plastic ramps for my pickup but would never consider driving our MH up on them for working underneath.
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:51 PM   #5
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Clarification on my request. Just looking for ramps to help level in extreme slopes so wheels will not be lifted off ground by leveling jacks. Not using them for undercoach access.
Looking at fabricating from wood but hoping a commercial lighter and less bulky solution may exist. Thanks
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Old 05-08-2021, 08:21 AM   #6
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You would need 2 sets for use in the rear for the duallys for each wheel. I wonder about them sinking in the ground when you drive up on them, with the corner supporting the full weight until you can get the 2nd wedge installed. Good on concrete, dirt I don't see them working.
I just bought a couple 2x10 and cut to 2' lenghts to cover the rear wheels spread, and stack to get my needed height. I do have to have enough to make a ramp when more than 2 are needed. Once I get the wheels to the height needed, then the 'ramps' are rededicated to under the jacks. The weight, size and abilty to hose off the plastic wedges are really nice though.
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Old 05-08-2021, 04:38 PM   #7
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I always have extra and 4x4 & 6x6 chuncks I can make a step out of.
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Old 05-08-2021, 05:55 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Leveling jacks are NOT to support the RV while underneath! There are many recorded instances of this resulting in death.
Solid wood ramps are the most dependable and safest method of lifting a vehicle of any weight.Yes solid wooden ramps are heavy and big, but they do not collapse.

I have 2 12,000# plastic ramps for my pickup but would never consider driving our MH up on them for working underneath.
Your absolutely correct about not using jacks to raise coach to work under it. I never said, nor would I encourage anyone, to use jacks to lift a coach to work underneath. It's just not safe.

The link the OP referenced would accomplish what wooden blocks would do. Just a smaller foot print while stored away. They would only level the coach if they encountered an off-level campsite. I don't think they would be a good alternative for wooden ramps if someone was wanting to work under the coach.
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:46 PM   #9
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I had some plastic leveling blocks for my trailer. I tried them with out MH. They sometimes worked, but after the second one crushed. I gave up on them. I made blocks from 2x10's

If you make blocks out of wood. You need them wide enough to span the tire tread. If you are using a 2x6 (5 1/2) on my MH that would only fit under the center of the tread. This is not good. You will be carrying the weight in the center and putting stress on the belts were they connect to the side walls. The tire manufactures recommend to use blocks that are at least the full width. And on dual have blocks under both..

I mainly use my blocks when leveling and I have to jack up the rear so the tires would come off the ground. Since the parking brakes only apply to the rear. I block up the rear tires so they rest on the blocks.
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Old 05-10-2021, 09:02 PM   #10
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I bought 4 Camco Super Tri-Levelers and they work great on my Fleetwood Discovery. They are lighter and easier to clean than wooden ramps.

Here's an Amazon link for reference. I bought mine from Gander as they were less expensive than Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Lev.../dp/B07ZHQ1K8S

Make sure you look at the "SUPER" version Tri-Levelers and not the regular Tri-Levelers as the SUPER has a higher weight rating at 10,000 pounds each.
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Old 05-11-2021, 09:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Morgan View Post
I bought 4 Camco Super Tri-Levelers and they work great on my Fleetwood Discovery. They are lighter and easier to clean than wooden ramps.

Here's an Amazon link for reference. I bought mine from Gander as they were less expensive than Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Tri-Lev.../dp/B07ZHQ1K8S

Make sure you look at the "SUPER" version Tri-Levelers and not the regular Tri-Levelers as the SUPER has a higher weight rating at 10,000 pounds each.
I looked at those, but found it interesting that their website shows them fitting a compact SUV sized tire ok, while the motorhome picture shows a small 225/75 R16 tire needing to span two levels. I personally didn’t want my tires sitting on that ridge between levels while bearing the front axle weight. Just something to consider.
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